AlanG

FWIW ,i use the diesel version and i've got to say, it made a difference to my car the first time i used it.

As mentioned in the past, check if there is a restrictor in the oil feed line to the turbo, either a restrictor within the core of the turbo itself, or in the fitting to the core of the turbo.

Thermostat not opening? Simple job to remove and check

I think you're still showing a number plate in one of those pictures..

I think it might be a fuel additive to keep your fuel lines and injectors clean. Fuel line cleaner

Over the years i tried: Prodrive professional (both versions) AVO coilovers Leda coilovers Cusco coilovers P1 suspension Overall enjoyability factor for me was the last option and that was with over 600bhp Personal choice is a funny thing... Brakes: Std 4 pots AP 4 pots 304mm discs AP 6 pots 330mm discs. No need to ask which i preferred... Tyres? Strange one I had Avon ZZ1's once which were renowned to be crap and they were.... with the std suspension, yet were blinding with my Cusco coilover set-up. Go figure. I still liked the Toyo T1-S's i had for a long time, very predictable and a good all round tyre. Are the T1-R's not more of a wet weather type tyre though?

ScoobySounds I'm looking at the brakes scenario as being based on the mods you have done and what you intend to do with the car. I had AP 6 pots on mine. Great brakes, can't fault them, but they're expensive, even secondhand. I've never used EBC pads before so can't comment on suitability. I liked the DS 2500 Ferodo pads, but that was in the 6 pots. I had 1155 Mintex pads on AP 4 pots and they faded very quickly for me, so can't recommend. If you've got the money to spend and a burning hole in your pocket, go ahead and get bigger brakes. I just feel at that level and use it's unnecessary. If the EBC reds are suitable for road and some trackday use, try them out and see how you get on. It may be all you need. As for suspension, again, i'd save my money and not buy the pillowball mounts. You already have adjustable camber bolts on the bottom of the struts and they give enough adjustability for what you need. The idea of camber is so that you get the most footprint on the road/track when cornering. Too much camber can be just as bad as too little. For std suspension, i'd set it in the order outlined earlier at about 1-1.25 deg neg. If you're going for a lot harder suspension, then reduce the neg. camber as the car won't roll as much in the corners, so need less camber to maximise the tyre footprint on the road/track surface.

6 pot brakes are good (obviously) , but it's a big part of your budget if you buy new. If it's mainly road use with some trackdays, i'd be inclined to fit a set of pads in the morning of the trackday as they will withstand the higher temperatures seen on track than you do on the road. As for discs in std size, keep to std discs. It's the pads that provide the friction to stop, so look into recommended pads. This also depends on what sort of power you're running on the car. At the level you have, i would do as above, but if you're planning further power upgrades, then maybe the 6 pots would be the better "future proof" bet. Don't know the "superstreet spec" or what that entails. If std suspension, set camber to max equal at the rear and around 1-1.25 deg neg equal at the front. Set tracking to 1mm toe-in each side front and rear. Will handle well with that assuming your suspension is std and in good nick.

{top of my head} Leaky standard blow off valve?

Is it mapped on the rollers? Maybe inlet temps are too high causing lower timing to be used to compensate for the high inlet temp? {Away to the local farm for a bale of hay, so's i can clutch some straws at the moment...}

Personally, i don't see why naming the mapper is going to help the problem here? The original OP carried out some mods, got somebody to map it, got results commensurate with the mods and so was happy that whoever mapped it, did his job correctly. The OP then did some more mods, but this time, the improvement expected,didn't happen when mapped. It sounds like there's a little bit of a mismatch going on with the mods used. The theory and the reality don't match up. It's like saying i get 25mpg. If "wonder fuel saver" tells me its' product can save me 10% in fuel, i should then get 27.5mpg. If i then pour in a "wonder oil additive" which says i can save up to 10% in fuel bills, i should really see over 30mpg from the car, shouldn't I? The reality as we all know is that you just don't see these kind of results, do you? It's the same here i think. The product says it should achieve xyz bhp. Yes, it probably will with the right supporting mods, but there's a piece of the jigsaw missing to allow the OP to achieve it. {Edit} Russell, the OP mentioned his mappers suggestions earlier in the thread.

