AlanG

Okay doak. I had to ignore your call earlier cause i was in a meeting. Should be free later today.

How'd you get on yesterday Peter over at Andy F's?

I actually quite like them, but i know what you mean. Many, many people have been caught out there, especially the last bend before the traffic lights at the Hurlet.

If only i could have got that baseball bat off her in time...

Thanks Dave. Wonder if it's a selector rod issue.. Knees absolutely killing me today. Not good. Didn't sleep last night cause of it, coupled with having to get up during the night cause the wee ones got a high temp just now. I'm jiggered this mornin'

Offer still stands though i've buggered my knee today (don't ask) and can't walk much at the moment. I'm hoping the swelling will go down in the next couple of days and will be alright for when we mentioned. I'm not convinced it's the linkage after speaking to someone else, but for all the time it takes to do it, it's worth a looksee.

What are the symptoms of having that 5th gear nut loose Dave? I've never had that issue but talking to others it seems having that loose might give a knock on effect with the rest of the gears? The scenarioo Stephen is giving with not being able to get into 2nd is true. When you move the lever in neutral towards the 1st,2nd gate, you sometimes hit an obstruction and so lever won't move over to the 1st,2nd gate. You have to then wiggle the lever slighlty in neutral to pass the obstruction and then it goes into either gear okay. 5th gear though is awkward. It always "clicks" going into 5th and needs a little extra effort to do so. A bit difficult to describe but feels like you aren't entering 5th in the centre of the gate, but you have to ahve the lever against the right hand "stop" before you can put it into gear.

Bringing this back on top. Had a drive of Stephen's car. We didn't hear any untoward noises from the 'box in 3rd (weren't in 5th much as explained later) and certainly there is no real vibration from the gearlever when in 3rd either. The clutch itself bites very high up with little pedal movement left when fully engaged, but clutch is releasing okay and it isn't slipping. Stephen had problems getting into 5th tonight and when i drove it initially it didn't want to go in either, though running up and down the gearbox it did eventually settle going into 5th though it "clicks" on its' way in. The other strange problem the 'box has is sometimes in neutral. When in neutral, you should be able to move the lever left and right in a straight line. Sometimes it does this, yet sometimes it moves in a straight line between 3rd and 5th but moving the lever towards 1st,2nd, the lever moves not in the direction of the passenger door but towards the seat back of the passenger seat i.e. in an arc towards where 2nd would be. If you wiggle the lever around it eventually decides to act normally. I think it might be worthwhile looking at the linkage for a quick check than take the box out for the moment, but has anyone else had something similar?

You have 440cc injectors as standard. You've got two ways to do it. Either fit an adjustable fuel pressure regulator or change the injectors. See pic below. These are ballpark figures. If you want to change injectors it's straightforward. You just need something like a pair of calipers to get hold of the injector and pull them out sharply. Make sure you get rid of fuel pressure in system before you do it though.

You're not that far away from me if you want me to have a look as a second opinion? PM if interested.

As long as you have an understanding of what you're trying to achieve, it's easy enough to do. The adjustment is done at the clutch pedal, though i would still recommend somebody look at the clutch "operation" before going ahead and adjusting the pedal just for the sake of it. Certainly from what you're saying it sounds like your not getting enough clearance when you disengage the clutch, though as mentioned earlier it could be the oil. Have you got anyone local to you knowledgable enough to have a look and determine what it might be?

Assuming you've got a UK MY00 car, you'll need a matching rear diff to go along with a P1, Sti gearbox. The UK cars use a 3.54 rear diff with a 3.9 front diff in the gearbox. P1 uses 4.444 in both front and rear diffs. Your choice of gearbox is a straight swap as long as you use the matching diff if you go for a Jap version of gearbox. As for 330bhp out of the UK, providing the box is sound and you don't use a paddle clutch and do side step launches, it'll be fine.

I'd find it unlikely (though not impossible) that the wrong oil was put into the gearbox, but it seems to point to that. However, as another possibility it might be down to the clutch itself not releasing properly? There is adjustment on these clutches though you might not think so at first by being hydraulic, but i had to adjust mine when i first fitted an AP organic. I say this only because you say the gearbox was fine before and the only thing (s) changed are the oil and the clutch/flywheel assembly. Doesn't sound like a gearbox failing, so i would rule that out for the time being until it's known what oil is in the 'box and if the clutch needs more clearance.

PMSL! I thought if you went from one page to another in the same browser it would automatically have refreshed the page? I could see that if i had two browsers open but... Need more PC lessons methinks!

Here's a strange one... Trollin' about from one forum to another jist now 'n i clicked back on this thread 'n it's got the original posts in it again What's that all about? Normally it goes to the "latest" version. Gie's a minute 'n i'll put the posts back.

Oops! Too late! Looked a bit nerdy after i put it all up, so disnae matter.

Fair enough. I'll edit the posts and stick to topic.

Snapshot of spreadsheet used to calculate mph/1000rpm. If anyone wants a copy to piss about with tyre/wheel/gearbox options, you can mail me.

PMSL You should be fine with 215/45x17"'s.

lol Basically smaller diameter, lower gearing, bigger diameter, higher gearing. {Marks Franks homework down as a fail.... }

Ahh... Good old mathematics. Knew something would be learned at school. Right children pay attention! YOU at the back of the class! QUUIIEETT!! C= {pie} x D For a 215/45 x 17" tyre C = 3.141592654....... x (17x25.4)+((215x(45/100))x2) C = 3.141592654.... x 625.3mm C = 1965mm C = 77.36" For a 225/45 x 17" tyre C = 3.141592654..... x (17x25.4)+((225x(45/100))x2) C = 3.141592654.... x 634.3mm C = 1993mm C = 78.46" To work out road speeds for different tyre sizes, you need the formula: Road speed = (60 x engine rpm) / (wheel revs/mile x diff ratio x gearbox ratio) Say you run 215/40 x 17" tyres and you have a P1 gearbox with 0.738 5th gear ratio You also need to know the revolutions / mile of your tyre circumference, so for 215/40x17" for example the rev/mile of that tyre size is done by the formula: 63,360 / circumference (of tyre) {1 mile = 63,360" btw} In the case of 215/40x17" tyres, the circumference is: 74.68" Your MPH calculation would be: MPH = (60 x 1000rpm) / (848.41 x 4.444 x 0.738) MPH = 60000 / 2782.51 MPH = 21.56 in 5th gear per 1000rpm Think i've got the calcs right. I've a spreadsheet with all the formula in it which makes life quicker and simpler than buggerin' about with calculators.

Load cover?

Mine were what gearbox oil was used at the clutch/flywheel change, as according to first paragraph this is when the problems started?

Nice when it turns out to be a cheap fix.