scouk

Nah my lights were regular JDM ones but I modified the back cover to accept the HID bulb.. Had to cut a larger hole in the back of the cover to accomodate the bulb connectors but no biggy.. Just important to make sure it's properly sealed agein afterwards. Some sort of sealant liek tiger seal (window sealant) should help... Yeah as long as the ballasts have the correct connectors for the car harness you should be fine!

Generally speaking car insurance has taken a hike upwards the last 12 months or so! Many peoples insurance going up the past year, some able to haggle/compare their way back to previous years prices but not many people are saving this year... .. YOur defiantely not alone... But worth shopping around..

At a guess you'll be missing the HiD ballast.. Small fag packet sized box with connectors which link up existing bulb wiring to the HID bubs. HiD's are very high voltage and need the ballast in order to work.. See here: http://forums.sidc.co.uk/index.php?showtop...p;#entry1216693

N1 WRC has always been that.. (1996 WRC Manufacturers Championchip car) and L555 BAT has always been that.. (1995 Driver championship car) For the first photo they probably simpyl slung the L555 BAT plate for show, as more peopel woudl recognise that plate rather than N1 WRC. Prodrive kept a hold of N1 WRC and colin got L555 BAT Off topic bit - Spotted 'S55 BAT' on a car yesterday! silver Vauxhall Vectra

Last I known location was Cathy (Midnight21). She kindly took it down the road after Alford!

Another vote for the full kit.. Just finishes it off nicely... I know it'd cost more but it'd really finish it off. .. Maybe worth tryign to see about a midpoint.. The rear door needed somethign extra from your initial design, looked too plain.. Having said that, I think because were used to the full style, nothign less woudl do... as for easy removal.. I wouldn't fancy picking all those little DC logos off hte doors one by one

really gutted to have missed this one.. A fitting finale to the efforts of the McRae Gathering!! That ramp/stand looks ace! Fantastic amount of money raised the last 20 months by the team! Nowhere near the same scale but there's also over £1,000 raised from the sale of the C.McRae window stickers/decals which will be passed onto the Colin McRae Vision charity in the near future ... Definately a well earned break required, as far as I know those guys havent stopped since 15th September 2007

First: 1994 Volvo 440 Now... 1997 Ford Ka + the scoob obviously

I'd say put more background on the rear door.. You hav ethe black/white on teh rear arch/pillar, then black white on teh front door, the rear door looks plain despite hte large bright M on there.. It needs somethign black in the background to joing what looks like blank space... IMHO

Looks like ther'es bits missing... But I've been keen to see how a road car look in teh KB colour scheme with teh black wrapping on the rear end, so If you do go for the full graphics It'd be the from me! But from the example above.. nope

Doesn't necessarily mean anything but just noticed that Hawkeye STi's have 5 uprights in their scoops

I believe it should with a modification to the mounting brackets (& possibly different Intercooler/DumpValve pipework)!

It's definately a newage Intercooler.. ... but it's a WRX one with Sti painted on it .. not having too much luck just now are you Standard WRX vs Sti Intercoolers: Note the extra ridge at the back of the bigger STi one:

That's interesting.. I have both a "Official" Bug WRX and STi Scoop. WRx scoop has 3 uprights and the STi one has 4.. One above has 5.. In saying that it does look like a bugeye Sti size and shape from the photos..

Hi Graham I'm not too good with part numbers.. But can you post up a photo of it or maybe post a link to the eBay listing, may be able to identify it from you from that. V8 scoops were made for all models of impreza even classics. Famous for the large "postbox" scoop owners wanted them for other models so quite possibly could be for a different model but Ver 8 "style".. Edited to add: Just had a look at my old standard WRX Bugeye SCoop and it has the part number PPE+PA6 on it so it may well be Bugeye.

Admitedly that's the way the WRX ones work but it's not actually how the STi ones were intended to work.. The dipped should stay on with full beam as well. what I did was take the switching earth terminal on the dipped bulb and forced it to a permanent earth so whenever the main lights are active dips are illuminated all the time. Did take me a while to figure out the best way to do it.. Was running them for a few weeks switching but didn't like that.. Also at night you get a far better view of the road with both of them on! I prefer them to the Morettes

Made my own in the end.. Did see one available from the US but for the cost decided to make my own.. Difficult bit is getting the appropriate connectors for everything.

