AlanG

[] Ahh.. i see now. So did you get it sorted?

I don't get it. [] Why do you need to remove the grill for a number plate? If it's the plastic screws, why not drill them out and if it's metal screws drill a hole in the centre of the screw and use easi-outs?

That was one of the attempts, yes. It's still in the engine bay for the moment tho'... []

Not a very clear pic i'm afraid Peter but this is what the Apexi solenoid looks like. The ones that Steve sells look more or less identical. As for RS, they are trade only i believe, not sure if they would sell you a solenoid over the counter, though they might if you gave cash. I tend to order stuff through my work if i can convince the gaffers it's for a job! [] Don't know how much they are from Steve but i'd imagine you're looking at around £40-50. Give him a ring, it will be the easier option and next day delivery. The only other thing in my mind is you may not need a different solenoid. It could be that the std 3 port will do the job. That wasn't the case with my set-up but you might find you don't need an alternative, so i'd be inclined to use what is there already and if it needs changed, then look for alternatives than spend cash unnecessarily.

I thought you had an AVC-R Peter. The solenoid comes in the kit. You should be able to get the alternative (24V) solenoid from the likes of RS, or if you don't want to bugger about searching on their site, Steve Simpson has them in stock from a local supplier. Drop him a mail or give him a phone. Yes it is better than the std 3 port. With the external wastegate on my car, i changed to the Apexi solenoid and that gave better boost control (i had issues with the std 3 port not getting the control i wanted). Steve thought his solenoid would be even better, so fitted it, but made no difference but was on a par with the Apexi unit.

The AVC-R will make setting up the boost quick and simple plus you have in gear boost control which you won't have with the GEMS unless it's the 32 bit version (so i'm told). The GEMS can control your boost no problem if you don't fancy any additional hardware (that's my choice, let the ecu do the lot if it can). My advice would be to use the APexi 3 port solenoid as it has more flexibility in controlling the boost than a typical 3 port solenoid or 2 port. If you don't fancy using your Apexi solenoid cause you might want to sell the kit, you can use a 24V AC solenoid which looks identical and does the exact same thing. (Yes, you read it right, 24V AC). There not expensive.

The FSE will be fine at that level of tune. I never had a problem. Don't know if you do all the work yourself or not (apart from mapping). If you do, then you'll need a pressure gauge to set your base fuel pressure. If not, then it won't matter so much cause whoever fits the stuff should be aware it will need to be set to the right pressure.

Davie How far do you intend to tune your car? If you've got an oldish Impreza which has done a few miles, it might have been a good thing to buy a new pump and an uprated one at that cause they're cheap to buy, but imo for 300bhp, your tmic may be better than your std one (again depends on what year of car), but you'll still suffer from heatsoak when in traffic. Fuel pressure reg? Still don't think you'll need it if you have 440's. Worthwhile if you've got 380's in though ( <MY99 ). Not trying to put you off, far from it, you spend what you like on your car. I just reckon that for 300bhp (depending what model) it's not really necessary to buy some the stuff that's seen as a common "must have" first purchase when tuning the car. Future proofing, yes... but if that's all where you want to be (300bhpand no more)then if i were doing it all again, i wouldn't bother. Despite my opinion, to answer your question on fpr, some people have problems with the FSE. I had one and never had any real issues with it. The only thing i would say about putting your new pump and future regulator in, is that you will need to budget for your car to be re-mapped as the fuelling will be different if it's not set up correctly. One thing you don't want is too rich a mixture in any area of the rev band (vacuum and on boost) as this will lead to bore wash which thins your oil out and accelerates wear on your engine. Conversely, too lean a mixture will cause rough running, higher temps and the definite risk of detonation. If you don't want to re-map the car, then you'll have to make sure you run enough boost to get your mixture right i.e. not too rich and also enough octane in the fuel, so that you don't suffer from detonation. To do this you'll need a good AFR meter to check on fuelling and some form of det monitoring like a set of DIY det cans to listen for detonation. (Easy and cheap to do) The FSE regulator to get if that's what your buying is a 1:1 regulator, not the 1.7:1 rising rate regulator.

Un beknown to me, i used the camera video thingy on my phone for your last run,(not the video camera from earlier) but didn't know there was a time limit for video footage, so all i've got of your clean run is a sort of "BRAAPP!!" for about ten feet and that was it....Before that was you coming in to the start line....

Your last run of the day was a clean launch John. My only vids of the day were a smart clean run from the white Impreza followed a few cars later by some guy in a red one who must have taken a wrong turning and was actually looking for the antiques showroom car park.... []

P18 AFAIK. VF23 has P18 also. VF22 has P20.

