euan_r

Will try and get along depending.

hello alan, no hiding just sadly nothing much taking an interest these days on here. ive mostly been pestering wuz and duncatr whilst rebuilding yet another scoob, wasnt really the intention but hey how hope your health has improved as a result of operations. rich has collected cats and hopefully will result in pass.

hi rich. I have centre and front for classic in the shed. My mot tester said he had to do some secret magic to get my car through last time though. i suffered engine failure a short time later so perhaps there was something ado.

you must have scared most off with your singing last time

it doesnt matter what reg its on as thats only dvla..... model codes can be found here: model codes

from memory alk bolts were done up tighter than rest, may be worth cracking them undone a turn before getting car in air. inner tie rod has tab thats bent over as locking device, i broke a screwdriver trying to undo it, just ended up using big key on tie rod and tab moved as a result. if your removing rear subframe might be worth squirting some penetrating fluid up holes in chassis rails next to bolts day or so before. They go into nuts welded inside chasis and i had misfortune to break one of these loose on an previous uk car. this resulted in cutting hole in chassis then welding back up (right next to fuel tank).

looks clean Its a v4 as its got a v4 engine and cant see them changing the wiring loom to fit v4 engine into facelift. Its got a v6 rear spolier and they must have upgraded grill and front bumper to v5/6. youd be better checking model code to make sure it is sti and not wrx as well, as manifold is not factory paint.

good stuff cant beat classic tlc. I did the whole lot too over summer whilst i was sourcing new engine. i didnt do roll centre kit as i used sti springs though. The rear perches on struts have rubber spacer but fronts dont. To protect the front perches a bit from metal/metal contact i used some whiteline spiral wrap around bottom coil of springs, something you may wish to consider. I also did full poly kit too. The rear hub/trailing/control arm bushes havent increased nvh as i had read elsewhere. i did fit poly rear diff mounts to my old car so knew it would increase nvh slightly and it has done again to some degree but when i took rear subframe off the bushes were aged so just did them anyway. Wise choice on prefabed anti lift, i went with the off centre bush route and pressing them in while retaining equal orientation for equal caster was a fiddle. i pressed out centre of front whishbone bush then cut outer sleeve carefully with hacksaw blade, came out no bother after that. I went for por15 as i would be able to do it myself, being tight git. Wished id gotten new bolts though or invested in plating kit. rear subframe looks tidier than pics as i tried wiping off all excess grease etc and just ended up smearing it everywhere lol.

i would be thinking of oil and fuel control measures first and foremost.

looks good dave, its came up a treat with polisher hard to belive its same car. ps. your not finished, get some flaps you chunt.

i will be down for this anyway. i wouldnt bother polishing the car though, as it just got covered in crap where we were put last year.

i thought ops budet was just about right for a standard 2 ltr forged build by time everythings added up, cant believe a big spec engine will come in under that, you must be supplying some parts as well. My basic short motor is not going to be far off that alone and im not going for a big build, just doing it right the first time. Then there is baffled sump (you will need a new one at least), clutch, modine, oil + water pumps, timming kit, the various gaskets including metal head ones, head bolts. There is then heads to get skimmed, decked and shim tolerances checked, if heads are reusable (sadly mine arent). Then there would be labour for removal/fitting unless op is into DIY. It all adds up very quickly. This assumes you will be sticking with orignal cc too as there will be mapping cost in addition otherwise.

I had same issue and it was lambda, sorry to hear its not the case here, presume you reset ecu after sensor changes. If you wanted to clean idle valve its on the throttle body, highest one just above throttle position sensor, sound like its not to bad if it only happens after a while though. I would also have a good look round the small vacum tubing to see if any has perished, also are you running aftermarket dump valve as air leaks would effect idle.

the fuel pump relay is a cylindrical one up behind dash with green connector. on input side, one spade should be hot at all times and the ecu sends 0v to other side when it wants fuel pump on. hope this helps. i ran one of my old uk turbos with direct feed for many years without issue.

Its closed loop so will be your lambda sensor.

Putting it politley its a rubbish idea tbh. Less posts and forum not as usefull as it was. This will mean less users (paid and unpaid) and therefore less revenue. Club needs to get back to what it used to be, which is busy first and foremost. From what i heard offline roberts original idea of restarting seemed a reasonable idea, divide the debt by your 20 quid and its how many upaid members required Shocking to see long term members treated the way the have been in this thread. Remember jc doing a nice bbq at crail for us with proper non-supermarket grub(2006)

Welcome back min. Sounds like good find, pretty rare a unmolested classic.

The chip will pull out and the resistor will be obvious as its not one of those tiny surface mount blighters.

The mines sticker means the ecu has had a chip added in japan and one resistor cut inside to bypass original mapping. Easy to reverse if you wanted too. Have a search on scoobynet, apparently even running 99 ron is not sufficient.

aye, there no bad like. Did say i wasnt going to do any trackdays in "good" car but given state of roads im reconsidering that. Whats the point splashing out keeping it tip top if you dont get to use it as youd like too.

happy birthday wee mannie.

i got the one above window from jap performance parts. plenty of other breakers as well.

very nice dave, monster brake size i fitted my ickle version yesterday. clearence was a bit tight had to remove wheel weights and add hammer on ones, good job local garage were still open. this put me behind schedule when i was wanting away, cant say i followed proper bedding in procedure for new pads mine came with near new ds2500 but i will leave them for track. went against my better judjment and went for ebc bluestuff as they seem to be getting good reviews, was after something more road use friendly. if they turn out to be crap they will be replaced with some 1144.

Ive done the job a few times now. Yes you need to remove headers or just that side of them. as above undoing engine mounts gives the extra room required to remove if heatshields are still inplace but ive never removed pitch stopper as engine only needs up less than a inch. Ive never managed to undo uppipe rear bolts without removing downpipe though, even bought one of those flexi head ratchet spanners but was unsuccesful. How have you guys manged without? Crows foot sockets?

Oh, i think so. Bbq again i think min.