colin_ross

Pop the bonnet and look at the top of the box where it meets the engine. You're looking for a sticky label.

Have a look at the code on the top of your box, is it a 752 or a 754?

As above. Mine would have sold it and spent the cash by the time I got home.

You don't need to bed a gasket in so no worries on that front. What else have you had done to it?

At 310 a good phase 2 still box should take the abuse no problem. Early phase 1 sti boxes are marginally stronger than the equivalent wrx but once you move to version 5/6 the differences are far far greater. They have less teeth but they are thicker and wider and therefor stronger. I personally ran 416/400 through one and that included big drag launches without a whine or a grumble. PPG is another story. If you want a new one you're best bet is to speak to the main 3 subaru specialists in the UK, API, Zen and Lateral. API and ZEN will build the box for you but Mark at Lateral is a parts supplier only but a damm cheap one once you get to know him like I have. If you go down this route you wave a few options open to you, straight cut or semi, dog or syncro, standard fork or billet. You then also have to decide on your diff options but you can leave them be if your happy with your current setup. Straight cut is louder but stronger and semi is almost as quiet as standard but slightly less strong. Syncro is the only real option for a road car, dog is ultra hardcore but will let you do clutchless changes but will require constant rebuilds. I should also point out that the PPG kit only has 1st - 4th gears, you carry over your original 5th or you can source a UK 5th if you want to lengthen an sti one. The selector forks can be carried over from your original box but I wouldn't bother. Do it once and do it right and pay for the billet ones to compliment the rest of the kit. So, PPG will stand you at well over £3k in parts + building + gear oil + fitting + 5th gear (maybe) or you can do like I do and hunt down a secondhand one. If your original box is still working you'll have that to sell to help recover some of the costs.

Sweet, cheers mate

Nice one Col. Any idea how much?

It could be the maf sensor but typically that presents itself as more of a misfire. A total loss power sound more like boost cut to me. Get the boost level checked and if in doubt do an ecu reset and see if it throws a cel up to make sure.

Where did you get the black open pocket? I've got a forrester one on mine so the afr gaugue can be hidden in it but I'm not sure if I prefer the other one so on the hunt for one.

What way up did you install it, i.e. does the flap open up the way or down he way? That will dictate whether the pocket has to go on the top or bottom of the stereo.

Sounds like boost/fuel cut but you'll need to see what boost you're making to find out. Borrow one for ten mins,

Do you have a boost gauge on the car? If so what boost are you hitting when it happens?

No probs mate, should have known better. Just wanted to make sure you had the oil pressure gauge. The other 27 of them will come in usefull too

There's a huge thread on SNET about these plates. Massive drops in oil pressure have been observed and even cases of the one way flaps being sucked thru to the wrong side which means it keeps oil away from the pickup not around it. Have a look and have a think.

So he's aware of the potential issues with these then. Phew, thought I might have to break the bad news.

First mod I ever did was a knocklink, it just might save your engine. The main thing to check for when buying one is accident damage. They can be a bit, well, lively

First off mate - good choice. That sort of money should buy you a well looked after classic. Be fussy and buy on condition and the vibes you get from the owner rather than mileage. Il'll try and answer your questions based on my type r experiences Blow up - yes they can do. Treat them right tho and they're as reliable as any other subaru. Reglar servicing, obsevring warm up and coll down periods and using the proper fuel in a well thought out state of tune should see you right. Back sets - no, they don't fold down. Rpm/mph - in top they do 19mph per 1k prm so 70 ish is abput 4k. That is unless you buy a type r v-ltd, they have a taller 5th gear. It sounds like it's revving it's t1ts off the first time you drive it but you soon get used to it. I had a proven 160mph out of mine so don't worry about it limiting the top end. The tank is the same as any other classic, 60 ltrs I think. My worst mpg was 6 but that was a track day. Other advise......one of the best subaru's ever made and becoming rarer all the time. Get one while you still can, subaru don't make them any more you know.

Trust me to p1ss on someones bonfire but here we go..... Jim, do you have an oil pressure gauge. You'll DEFO need one if you're going to fit one of those windage trays.

Great times and teminals mate. Like I said - always bet on black. So whats getting modded next?

Ah, my bad. Bling comments still stand tho

Fmic, tmic, fmic, tmic........... make up your bloody mind Forrest Bling bling BTW.

Ehh, no I don't I did it once and only once. It was my first time on the strip and gave it a kind of half harted/hope I don't break anything kind of launch. I wheelspan like a mofo and bounce off the limiter, 2nd was no better. From that run on I've always launced anywhere from 3/4's to full lock to try and tame the wheelspin. The harder you launch the more lock you'll need. Wind it off as soon as you think the car will not spin it wheels (2nd or third depending on your power/torque) as it does increase the rolling resistance IMHO. As for wide open biting you in a straight line...... add in a bump or two and you'll need your wits about you.

There is a rod that runs accross the top of your turbo from the hot side to the cold side. It connects the actuator (round thing) to your wastegate (hindged bar). There is a circlip that secures the rod. If it's come adruft you should be able to see the rod loose at one end.

Check the circlip on the actuator, they're famous for it.

My talents must have been in demand elsewhere. Pick a theme - racer, jdm, manga, futuristic, kitch, subtle, bling, daft, attention seeker etc. Then ask for ideas. I like the circuit board personally. It's not too in your face, can be any colour, blue or black (subtle) to pink or yellow (not subtle) plus it would tie in well with your job. Logos them pep it up a bit.