Just had a think Fee...
Rather than disconnect the boost solenoid (which is tucked into the corner of the strut tower on the drivers side and has either 2 or 3 small hoses attached to it), it may be better to run a small hose from the outlet of the turbo compressor to the wastegate.
Reason for this is that you may get a check engine light coming on with the solenoid disconnected (can't remember. It's been that long since i had a std ecu!). Running a hose between the compressor outlet and the wastegate will reduce your boost pressure to around 7 psi and so less likely to cause any det.
The reason for having a boost solenoid on the car is to allow the car to run more boost, governed by the ecu, yet if the solenoid fails, the car will only produce whatever the wastegate is set at. In your case, approximately 7psi.
Hope this makes sense!!
Having said that, if you're not confident in whats going on under the bonnet, i would leave alone and try a little more NF to put your mind at rest. I really don't think there's much wrong provided the car hasn't been modified since the rolling road day.
To check the error codes, there are two conectors under the dashboard on the drivers side. A pair of black ones, and a pair of green ones. Connect like for like.
When you switch on the ignition, ignore the noises you might hear (fan, or a solenoid clicking) and look at the check engine light.
If it flashes in what looks like a sequence, this will be the error code for whatever sensor has failed.
For example if the check engine light flashes 2 flashes one after another, then a slight pause and then four flashes one after another, this indicates an error code of 24. There is a list of error codes available, but let's find out if there are any in the first place.
And remember when you finish checking, to disconnect the two sets of plugs, otherwise the car will drive like a burst couch!