That sounds spot on! Ideally both dipped and Full beam should be on at the same time when on full beam! The spare connector is probably for the headlight height adjustment, which either has different connector or is unavailalbe. Put the same lights on my WRX as well and made up my own harness for them just ignored the headlight levelling system as I never used it anyway. Also later on fitted HiD's onto the dipped projectors! Even in standard form the STi lights are far better at night than the WRX ones! Edited to add: on mine the levelling connectors were different.. Just make sure each of the lights work, Sidelights, Indicators, Dippes, Full & Dipped and you'll be fine

Not sure... Do you have a photo of the front of your car? Prodrive have their own Splitter which wraps round the bottom of the bumper and doesn't sit as low as this one..

Got Prodrive Springs on mine (Bug WRX) and I know multi-stories were close before. havent actually tried it with the splitter on but generally try to avoid them these days. Minor problem... Best thing to do would be to try it at a quiet time just incase you need to reverse out again..

It';s probably ok.. First attempt was done using self tappers and silyl plastic plugs. Never got any fixing with it and thought it would stay on with that.. err nope.. Discovered it does produce downforce and it proceedes to rip itself off and I drove over it where it broke into 3 bits LOL! Now secured with about 10 stainles stel bolts with 1 1/2 inch washers and rubber pads. Only way it's coming off is if the bumper comes with it! Reason I used the silicone was pressing down gently on the front middle I noticed it flexed enough to give a gap between the splitter and bumper. Figured that this could occur at speed so decided to seal the gap with silicone. Still easy to remove if necessary.. Ideally would be nice to have a quick release option for multi-story carparks

I whacked a deer last year and I'm convinced it saved me from much more damage!! I'm also convinced they do actually have proper aerodynamic properties and help higher speed cornering. They certainly do somethign as I ripped one off at a measly 65mph. Now attached with the help of some dcent bolts and silicone sealant around the front join They look good too! (Colour coded mine)

Although I don't think this is the latest version you can get ECU Explorer here: http://www.scouk.net/ecuexplorerv3025.exe RomRaider: http://www.romraider.com/RomRaider/Download The option you will be looking for in RomRaider is under the heading "Diagnostic Trouble Codes" on the left hand side. Locate the option which matches the ECU code. Then simply de-select the tick box. save the rom (ideally as a new filename) then flash it back to the ECU Sorted! Any problems lemme know.. of course I should also mention that if you just want to clear the warning light for now you can use ECU explorer to reset the ECU (F7 once it's all connected). But if it's the cat error then it will come back again.. Cool! will keep an eye out for ya

I'm sure paul will be able to help if you catch him But just incase.. First things first, have you downloaded any software for it yet? Namely ECUFLash, RomRaider & ECU Explorer. In a basic sense.. Use ECUFLash to backup the current ECU Use ECU Explorer to read precisely what code is causing teh CEL light (cant remember the code off the top of my head) Make a copy of your backed up ECU rom to work on. Open your ECU ROm file in RomRaider and disable the ECU alert for the specific code Use ECU FLash to load the modified rom back to the ECU. ^^^ Note this is a very basic description of what to do.. Once I have a better idea what software you have so far I can take you through the details. BTW - Where abouts in Moray are you based?

Simple answer yes! the MOT station I use will fail my car for having a sunstrip.. Yet they know full well I now remove it just before I take it for the MOT and have one fitted again within an hour after! Yet the one time they said not to worry about it, they failed the car for it! To say I was a wee bit pissed off that year is putting it mildly.. Strictly speaking it is a MOT fail but FFS! I know someone with a suntrip that covers a lot more of the wiper sweep than mine yet his car sails through at the same MOT station!! I used to think MOT stations where there to make sure cars are maintained and are roadworthy. Now I just think they are out to piss off people with whatever reason they can find [/rant mode off]