colin_ross

Great news! All the best to Big Mac, Mrs Mac and Mini Mac..

Is then new d/v a vta? If so there are a number of "features" that you may have to get used to. On a maf mapped car it will measure the airflow into the engine and deliver the right amount of fuel. When you dump the air out of the system it doesn't know this and will still chuck in what it though you needed. This leads to too much fuel being delivered and you can get jerky gear changes, pops and bangs, flames and bore wash (excess unburnt fuel making it's way past the pistons and into the oil). The springs in the kit hold the dump valve closed so the more boost you run the stronger spring you need to stop it leaking out. If you run lower boost you'd run a weaker spring as the boost pressure wouldn't be able to push past the firmer spring. It's a bit of trial and error to find the right one. As for your lack of boost I start by looking for a leak where you were working, check everything is tight and vacumm hose it secure and after that I'd try a stronger spring.

I'm afraid I'm no gearbox expert but the snick you're describing into 4th sounds like a syncro problem. Quick shift will show these up more than slow ones. If it gets worse try double de-clutching and see if that helps, if it does it will almost certainly be syncro related. If the problem is there in all gears then I would say it is more than likely your clutch. It may not be fubar'd if it's still gripping ok, it may just need adjusted after your day at crail. Good luck.

Sorry to hear you're having problems Damian. All the pulleys have timing marks on them which you need to line up. Here's what it should look like..... If you have any doubts about the belt or the tensioners now is the time to change them as the next time it lets go it could take the whole engine with it. Best of luck.

Try Elephant, they couldn't care less.

Wow. Deja vu [:S]

Their prices seem to be ok but make sure you're not in a rush for the parts. I waited an age for a set of injectors and have heard (first hand) of people having to cancel mapping sessions due to parts not turning up on time.

Any other mods? Do you have any way of monitoring for det?

I'm not familiar with that particular one but as a general rule of thumb the steel mesh ones are maf friendly as they are not oiled, have great flow characteristics but poor filtration. I.e. the air gets let in easy enough, but so does all the dirt that the filter is meant to protect you from.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Couldn't have put it better myself. Although I didn't exactly "forget" to mention my mafsim box of tricks. I just tried to explain what I did before I was set free from the land of mafs. What I did forget to mention was the vibration aspect. Thats why I used the apexi's support bar but made up an additional bracket to make sure it sayed in place. Be careful out there.

Might be a load of rubbish in your opinion Rus but I for one would not be wanting to put an oiled filter on a 99/00. It's a well documented weakness and one that owners should bear in mind when making any modifications. RCM and Mark may well sell oiled k&n's (I run one btw) but I do not know if they recommend them as such. I bought one knowing what I wanted and what spec it would be running with but I just asked for it, no recommendation there. I'm sure there are varying degrees of good/badness between them but why take the chance.

Good advice Gus. 99/00's are well known for thier fragile maf's. They can fail for no apparent rreason but oiled filter's are a sure fire way of breaking one. If you must fit an induction kit make sure it is a dry one, apexi has been tested as the best. I've got a used one lying about if you want to take a look at one. I would advise you leave the standard airbox in place until either it starts to become a limiting factor (around the 400 bhp mark) or you want to fit a fmic and it doesn't fi any more.

But has less miles on it than the owner

Oh, while you're at it take the dipstick out and smell the oil. Not wanting to put the frighteners on you but vta dump valves can lead to bore wash and petrol making it's way into the oil. If the oil smells of petrol it could mean something a lot more serious is wrong.

The rattle could be a number of things, heatsheilds can do it. Does it sound tinny like a shield or more like something internal, does it change with the speed of the engine for example? As for the lack of boost I'd start with your dump valve. If the vacumm hose is loose air could be escaping there or if the valve itself was stuck open that would esplain why its not making boost.

Abolutely Del, safety first. If they split open hopefully they won't put up too much of a fight getting them off. If there is a stubborn one you can't get off your welcome to try my impact gun on it. Should be safe enough to drive it slowly with one dodgy nut, even if it is the driver []

If they have spilt then there is no way I'd move the car Del. Would also make me think that the ones that haven't split may not be the strongest either. What's the problem with removing the split ones? Is it because you can get a grip in the nuts or because the key part is worn away. If it's the key that's the problem, and it is a hex then you can get standard fit ones from halfords or any other motor shop.

Nice work Simon. What's next?

Andy posted that he might actually be attending on Sunday. I guess you never know.

Let me put it this way. There are 2 types of Subaru drivers, those that drive 22B's and those that want to.

There is no way I'd buy a brand new evo 9 at the moment. I'm sure you'd get a healthy discount but when the ten comes out the ar$e will drop out of them big time. Either wait until then for your nine or put your name down for a ten. Can't really advise you on what car to put your money into as I'm not sure what you priorities are but if I was looking to spend mid 30's it would be an R34.

This is all good advice. The first thing I would say is get a test drive of one first if possible. Because of the differences with the transmissions they handle completly differently to a standard classic, it may not be your liking. There is a price jump from the 4's to the 5's and 6's, this is down to the minor styling changes and the fact that the 5's and 6's have phase 2 engines and gearboxs. They can also be remapped via Ecutek which the 4's can't. That said there is no such thing as a "bad" type r, on;y good ones and better ones. []

Welcome to the forum Sparticus. Nice choice with the type r. Classics rule.

At the end of July Time Attack and the drift championship comes to Knockhill on the Saturday and Ten of the Best is on the Sunday. Better stock up on the red bull for that one.

As above well done Andy. Would have said hello but looked like he had his hands full. Cracking day and at least the weather held out until some decent times had been posted. Came away with lots of ideas and the feeling that I'm not pushing the boat out far enough, some of these guys would show you how to really do it. Anyway here's some of the pics The Gobstopper, pass the tissues please Alan G's old whip not knowing whats happening to it Some old timer getting lost on the way to the shops. All his worthers originals must have fell off the dashboard as this is was a 9.3 second pass looks like. Oh yes and I love the prize he won for his efforts, Pro Class under 11.3s 1st place Sponsored by PowerStation -Trophy & Rolling Road Diagnostics Session with Power Run [] Winner- Andy Forrest 9.33s @ 161mph