euan_r

full aps all the way. cheaper kits wont cut it with all year round use up here, lack of dust seals etc. avoid made up kits as well, galvonic corrosion isnt nice. i am in process of securing 4 pot aps, more pots just means more even spread of pad pressure, if done right, no more.

unbelievable after the costs/time of travel for sake of 200 quid. cant have been that interested unless you get a phone call in next wee while.

Nice video, roads look good. I would have been tempted to give monkey boy a wee shove.

Dont think its that bad nightmare/playtime/scoobzie/jamie. Theres a pink one for sale in abz.

hi, i have just removed rear sti5/6 dampers to replace the pink springs for oe items for winter. ive dismantled the units and there are no bump stops visible, every other subaru ive tinkered with has had them present. The dirt gaitors are there. Are the bump stops missing or are they just located in strut housing due to them being inverted? thanks Edit: Found them inside incase anyone else ever searches.

Horrible news. Rip. :-(

Lovely colour dave. Wise choice taking miles off impreza over winter. 39 mpg....

If its the pipe im thinking off, which ive replaced before, its actually a coolant pipe. Would be best replaced all the same if it getting corroded as they are avaliable new from dealers or import car parts. Oil must be comming from else where, another possibility would be the pump. Crank bolt shouldnt be on exceptionally tight, i presume you had the car in fifth.

winter tyres have more silica so heat up and work a lot better than summer compounds in low temp. would never run summer tyres in winter especially ones with v shaped tread, just turn in to slicks in snow. i got the avon ice touring st from turriff tyres but they are taking care of alloys as well so dont know individual costs. looking online they appear to be fairly cheap.

picking mine up next weekend on my refurbished 16" wheels. i would agree with your expert up to a point. the leggacy runs the cheapest tyres possible all year round, m+s are cheap. its had various makes heros, sportivas,ling longs lol. very rarely get stuck with it in snow, i guess five foot drifts were a bit optimistic. even managed up our farm road in a couple of feet with the space saver on due to puncture. however it runs 185/75/14 or something similar. my old impreza never got stuck either but it also had canadian snow tyres on, again in smaller 15" size. i had to stick with 16" to clear the four pot, guess you will have to stay with 17s to clear brembos. i did consider group n wheels to reduce size but they wear out wheel bearings more due to large offset and require centre hole to be machined. where i would disagree with your expert is the fact that we are likely to be driving in wet weather most of the time. the full blow snow tyres on old impreza i found to be very aquaplaney in standing water. i was after nokians but was told some of the popular winter brands such as nokian and verstadin were going to be tricky to get a hold of this year due to demand from continent, whether this is true i dont know. was steered to avon winter tyres in the end but have never tried them before so cant comment yet.

ye canny de that min.

i run mine 99% of the time fully back, due to the fact the plates will wear eventually. tbh i dont push in the wet anymore. When i was on a wet track day i decided after a while to move the dccd to first orange and it made a very significant change, for the better. running fully back didnt prove problematic when i was on a b road blast and anticipating a slide or two. i have however found it to bite a bit when ive been shattered and just wanting home (steady pace) and not being fully aware, circumstances fairly close to original posters. i also found fully locked cutting out in proper snow last year. At the end of the day ive come to the conclusion that its a bit of a gimmick, as i could push my old viscous centered car a hell of a lot more. edit: no classic dccds do not have an auto mode. It also worth noting that no mater of dial setting the torque split is always 66% rear, as the dial adjust speed match not torque split.

belated happy birthday lads, hope you had a good one

uk cars are vn`s which means 3.54 rear diff, 1.1 to 1 drop gears and 3.9 front i think.

thanks for the best wishes. rich, the type r is a fair change to the uk. its certainly more rapid through the gears . im thinking i should have kept uk turbo for winter and track use though.

could be a whole host of little things. idle valve, perished hose, leaking aftermarket dump valve etc affecting idle speed.

the sti is a bit stronger but dont think wrx is, just different ratios etc., just so your aware.

liam was stopping subaru side of things but the cars kept finding him so he is still working with them. the experienced mechanics he used to have left a year or two ago. i would go to blitz now if i didnt do my own work.

the gearbox might be the limit depending on whether its sti or wrx and version perhaps.

cheers lads, cake dissapeared far too quickly. cheeky git, been searching to see if 12kg centre will fit into later box.

nope only 97/98 cars cant have original ecu mapped, there was talk on even it being done on mass but it hasnt materialised. have a look on andy forrests site.

why keep subframes? uk models are bushed. some have solid mounts, might be ra/r canny mind. rebuild rb as road car and new as dedicated track car.

****e. Old wagon was pulling well at 148K with tdo5, original head gaskets etc.

ive two sets that could be doing with refurbed too. moray group buy?

think you will need rear diff without looking at codes. iirc drop gears are different at very least, import vs uk. having gone through a few boxes on a previous car if it happens to me once more i would do it right first time send it straight to api. cheaper in long run, though a pre 99 uk box isnt the best place to start from.