colin_ross

Genuine question as I never made it today, was there any newages competing in Time Attack?

Lets see, you want the flat 4 noise of the subaru, the top end rush of the civic and the 2 wheel drive characteristics of the golf? Easy. Buy a REAL Type R and get it all. Flat 4 rumble that can shake the bonnet off it's stand - check 8300 rev limit with a short ratio box and a wide ratio grin - check 2wd? Wind the diff all the way back (as if it wasn't already) and show the mki/mkii escort drivers what rear wheel drive should look like - check Any questions?

If leather shorts and umpah music is involved.............................. don't bother.

Much appreciated Alan, as always.

I should have been clearer on the thread lock, the suggestion was to smear the washers with it not coat the threads. Modifying the oil hose has been discussed. I was thinking of having the banjo end replaced with a larger one and retapping the block (minus the heli) to restore the hole/bolt/banjo harmony. I like your idea too, might be a bit simpler.

Yes, back to the original thread. I can only assume it's straight so you may be right there. Think a crush washer would over come any imperfections? Have also been advised to try thread lock or 3 bond but not too sure about the implications/complications of this.

Alan, I had considered a crush washer of some sort, know of any local suppliers? Kenny - there is flat surface left so I'm sure a seal will be achievable with some trial and error. When we remove the banjo you can see the washers have been pulled out of shape, puckered almost, probably because of the increased diameter of the hole. JAC - I put it in, Johnny sh@t out of that one

We've tried a combination of copper and fibre of different sizes. With the heli in place it'll take masses of torque now but we think the larger bore is stopping up getting a good seal.

2nd week in June so not too long to go. Was trying to get a hold of Andy today to discuss it but he's a tricky one to get on the phone. Got the car mot'd today so not much left to do now although I'm very much stil in shakedown mode. Still haven't made it into positive boost yet.

Glad to hear it's not just me and that others have similar concerens. It probably got more to do with having seen all the work done rather than having dropped it of at a tuners and picking it up when it's finished. I'm painfully aware of all the issues that had to be overcome. Ignorance is bliss it would seem. What? The driver?

A day? How much did that set you back?

And it's called Subaru paranoia. Let me explain - I have a daily driver ford focus. I change the oil on it once in a while and the brake pads when sparks pour out from all four wheels yet I feel it will never let me down. I take it for granted it will start every time and don't have as much as a screwdriver in the boot in case of emergency. I turn the radio way up and never look at the temp gauge secure in the knowledge that all will surely be well. Now lets look at my subaru. I drove it all of 3 miles tonight and in that distance I must have looked where I was going for about 500 yards. The rest of the time I was busy looking at all of the gauges, over and over, my rear view to see if there was any smoke and when I got where I was going the bonnet was up staright away and 15 minutes of looking and prodding still left me feeling uneasy. The boot has a FULL toolkit, tow rope, vital fuilds and 3 fire extinguishers and the radio only get used when the engine is turned off so I can hear whats going on. This car get nothing but the best but because so much has changed, all at the one time, I have virtually no confidence in it not going wrong. So.....has anyone else got this bug or is it just me?

Kenny Brown not closer for you Jim? Heard he does a good job but no personal experience.

Experience is easy to find on this site, sadly budget is harder to come by (wfie and 2 kids also). You never mentioned any power goals so I'll assume you just want to get it back to where it was a cheaply as possible. That leaves you with one option, secondhand engine. Buy local and off of people you can trust, a wanted post in the sales section can go a long way. You're other two option of rebuild or 2.5 offer a potential increase in power but at a price. I'd be intersetdd to find out what went wrong with your old engine though as if that goes unchecked you could find yourself back at square one.

it's tough to advise what to do without knowing what you want from the car and what sort of budget you have. Any ideas?

But that's what stages are all about in my opinion. For example - I wouldn't have dropped in my new turbo without upgrading my clutch and gearbox too. I could have but that wouldn't have been very bright. When changing the spec you should look at the downsides of any changes as well as the ups/ I'm now on Playsatan Performance Phase 3 (PPP3) btw.

Andy told me two were required. I think one is to switch maps, the other for a/l. AFAIK the l/c is always on. Use the third one to switch on the neons.

Damm 't. That was my idea. Why 3 switches tho?

Real nice Jim, and in record time too. Is that a remote knocklink in the forrester pocket? Gonna do someting similar (but different) with mine

The round silver part on the front of the turbo is the actuator, this is connected to the wategate on a standard turbo via a rod. When the actuator is pressurised it pushes the rod and open the w/g The w/g is the hindged part inside the turbo to the right od the impeller. The penny as it is called it opened to release the pressure down the downpipe.

twin turbo's?

Of course it matters. My narrow minded classic biased views are as valid as the next mans. Or maybe more valid Squiggle makes a good point. Regrding the US tho, I think you'll find they never got the sti in classic form and are unable to import any rhd examples. Tuners will only promote what their customers can buy so not really a fair comparison. Pete's setup in a gc8 would be like adding another 100bhp and feel like another 200.

An wastegate is what vents off excess pressure on the hot side of the turbo stopping it spinning it too hard. It has a spring that holds it shut but when a certain pressure is reached (depending on how strong the spring is) the wastegate opens and releases the pressure. Boost controllers can bleed away some or all of this pressure to make your car run the desired amount of boost. An external wastegate is one that it not part of the turbo whereas the normal ones are built into the turbo. The reason's for going external is that you get to a point when you're running a bigger turbo where a bigger w/g is required to vent enough gas. The built in ones are restricted in size but the external ones can be a big as you like. There are other benefits regarding exhaust gas flow too as the exit from the turbo isn't disturbed when it is kept seperate.

Subaru enter the WRC to promote and sell their cars. Not much point trying to promote a car they no longer produce.

Hmmm. a lot of middleage owners seem to be saying that the stiffer chassis more than make up for the extra weight. So why do RCM, Zen, Andy F, Scoobyclinic, Lateral Perfomance, Tein etc all use classics for their track cars?