colin_ross

I'll take it for you if you want.

Kudos Andy, way to raise the bar! A project like that takes serious commitment and balls and I take my hat off to you for seeing it through. It's certainly going to make it more difficult to pass you now. Well, a bit more difficult anyway.

Some cars are more equal than others mate.[] I've no idea why crail class the cars into cc but I know they take fwd, rwd and 4wd details for the shootouts. They don't distinguish between engine size for that though as only one stat matters there. Time. Anyway, I could have went all secret squirrel (not you Grant) and kept my mods hush hush and said I had a 2.0. But that would be pretty sad wouldn't it?

Out of interest why list the cc Craig. It's just another mod after all. Where would you stop? Turbo, fuel, ecy etc etc?

Sounds like everyone had a good day. Wish I could have been there to have a go for myself. Not sure I'd go to a mag day as they are just toooo busy and you can't get enough runs in. Thrash days are defo the way to go.

Sweeeet.

Very nice mate. Did you ever get to the bottom of that coolant leak?

So you don't know how long ago (time wise) the filter was purchased? I'd phone a specialist like GGR, RCM or Lateral (cheapest by far) as they'll know for sure. I'd wager that you'll end up with one of the smaller filters though.

How long ago did you buy that filter though?

I thought they all used the same filter but stand to be corrected. When was the last time you did an oil change as they changed the size of the filters a couple of years back to a smaller one.

But surely their boyfriends could tidy up all that stuff after?

This has been discussed before but never come to anything. At the last Glasgow meet we were talking about making an event of it. Either a friendly region v region face off or even contact the MLR and have a grudge match.

GT spec II seem to be very highly rated. I've got a set ready to go my car so while I can't comment on performance or sound I can say that they seem to be well made and I haven't heard any horror stories like you get witl megans's etc.

You can get adaptors that will allow you to bolt your d/v onto your new i/c pipework. When I had the same issue I just boust a new d/v that bolted straight on as it was much easier. Have a look on ebay as there normally loads, forge are the best in mu opinion.

Gearbox, clutch, driveshaft, who knows.

For flock sake Callum, you car will look like your avatar soon []

Yes you can. Do some homework as to what model/year you're interested in beforehand as the spec and the prices do vary. If you want any hints or tips just ask.

Will post up a pic Andy, bit difficult to put into words.

Righto - commom sense bit out of the way first. Sit in the drivers seat and make sure you can see where the led's are going to be past the steering wheel. If you have the wheel very low, have an very small aftermarket wheel or your girly jesus hair is in the way give up now. Making holes in your expensive car should not be taken lightly and cutting up a brand new kocklink isn't for everybody so think on before doing something you might regret. I'll offer my sympathies but but not my cash if you fubar it. Still interested? Tools required - Small philips screwdriver, small drill or better still dremmel, ink marker (colour is down to you you), electrical or duck tape, junior hacksaw. Take the clock surround off, on my classic this consisted of 2 screws into the top of the cowel and a couple of poppers. Now take a screwdriver to the knocklink box and remove the cover. Take the empty case and tape it to the top of the cowel and see if you can refit the cowel with the kl in situ. I know it'll fit on a classic facelift dash and have seen it done on a newage but I'm not too sure about the early classics. The reason I'd recommend doing this just now is if it fits into the dash at this stage you know the gubbins will fit before you start making holes and then realise it isn't going to go. It'll also let you know how far back/forward you'll have to make the holes. If you're happy it'll fit in there take the kl case and flip over the cowel so you are looking at the top (inside) of it. Using the holes in the case as a template use an ink marker and mark where the hole's need to be drilled. Use a ruler or something to make sure you get them centred between the screw holes. Take care to make sure you get them the right way round as they are not equally spaced and this will determine whether it'll run from left to right ot right to left. If I remember correctly the left to right config worked out better due to the fact it pointed the kl wires back over the top of the clocks. Drill the holes out or use the dremmel, try and start off just too small and make them slightly bigger until you get a perfect fit. I found the dremmel conical grinding tool was ideal. Remember the red is bigger so don't make them all that size or it'll look rubbish. Here comes the teckie bit. Take your knocklink, without the case, turn it over and drop the leds down through the holes you've just made. Tape it into place. Drop the loom down over the back of the clock and wire in in just the same as any other kl. I won't go into that as there's already dozens of how to's on the subject. One extra step that I did that you may or may not wish to do involves the hacksaw. I used it to cut the now redundant kl case in such a fashion that when I screwed it back on the leds still stuck out past where I'd cut it but when it was taped down none of the circuit board bore any of the weight. Probably me going one step too far but hey, I was making it up as I went along. Carefully replace the cowel and make sure you're happy with the fit and get ready to impress your friends and family with what you've achieved in the last twenty minutes. They'll look amazed but probably not for the right reasons. One other thing. I haven't tried this myself but did consider making the holes through the top of the dashboard. They probably wouldn't show up just as well during bright sunshine but would make a bitchin"heads up display" on the windscreen.

Yes Stephen, my last 3 turbo's have all been internally gated. This is a venture into the unknown for me.

Power is from the fag lighter too. I'll do a full how to description tonight while I'm at work. Might as well get paid for it.

No Dave, no soldering at all. All you need is, an ink marker, a small drill or dremmel if available and some duct tape. Oh and a junior hacksaw if you want to be fancy about it. You want the how to?

If you can get some traction you'll break into the 12's in my opinion. My standard version 5 did a 12.9 on my first ever time on the strip.

Thanks Pete, my first ever mod BTW.

No problem Stephen, hope you've got a supply of brave pills for the both of us though. Peter - as you know mate, nothing but the best for my baby.