Hi Russell I was meaning in terms of internal silencer design than the bore or number of bends in the system. Looking at figures alone between the two set ups can appear to be disappointing, but you would need to see the figures under the curve and the maps to see what's going on i think. Peak figures don't necessarily tell the whole story. I'd take the air filter off and see how the car performs. It's quick and easy and you should be able to feel the difference if the filter is an issue. Only do a couple of runs though, don't leave it off, but you'll know that anyway.

The "key" word in my post is "if". I'm not saying it is restrictive, it is a suggestion. Is the back box for example straight through? Or is it like an Sti box? A bit extreme maybe, but i had a 3" system on my car, yet 2 different backboxes gave two significantly different readings and was noticeable on the road at the same boost level. It could be something totally unrelated to any mods done so far. It could be something like a cylinder down on compression. Unlikely, but who knows? We haven't seen the car and don't have sufficient information yet, to determine what the cause is, unless someone has done similar and has better results. I don't see where it's mentioned, the inlet pipe was replaced? (Assuming you're talking about an aftermarket one)

"Last minute advise please" Have a fish supper from the wee hut just round the corner from Andy's at dinnertime. The fish is huge and the taste is to die for! Yummy!!

First thing google comes up with.. "Subaru was the first Japanese car company to use a name derived from its own language. It refers to a group of six stars - also known by its original Japanese name of mutsuraboshi - in the constellation of Taurus. We'd know them as Pleiades. Subaru is also Japanese for "unite".

If the exhaust is restrictive, it won't let the gasses out quick enough at the upper rev range Dave and so will strangle power. Remember that even though the 20g may be boosting to the same level as the previous turbo, the 20g will be flowing more "volume" of air, which means there will be more volume of exhaust gas to come out. I'm not saying that is the case here as i know nothing about the car, but is a suggestion. I believe the system is 2.5" throughout?

I was going by hitting 1 bar at 3000rpm Dave. The boost control for 1.6 bar at 4-4.5k *may* be dictated by other things such as surge maybe? If there is any seen?

Ported std headers? I'd reckon around 350ish though if that's the case. Fuel used will dictate as well. Re-check duty cycle. It should be much the same if the power is the same. Not sure if the air filter will start to become restrictive for what you're aiming for, i don't know the filter. Also a 3" system will help for power rather than 2.5" cause it's indicating a quick spool up.

lol. I couldn't hear the indicators cause Terry Wogan was on Radio 2 at the time. Drivetrain shock is the gearbox killer. A paddle clutch provides very little clutch slip when starting off or changing gear. You may have 300+ Ib ft of torque out of an engine, but "bang" that load into the gearbox with a hard shift and the loads will rise tremendously on the 'box internals. I never had an issue with 415/352 on a 2litre with Sti box (lower ratios) and AP organic clutch, but broke a couple of UK's prior to this using an AP paddle clutch. For normal road use i don't see much of a problem. It also depends how good the 'box is in the first place. Before i ran the 2.5 at 500+, i overhauled the Sti 'box and it ran for 8 months before 3rd gear broke (not under load). This wasn't ordinary general driving. Every time the car was taken out, the full performance was used as the car wasn't used for general going to work or shopping duties.

That was to tell you to pass, but the contorted face and fingernail imprints on your steering wheel told me you didn't have enough power to do it.

PMSL. Doesn't say much for your driving when you were always behind me on the Glasgow run to Rest and be Thankful last year!

Oh i dunno... i had a TY752 on mine for 8 months at over 500Ib ft before it went... 350Ib ft should be alright long term as long as you're not using the car for drag racing or hard gearshifting on a paddle clutch.

Been a pleasure Frank. You'll have a well sorted out car once it's done. Now's the time to get it mapped and get out there and enjoy it!

Can't imagine there would be that many vans around, but the ones i see regularly (especially Barrhead) is stickered up. (On the side where you won't see it 'til you're at it). What was the back of the van like? Darkened windows? sliding window open?

Spaceman video