icedog13

Guys, My speedo stopped working this week and I am trying to find out if anyone can pinpoint the root of the problem. I know my car has the cable drive up to the clocks, but the speed display on the Apexi Commander is also zero. i don't know where the ECU gets its feed from so I can't tell where the problem lies; gearbox speed sensor perhaps?? if it has one? I dunno. Thanks in advance. Craig.

I am 38. I was with AutoDirect for my newage STi and changed halfway through to my 97 Type R - they said the payments were fine and no adjustment was needed. That was £550 fully comp. When my renewal came through in November they were wanting about £1200 if I mind right!!! They were told to jog on and the cheapest I could get was with the Post Office at £440. Dancer! That was through moneysupermarket.com. Tried phoning the Subaru "specialists" and they told me just to go with the Post Office deal as it was too good not to.

Came off my bike when I used to BMX at Livingston. Thought it was just a sprain but went to hospital to get it checked anyways. Scaphoid fracture and flaked bones showed up on the X ray and I had to go back the next day for a second look and a "stooky". At that time I had my own flat but never got paid if I was off work. I asked the hospital not to put it in a cast and I would sign a disclaimer but they were not having it. Off work for 6 weeks with no money. I had to rely on my workmates who had a collection for me. Apparently if this fracture is not set correctly it can cause massive problems later in life; osteoporosis, etc. I am sure I was only back on my bike for a couple of weeks and suspect I did it again - I still had a metal splint from the first time so I just stuck that on for a while. Stupid, I know, but there was no way I was losing my house. Seems quite a common break in bike/skateboard circles.

I have owned my 97 Type R for about 6 weeks now and am asking some advice about the DCCD. I finished work this morning about 7.30am and it was wet and still drizzly. Where I joined the motorway off the slip road I was parallel with a lorry and would not get past him so I just held back and then pulled in behind, about 80km/h. There was someone quite close behind me so thought I would pull out and get away past the lorry. I dropped to 4th and pulled out. At this speed with 1.4 bar boost the car was wheelspinning and the back end started to drift side to side. I did not need to do anything as it bit in and pulled straight. A nice wee jolt to keep me awake on the road home from nightshift!!! I have always left the DCCD fully open (65% rear) as I don't want to be energising coils for no reason (I assume it is coils that adjust the diff.) I think in the wet I will lock it up at 50/50 from now on. I have read what you are meant to do, but what does everyone else do with the DCCD? Drive sensibly in the rain would be the best answer I think - before anyone suggests it!

I have only owned a Subaru since September 2009 and have dealt with folk on both forums mentioned. Some of the advice I have been given and the stuff I have learned from both forums has been worth its weight in gold in Impreza ownership, moreso recently whilst going from selling my newage to buying my Type R. (Which was from a .net member). Each forum certainly has a very different feel to it and I have seen animosity appear in posts previously but I won't be taking sides - there is a wealth of knowledge out there and everyone should play nice.

I waited 2 months for gunmetal redlines - 18"! Dealing with Inovit is a no-no as they are useless; don't return calls, ignore emails, etc. I dealt with Scoobyworld who managed to get me them cheaper and they came straight from the manufacturer! Scoobyworld said they also had problems dealing with Inovit in this country. By the time I got the wheels and fitted tyres I sold the car 4 weeks later anyway!

As BMWhere says.......or..... Take a snap in RAW format, open in Adobe RAW converter, save a few images with different exposure settings and then layer all the good bits in Photoshop.

Cheers again for all your help guys.. much appreciated. Excuse my ignorance but does a fresh import need re-mapped to run on Uk RON fuel?? Have spied this on Pistonheads, but more details and pics here... Type R Price is sky high here, it is also on Ebay and the bidding starts at £5100!!! Let me know what yous think. Craig.

I would say £6000 is me maxxed oot! And I am heading towards white or black, sti, etc. Thanks again guys for the advice and links - appreciated!

Thanks for your help and info guys - much appreciated! Coultys is nice - one of a few I have had my eye on but I need to sell mine first; the market seems slow right now across all the websites!

My current Subaru is my first; 53 plate STI UK. I was a newbie whenI bought it (still am very much) and tried to get as much car for my money as possible as you do buying any car. I grew up in awe of classic Subarus and always wanted one - I still prefer them to look at compared all the newage cars. Knowing then what I know now I would have went straight for a classic from a Subaru enthusiast. So I am currently looking at buying a classic and need help with what to watch for. I don't mind some mods, but nothing crazy! Reading various articles and forums I am starting to see info such as below 50000mls is good and anything after that should really have rebuild certs, etc. Apparently this is due to the bottom end bearing liners start to spin around this mileage??? Am I right? I am sure the article was about P1's but are they not all EJ blocks? What's a short deck, is it something to do with the block casting? Excuse my ignorance guys! As I said I have gathered small bits of info from various threads on various forums but no one thread in particular with a definite topic. Help and info would be appreciated folks. Craig.

Nice lookin classic - welcome mate!

There's a place in Randolph Industrial Estate probably has a nice set of part worn remoulds that will fit!!

Maybe my connection speed but he aint no Clarkson! Looks like hes made of plastic.

The 7D is what I would go for if I had the money - its the highest spec you can get if you still want to use EF-S lenses. Nice!