"Heard that about AVA too which can upto double your power in one run." Excellent! Not too far away from me, so i'd be pretty chuffed at having the first proven 1000bhp Impreza! [][] Back on topic..... Plenty ways to swing a cat to get 300bhp. I wouldn't bother with a fuel pressure regulator at that level. One of the reasons for changing the regulator is to accomodate for injectors which are too small. With the '99 cars having 440cc injectors, these can cope with 300 bhp even with the std regulator. Same with the fuel pump. It should be fine at that level providing both items are in good condition and not tired. Don't get me wrong, changing the fuel pump and regulator is a good thing cause you're future proofing your mods and also providing more headroom or leeway should the std parts turn out to be marginal in their limits but not strictly necessary imo. I ran 300 bhp back somewhere around early 2000 and it wasn't common then to have aftermarket pumps and regulators as you see banded about now. I think, in bigdavies case though, he won't stop at 300.... [] the bug bites you, so as an insurance policy if you like, it might be better to buy these two components. As for turbo, you can pick up a VF23 for peanuts compared to the TD05, though the TD05 is the better bet because it can be rebuilt cheaply enough and also modified for future power upgrades whereas the VF series are limited in these respects. Intercooler? Again for that level i wouldn't bother with a front mount. I only say that cause the thread starter mentions he's on a budget. The std top mount intercooler has its' limitations, mainly heatsoak and so most people want something different to get rid of that, but does it matter in the real world? Yes, you'll get heatsoak by driving in traffic and the temps will build up under bonnet but out on the open road with plenty cooling air feeding into the scoop, heatsoak isn't an issue.

It'll be close wuz (seriously) Tell Sam to get his finger oot and tell him i told ya to say that! []

So does wuz (but that's a different forum) []

And back again! []

Have replied to PM Les []

Here's a pic of the later pump and reservoir and you'll see what i mean about the feed pipe connection.

It's not a big job to replace the pump/reservoir but i don't know what your capabilities are in doing mechanical jobs. Your best bet in doing the job is to replace the assembly complete rather than trying to do the reservoir itself in case the reservoir doesn't fit on to the pump. To fit the whole assembly, i would drain the oil from the reservoir with a syringe, then remove the feed and return pipes. From that point i would use a socket set and undo the bolts holding the pump to the bracket which is bolted to the engine. You can undo the bolts by placing your socket through the holes of the pulley. (after taking off the belt tension and removing the belt). Remove the pump and check the fittings for the feed side hose can be used on the later pump. I'd still check the seal is okay or even there on the cap first though. And make sure the oil level isn't too high.

It actually looks like it may be coming from the reservoir cap. The pic looks like the reservoir itself has a film of oil on it which would indicate this. Maybe worth checking the seal in the cap. Other thing is make sure the oil level is at the right level as well. There are two markings for hot and cold on the dipstick. Judging by the other photos i can't see much in the way of a leak in the suspected areas of the connections themselves, they look fine. If it's not the cap and /or level that's the problem, i'd say it is where the reservoir is bolted onto the pump (not the 3 bolts that are holding the reservoir to the bracket) To fit the new one, it looks like your pressure side connection is different to the later model. The return side could probably fit though. You may also have to remove that shield which fits over your PS pulley as that looks to be a different size.

Don't bother draining it. Remove pressure cap on your header tank and make sure the water level is full. Refit cap. Squeeze the radiator hose next to the PS pump(while running the engine) (the one that goes to the radiator) several times and see if bubbles come up into your expansion tank. Also squeeze the two heater matrix hoses at the bulkhead next to your clutch release arm. Check your water level in the expansion tank while doing this.

Can you post a pic of your PS pump/reservoir to see what it looks like?

In both cases if water has been fine up until recently and no work has been done on the cars to necessitate draining the water system, i'd place a bet on (one or all) head gasket, water pump,thermostat failure. Check if you have water staining down at the pump first, then check what sort of smoke you get out the back. Thick white is a definite gasket failure.

Could be the steering rack itself.. maybe check the steering arms when you feel the clunk?

Hi gordyq There's not a lot to the PS system and so not a lot can go wrong. You basically have a pump which has a drive pulley on it and so there will be a seal where the shaft goes from inside the pump to the pulley. You have a reservoir which sits on top of the pump and will be sealed so that the fluid is contained within. You have a feed and a return pipe. On the feed pipe, this will be the highest pressure cause it feeds your steering rack from the pump. The return from the steering rack goes back to the reservoir. Two other areas for leakage are the connections (feed and return) and they are on the rack itself. Bit of a bitch to get to and tightem with everything in place, but it can be done. If there's nothing obvious but it's definitely leaking at the pump/reservoir area, i would get everything clean in that area and dry. Start the car, turn the wheel to get pressure and see what's happening. Find the highest point that you see fluid. That's where it's coming from. It could be something like a hairline crack in the reservoir, but not likely. I'd be surprised.

Are the pins in place which secure the driveshafts to the gearbox shafts? If you can check underneath and see the track rod ends are okay. What about the anti-roll bar bushes? Check the wheel bearings have no play. Check the track control arm bushes for play (get someone to wiggle the steering wheel while you have a look) Might not be underneath at all. Could be the steering column shaft has play in it and could give a clunk. Get your arm down by the turbo and try and check the steering UJ for play.