flat4phil

Hi Guys, I know there are a few around, even up here, but who are trusted and known? I appreciate the best ones are permanently in use by dealers, but somebody on here must have a preferred PDR contact? Thanks in advance people. Phil.

So what was their diagnosis, end shells, debris in the oil drained from the sump? What exactly did the garage advise to be the issue? Replacing the short engine suggests they found something had broken internally - however you say you noticed nowt wrong apart from 'slight ticking'. £2½k for a short EJ engine is excessive nowadays, but maybe this is new and stonking warranty, etc?

Al, the only thing I can think of is that the two halves are machine screwed together internally (leather wrapped top piece to lower section). If this machine screw rattles loose then this could be the cause? Try and remove the shift knob, then look underneath/ inside the hollow section - should be a screw visible if it doesn't fall out when removed.

Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta are being replaced by VREDESTEIN ULTRAC CENTO so stocks will be all over the place, and like most tyre type re-hashes it'll be older stock and so forth. Sessanta's are a good tyre, but many have complained over the noise levels and some have had problems with exagerated tram-lining. So get onto Camskill and see what stocks they have, but in all honesty, you could go with Falken 452's or HANKOOK K110 V12 EVO and love them long time as the wear levels, lack of issues and wet handling, will give you a smug grin for not spending £150 per corner on a much more expensive label. Did you know that Vredestein manufacture in India? Lots of rubber available, but not too sure about how they invest in the old QA?

You could try a well known name like http://www.bba-reman.com/uk/index.aspx Or contact the likes of Race Dynamix, and ask if there is anyone nearer to you, or perhaps an alternative to help you.

Strange you didn't go to Japspeed direct, but that's the danger of ebay - get's to be too easy. 2fast2cool are okay, have purchased cheaper items from them - with the understanding it's going to be a little low rent. Japspeed exhausts are fine as cheaper exhaust components go, and so long as the flange that bolts to the turbo exhaust casing is flat - you should find things work okay, just take heed of others comments and make sure any 'bungs' are not going to come loose. Get a decent gasket, as this will help seal things without over tightening the bolts.

At the risk of being flamed... if price is the major factor, then the D2's are maybe a good purchase, albeit not as popular as BC Racing stuff is at present. But after speaking to vendors who compete, it funny how Tein creep back into the equation, and hold their own. I'd suggest looking at Tein, even just a Basic kit. If money is no object, then get a Monoflex kit. Most coilies will give you a compliant ride, none too soft - a lot will depend on the ride height adjustment, and your tyres. I live in teutcher-ville and the roads are made up of mud, dead animals and road stone first laid after the war - my Teins perform admirably.

Did you ever sort this out? I used to buy cold air feed kits from Exhausts UK, or Cobra Sport before they turned superstars on scoobynet. I have a spare polished stainless steel 'bell mouth' you could try? My plan was to either fit the 'rolled' edge bell mouth in place of the driving light. If that didn't work out, I would purchase cheap set of ABS fog light covers, or those with mesh inserts, and mount the bell mouth into that.

Any suspension mods? Width of rim over 7½"? Number of reasons but you're right the tyre pattern is perhaps a little too 'offset' to offer as good a grip as the Impreza AWD demands (wait to be flamed now). I know a few who have flocked to buy Sessanta's and even though Vrederstein were to replace them early due to noise in particular I believe. Ultimately, you'll know whether it was tyre pattern, or your roads, or tyre pressure, or your camber, or your rim, or even the wall stiffness, but who cares if they took anything away from the driving dynamics. I'm so tempted by the the pretty 'race-effect' patterns produced, but ultimately stick to radial designs as the roads where I drive are utter toilet. Good to know if you resolve matters?

Not too familiar with the TPS, I know it can be an a*** if you don't follow the 'Owners Manual' advisory as per this quote: "When you fitted the throttle position sensor, did you just bolt it on, if so then that is your problem, it has to be adjusted using a digital volt meter it has to be within 4-5.5v at the ECU. States this in the workshop manual, there is a whole chapter on it." Going back to your 'firing on all cylinders' problem, it's worth double checking you don't have a damaged spark plug. Re-check even if you only replaced them recently. I still think it would save you from going up the wall, if you were able to take advantage of someone like Harvey Smith - there is every chance something could be pin pointed quickly enough so as not to take too long to remedy, or cost. Sometimes we have to trust in others facilities.

Some choice names in that list, should be a great turn out. Don't forget to contact Mr Trackhound, Alistair so he can fettle things nicely. Don't forget a colder grade of plug too perhaps, stick with NGK. If you want good advice, speak to Andy at RA Motorsport (01738 583 064), he may even have something on the shelf?

How about someone like Harvey Smith, Darlington direction? http://www.geocities.com/harveysmith3000/ Or, STEVE SIMPSON MOTORSPORT LTD: 0121 473 6729-070 3193 1688 31 TARNBECK DRIVE, MAWDESLEY, ORMSKIRK, LANCASHIRE, L40 2RU

Look out for news from the States and Japan - where it'll be launched before the penniless UK. Auto Express quote: "The newcomer will go on sale first in Japan and the US, and could arrive here in the UK in 2011. In entry-level guise, it’s set to cost around £20,000, with the flagship priced at £25,000. " Looks a sweet car.

Youv'e done some good thorough fault checking by the sounds of it - not a waste of time either. Think the problem maybe fuel cut/ fuel starvation? The boost will be ramping up, but is the fuelling keeping up at the new higher rpm. Do you know when the fuel pump was replaced, even the fuel filter? Carl Davey produces some pretty special parallel fuel rail bits that might help you also. Have you a boost gauge fitted? Can you tell what boost pressure you are running in each gear - as front mount/ tubular headers all add up to adjustments to the ecu, to stop boost spikes and fuel correctly. Watch your loom under the rad isn't too close to the new manifold. Is the manifold lagged?

I thought this when you posted previously regards that 'mystery hose connection'. Now wouldn't it be interesting to find out your's was an STi manifold and was registering a TGV fault? What a carry on. Speak to Duncan (Dynamix) and see if he knows of a manifold kicking about?