euan_r

Baffled sump, fuel swirl pot, suitable tyres, suitable pads.

If its running rich it could dilute the engine oil depending on severity and foul the plugs as well.

i also have one. i got mine from a boy on the rb5 forum that makes them, i will have to have a rake and see if i can find details later, was a lot cheaper than 100. i realise it will restrict flow slightly but does its job of protecting fins thus ensuring intercooler works as it supposed too. I added wee bonnet scoop splitter to even things out a bit. I wouldnt worry about restricting flow too much as ditching under car trays has bigger effect, even swapping to 6 speed box effects flow on classics apparently.

taken 2 should be good, skyfall too.

As for listening to Neil, you realise as grunt eloquently puts he is special.........

Aahh I see, yes if sensor plugs get melted your ****ed. I didn't agree with sandwich plate idea in first place was merely replying to your post about defi wiring being very overly priced, which it is. Still got the black beastie?

Colin, the defi sensors just have econoseal connectors on sensor ends - cheap and easy to make your own, if your keeping eye out for some second hand.

It will enter limp mode with no speedo connected, just swap over sensor from your old box and job done. Edit. Pretty impossible to mess up gear linkage from box swap, I presume you didn't loose hat bushes in universal joint.

I wouldnt buy another n/a subaru they are just as thirsty on fuel when not booting it and same parts cost. Stay away from 02 onwards forresters especially, i have one as my daily and folks have another. The price of two rear self leveling dampers is far more expensive than a entire new four corner spring/damper set up for a classic. front cv joints are not avaliable aftermarket (i offered a few up) and a dealer part only which comes as full half shaft. Like all newages has a silly psuedo wideband front 02 sensor.

Superpro haven't increased nvh on my car whilst power flex have done in the past. Bush number 7 would be packed out by white line front of rear diff carrier lock kit, essentially poly rings that go above and below that bush to pack it in which would leave original bush, which is another option.

Sorry to hear about your wasted journey. The leak above is very common and is not a costly fix. Sadly the classics are just getting old and will require a lot spent on them, pretty much everything will be tired now. Looked through some adverts for some at the weekend and I could find fault with nearly every single one just by reading descriptions. There's one or two with high asking prices but they have had the money spent several times over on upkeep. Cheap classic is money down the drain IMHO.

I couldnt do the prep in less than a few days so fail to understand the drive in out situation. If some one wants to enlighten me in how you cam completely clean underside before undersealing i would be much obliged, otherwise entire task is pointless and will do more damage than good.

Enjoy the fish.

Ronin was decent, bar the usual suggestions that will turn up i remember car/train chase in french connection being quite good and done adhoc without closed roads.

Aye, completely agree alan, thats just not on you should have shown them how to do it properly.

Phone km every year as being tight scot i explore every option, always get same reply which is "tbh mate can touch the quote". My automatic renewal from admiral was 420 fully comp with combined excess of 250 on import sti and i dont have sqeeky clean record.

ive tried loads of metal polishes. autoglym was reasonable, meguires doesnt shift that much but leaves best shine, raceglace has good cut but can be beaten on shine. I now use the britmax twins. Ones good for cutting through heavy stuff and other is polish/sealant. I wont be changing as sealant does work and it doesnt get so tarnished between polishes. If its heavily tarnished use some 0000 grade wire wool with polish after quick wash.

never had a 6spd but ive always used syntrax/driveline thats recommended. Changed recently to redline shockproof lightweight to see if it improved a slighlty worn synchro, it didnt, but changes feel slicker in other gears and when its cold.

Glad i brought my hat. Not any snow worth mentioning but that which landed ensured the newly graded gravel got wet and tore up. Rear wheel drive nova was quality whilst it lasted. Think it was nearly half the entry list lost to attrition and saw quite a few offs. Thanks to dave again for 0 mile walks into stage. Gas stove in wind is no match for bbq though but meal at night more than made up for it.

Mines mounted upright in drivers side boot, did consider making bracket for pass seat rails but would need to be smaller size. Should get boot open and grab it quick enough.

Blue type r but you wont see it going about the village as its nae worth getting covered in salt to do a few miles up to shops during the week, more weekend toy. I will be seen in battered old legacy or forester. Theres pics of it over on local forum aberdeenscoobies, the techs a lot more comprehensive too as you seem to like diy too.

Aye recently fitted fire extinguisher too. First car i have to aswell after seeing what happened to andys and jimsters cars here. Johns good, my car just goes for mot once a year but im up all the time pinching fixings/fluids/ tools i dont have.

Usually rocker covers that leak. Then check filter/ sump area. If not and it is from under belts it could be camshaft seals or cranks shaft seal or even oil pump comming loose. Belt will need to come off to do any of these and will probably have oil on it anyway, so you will be replacing it. Camshaft pulley bolts are tight and belt alone is not enough to hold them at torque level, so use caution as valves will mesh if you knock timming off. Get john at local garage to do it if in doubt, hes owned a few, rebuilt his own gearbox on his old car etc and is reasonable. I was in filling up the banger in cognito whilst your were talking tyres.

Yes, i quite realise your doing it outside with no ramp, garage etc, im in same position. There was no mention of underseal previously and its entirely the wrong time of year to be doing it anyway. It should be done height of summer when moisture is low. Any moisture on shell which is then undersealed will be worse than not doing it at all as moisture is then traped under the underseal. Cant believe people fall for all the garage special prices for undersealing at this time of year,car would need steam cleaning to get muck/ salt off then several days drying out!!!! If you want to start a thread called epic then do it thourghly, i dropped subframes, tank etc and stripped / por15 the lot but just considered it routine maintanance. Are you fitting lowering springs? As otherwise i dont see neeed for bump steer kit and whiteline items dont really stand the test of time. The rear hub bolt can be removed by clearing debris in the gap with a wire brush, get the bolt turned and repeat brushing. Continue untill freely spinning then start removing whilst still rotating, never been defeated yet.

Yip he seems to have good intentions but not really going about it the way i would. Fmj, why didnt you drop subframe and tank whilst at it, opportunity mist imho? Secondly waxoyl is intended for interior cavities etc and wont last even a year in wheel arches. Areas that are subjected to impact require underseal, stonechip gaurd or epoxy. Ive removed rear hub bolts off 1800 gl beaters intact.