AlanG

The aftermarket knocklink sensor is usually mounted on the inlet manifold or on the rear of the engine close to the centre (where the gearbox meets the engine). It will have two thin black wires (joined together side by side)leading to it . As an aside, somebody can correct me if i'm wrong, but if there's det, then surely the ecu will be retarding the igniton cause the cars' original sensor would detect it?

As Nelsdir says... Forgot about the reset.. doh! Told you it's a long time since i had a std ecu!..

Just had a think Fee... Rather than disconnect the boost solenoid (which is tucked into the corner of the strut tower on the drivers side and has either 2 or 3 small hoses attached to it), it may be better to run a small hose from the outlet of the turbo compressor to the wastegate. Reason for this is that you may get a check engine light coming on with the solenoid disconnected (can't remember. It's been that long since i had a std ecu!). Running a hose between the compressor outlet and the wastegate will reduce your boost pressure to around 7 psi and so less likely to cause any det. The reason for having a boost solenoid on the car is to allow the car to run more boost, governed by the ecu, yet if the solenoid fails, the car will only produce whatever the wastegate is set at. In your case, approximately 7psi. Hope this makes sense!! Having said that, if you're not confident in whats going on under the bonnet, i would leave alone and try a little more NF to put your mind at rest. I really don't think there's much wrong provided the car hasn't been modified since the rolling road day. To check the error codes, there are two conectors under the dashboard on the drivers side. A pair of black ones, and a pair of green ones. Connect like for like. When you switch on the ignition, ignore the noises you might hear (fan, or a solenoid clicking) and look at the check engine light. If it flashes in what looks like a sequence, this will be the error code for whatever sensor has failed. For example if the check engine light flashes 2 flashes one after another, then a slight pause and then four flashes one after another, this indicates an error code of 24. There is a list of error codes available, but let's find out if there are any in the first place. And remember when you finish checking, to disconnect the two sets of plugs, otherwise the car will drive like a burst couch!

Having a re-read of what you've told us so far, it would appear that the car was on the rollers and was fine, then you added a knocklink after and now you're seeing activity on it. If the knocklink was fitted and there has been no activity seen at all (or not noticed) and now there is, then the variable here, (if the car hasn't been modified since) is the fuel the car is running on. Does that make any sense? But yes, as said on here. probably worth a quick check by someone local to you that knows about these things.

When you're getting amber. Is this at high(ish) revs? If so, this is probably just background noise from the engine. It sounds like you're getting amber though the moment you touch the throttle. Add a little more NF and see if that helps. Again it sounds like the NF is added as a "guesstimate", so it could be there isn't enough in the tank at the moment. Sorry bout the "disconnect the solenoid bit". Didn't know what you knew about the car!

If it's only just started showing reds or indeed any activity, then somethings changed. It could be down to the fuel your using or not enough NF. As a quick check, disconnect the boost control solenoid and try the car again. Because the car will be using less boost, you should have less activity. If it's still going bananas, then something else is going on.

Okay. Has it been doing this since the knocklink was fitted?

Is it an import? and do you know what boost you're running?

What happened at the last meet?

<< who is OBX????? >> OBX became popular a couple of years back when folks started lookin' into aftermarket headers. Gruppe-S and OBX were the ones most bandied about for reasonable cost and good quality and there was even a group buy IIRC. Difference between the two is basically one was an un-equal length and the other, equal length. Quality were similar for both. Where some aftermarket manifolds became out of favour was down to the exchange rate and so folks looked to price being everything, so there is a rash of cheap aftermarket manifolds out there which some have shown not to be as reliable as others. It's the old adage, you get what you pay for..

Everybuddy got a set then? lol

Sorry Johnny, no spare caps.

Brill!! Cheers Dougster.

<< Nice avatar, Al. >> And just to confuse Dave, i changed the avator cause the car looks better than i do!!

Ta. Not a very big pic is it? If you want bigger i can mail it, or somebody can host it.

They all look much the same as this one. ?? How d'you show pics on here instead of a link?....

I'll try n get a pic today. They're up in the loft, so will need to dig 'em out. Car going v. well thanks. Scary stuff 1.65-1.7 bar at the moment. Still a bit more to come.

PM's sent out.

Young at heart tho'...

OBX equal length manifold and up-pipe for sale. Brand new. Never been fitted on car. Contact me on mines@scoobyturbo.freeserve.co.uk if interested

4x 7"x17" RL7's 50mm offset gold in colour, suit classic 4 half decent Avons on them, ready to use. Can be contacted on mines@scoobyturbo.freeserve.co.uk if interested.