euan_r

2.8 to 3 bar with engine running and vacuum hose disconnected. should drop once hose from inlet manifold is back on to about 2.2-2.4 bar

Im not going to have time to get car ready for this, somebody else can take my slot.

The ecu triggers pump by switching the earth to relay to 0v. The relay is under the drivers dash right up nearly at screen on early classics iirc, its cylindrical with green connector. Cant recall if output side of relay is switched earth or positive.

Essentially yes but you will be desturbing inner and outer bearing races and you know what subaru wheel bearings are like. You will still need press/puller to assemble/dismantle as well. Hammers will just fubar contact surfaces.

Sounds like abs ring is of the type that fits on to back of hub as appossed to driveshaft type, in which case you will probably be best ordering wheel bearing too as flange wheel studs attach too needs pulling/pressing off to fit abs ring. Second hand hub time possibly as i once broke an abs ring and think it was a good price from dealers.

theres the sidc days at knockhill, ive only done 2 (well 1 wet and 15 mins in dry... before things started melting) but there was free tuition avaliable at both.

Yes you right final drives need to match and you obviously understand that. My concerns would be mating ty752 crown and pinion with ty754 driven gears, paul blamire would be one to ask on that. Ty754 sti gears are slightly bigger but they are all old gears at the end of the day and metal fatigue will play apart. At the back of my mind i have something about ty754 first catching ty752 casing.

Your mixing and matching two different phases of gearbox parts, ty752 and ty754, i dont know about compatability. Be interesting to know how you get on. In fact iiirc you may have to grind case. Did you get reverse idler too? I would just of whacked a fifth gear set on you existing shafts and be done tbh. Will check the codes to see ratios later.

bit confused. 1st 2nd are part of main input shaft so you have put complete type r primary+secondary shafts+front diff into your bare casing if im reading it right. Was type r gearing from ty752 box? Thought type r /ra gearing was the same but maybe early ones are different. What was original gearbox code?

1. Davey l wrx - Hawk STI - Any date 2. LynneNap - Blob WRX - Any Date i tell her she's going! 3. ScoUK - Bug WRX - Any date hopefully 4. MonsterEnergy - Impreza Cosworth STi CS400 45/75 - Think I might make July, if work stop pissin aboot with my schedule 5. scottishtaffy - classic type ra - any date. someone keep me posted lol 6. scooby222 - potentially any date 7. Euan_r - classic - most probably july

Id imagine it will be call to lawrence of kemnay with you providing part numbers as i wouldnt trust them. Why are you adjusting preload and backlash? I thought it was only fifth broken. Gasket spacers are infront of fifth and if you are changing front diff side seal, why not mark position before unscrewing. You would be advised to order new sake nuts as well, i know graham goode do them, and add a spot of stud lock for good measure.

Top one is dccd. Outside looks a bit shiney though like its been spinning. Has it got a hoop on it at the back as that leaves it free to rock a bit in casing but not rotate. The wires should have brace on transfer case top plate then pass through it. Bottom drop gear has secondary set of splines on dccd equiped units. If your fitting viscous unit you will need to use wrx drop gears....just switch entire tail end. Have uk fifth gear set, complete wrx front case ( gearset) and rear diff sitting a few miles away from you if any use.

my cars fairly standard just now but looking to make a few small changes in near future. Do a lot of work on my car and every time i had intercooler off was annoyed at seeing a bit of oil in pipes. The seals on my old vf28 didnt like 1.5 bar as it turned out but all squeeky clean now.

i fitted a two port to mine as well. I did it to stop any crud getting into intercooler and reducing air/fuel mix quality. The standard system is setup to allow air to circulate through rocker covers and out crank breather, then back into air intake or manifold depending on engine vacum/boost. i removed all oem breathers, bunged manifold and inlet pipe ports, put mini filters on rockers and fed crank breather to catch can.

If its increasing with road speed and not gear related it could be many things; any of the bearings, front or centre diff, drop gears. cant tell really. Its just you thought noise was comming from back of box, i have spare entire rear casing from older version that would fit but its not low milage. a replacement box would be best vfm if its truthfully described.