colin_ross

If you're willing to try a bodge this might be an option, http://www.brasselectrical.com/brass-fitti...b-connector.htm If you can screw one into the plastic it would let you attach the hose. It may split the plastic and then you'd really be goosed but if you're throwing it in the bin anyway..........................

Not sure what the part is (bloody newage's) but if thats leaving an open pipe onto the inlet manifold then yes, that would decribe the issues you've described. I did it once by mistake when I forgot to connect the vacumm pipe to my dump valve. Is it easy access to fix it?

I would assume it would be a relief valve mod them John but you could ask then if you wanted. One is to prevent a know problem where the relief valve bleeds off all the oil pressure in error, a shimmed one it to provide higher pressure. Forget using the oe water temp gauge mate. A 20 deg difference wont't make it move in either direction.

Did you disconnect the battery putting the gauges in?

15/50 will allow you to run a little hotter than standard oil but you should still keep an eye on it. How is your pump uprated, is it a relief valve upgrade or has it been shimmed for more pressure? The uprated intercooler shouldn't affect the boost at all, well not enough for you to notice. When you say the water temp is normal, how are you monitoring it? Not the dash temp gauge I take it? Those things only move off of the centre if the coolant is well over the norm.

There are norms when it comes to what your gauges read but ever car/gauge will be slightly different. As long as they fall withing the normal range the most important thing is to look for any changes outwith that norm as that could indicate a problem. Oil Temp - Can depend on many things. Do you have an oil cooler, what weight of oil do you run, do you have a lower temp water stat, do you have a closed deck block. All of these things can effect what your reading is and what is acceptable. Boost - Speak to your mapper to see what it should be showing. Oil Pressure - Again it's dependant on if you have oil squirters, an uprated pump and what weight of oil you run. Oil pressure is important as low oil pressure would indicate a mechanical or wear related problem problem. If it's not a faulty gauge then a rebuild is on the cards.

Bloody hell Jim, your missus must love you as much as mine does me. Engine parts strewn accross the floor, respect is due

WD40, lots of it. A long breaker bar to get you started. Hands of a 5 year old or membership of the magic circle to get the ones under the core. Oh yes and a box of plasters for your knuckles.

Should have said, dates are for 2012.

I've been thinking about getting a bit of testing following the work that's been carried out on my car. I'll be mainly concentrating on reliability first, speed second but as I've said before any time you get to drive it home is a bonus. Crail is the natural (only) choice and non-mag days will be the best bet as the queue's should be shorter. The non-mag dates are going to be 25th May and 8th June. Unfortunately there is no confirmed date for SSO yet so the June date may be leaving it a bit late. That said there is a Banzai day on the 13th of April. Yes it will be busier but if you find any issues you'll at leat have a decent chance to sort them in time. So, if anyones interested put you name down against a date and let the carnage begin. Banzai - 13th April 1. 2. 3. 25th May 1. 2. 3. 8th June 1. 2. 3.

When you're on boost your intercooler is full of presurised air and this will find it any way out it can. If you're on the gas it will be through the throttle body and into the engine. Then you lift off which closes the butterfly in the throttle body and at the same time stops the turbo pressure. The presurised air now has to find somewhere else to go and that is back through the turbo, this is whar creates the chuffing noise that you can hear. In standard spec the airbox does a good job of muffling this sound, even better if you leave the resonator on. Take these off and it's very noticable.

Vta's are nasty things in MY opinion. Subaru designed a perfectly fine dump valve and for perfomace and reliabilty that's what I would stick with. If you're significantly upping your boost then change to a forge recirc so you can use a stronger spring but that's it. Having said all that I have a vta on my car but because of my cars spec it is the best solution. If I could fit a recurc I would. And another thing, for the people who say they can hear their standard one now they've fitted a induction kit.... no. You can't. What you can hear is compressor stall.

You need to raise a dispute through paypal, they'll try and fob you off but don't take it. Fight the power's that be!

Out of interest Andy, how many have registered so far on the site?

I was going to ask if some of the guys interested in SSO this year wanted to go up to crail on a non-mag day, get some practice and shake the cars down. I'll start a seperate thread tho.

Nice numbers Dunc, just imagine what it'll be like when it's 100%.

Nice one Simon. You are living proof that the drugs don't work. What you got planned for your fuelling to keep it happy?

Yeah, but you put more work into it. Cheers mate, here's the latest pic of how she looks now. No kidding. No, they're not

Ah, the memories The 17's as heavier but that's mainly down to the tyres. Much, much rarer and more expensive too. Light wheels are the holy grail when it comes to fine handling due to the physics for rotational mass and unsprung weight.

Type r's came with standard sti wheels but had an option of upgrading to Volk Racing TE-37's in a 16" fitment. They are the lightest wheels I have ever felt as well as one of the strongest. If a big brake conversion hadn't forced me to move up a size I'd still be using them. You'll be looking a secondhand set as they don't make them any more, and they are pricey for used 16"'s but they they are defo worth it.

When it's sooooo obvious.

One day I had my car in at work and I happened to be leaving at the same time as a femal co worker. I jumped in the car and started it up and was faffing about changing the cd or something. Now my car is a bit loud but I wasn't expecting her to come and chap the window to comment on it. What did she say to me? "Just how small is your c0ck?"

Hmm, choices, choices, choices. Everyone will tell you their preferred way to spend your money but in the end it will come down to what you want and can find. If the car is going to be a toy classics are the best VFM. Spares are easier to come by and because they are lighter any mods, be they power handling tweeks brakes etc, will be more noticable. I'd never discount a newage, especially as an everyday car, but you'll need to work harder to make the same gains. Also, how long do you plan ok keeping it. The newer the car normally the more it will depreciate so if you're only going to keep it for a year bare that in mind.

Ditto. The car park should be interesting that night.

Goos idea. I'd book up somewhere but don't want to be Billy no mates. Camping may be the best idea for evening festivities although sporting the morning after look may not be the best move.