AlanG

My engine was happiest at 1.4 bar on the TD05-06/20G. Didn't feel stressed at that and v. torquey. My thoughts at the time were that i had done about 35000 miles on that engine and the output was close to twice as much over standard..so felt i should look for another engine which would be able to take what i could throw/ afford to throw at it, hence being concerned at the time looking at gauges etc. At that time, no one *really* knew if they would stay together at that level cause there hadn't been std engines having done '000's of miles at that state of tune. Plenty at 300-350, but not much more. I ended up selling the engine while it was still in good condition to fund the new one. Never used a drop of oil despite all the different turbos and mods done to it over the years.

I ran 1.4 bar to get over 400 on the 2 litre Dave. With the hindsight of experience now from other owners, it would appear the std engine is quite happy with 1.4 bar dependant on mods.

I wouldn't drive it at all Craig (if possible) if it's broken a blade. Continuing to drive the car *may* cause further problems if the rest of the compressor wheel rubs on the housing which is probably likely.

lol.

I ended up with one hole in the stat drilled 3/16" Grant. This is on a 78 degree stat. Yes, 2.5 Passengers tend to end up in the back seat at 1.6 bar, let alone 2 bar!! I'm just grateful i've got a steering wheel to hold on to!! lol H*ll knows what the passenger does when the pedals floored. I need all my concentration elsewhere!

When i first ran my new engine i felt my temps were on the high side and also fluctuated to a degree that caused me concern. i.e. wide swings of temperature. What was happening was the (uprated) radiator would eventually have water so cold, it was shutting in the thermostat, yet the water on the engine side was hot. This caused water temps on the gauge to be quite high, then when the stat did open (as the rad heated up) , there was a rush of cold water which brought the temp down on the gauge. Basically it cycled like this constantly. Running a drilled thermostat allows there to always be a flow of water through the radiator irrespective of thermostat setting and so water temps remain fairly even throughout the system. Some have mentioned concern about warm up time but with the stat i have just now, it heats up as quick as i would expect a std car. I tried a couple of thermostats with different number and size of holes and what i have now has given me no issues at all and responds as a std car would despite the power the car is giving just now. I also don't have any overflow problems as yet, though i'm only running 1.65 bar. We'll see what happens when the boost is upped to 1.85/2.0 bar.

Never had a problem since drilling the thermostat..

<< Had heaters blasting once temp gauge started to rise again. Cold air and no difference >> As grant says, it sounds like an airlock. what's the water level now? Can't see how it's a GEMS problem if the car has been running fine up 'til now. Map doesn't change on its own.

'kin 'ell Was there not meant to be like a dozen or so peeps going to this? << Will there be another one?....I doubt it >> Don't blame you..

I should read what is writ in future... I see you've got a bosch pump...

I'd be surprised if the fuse needs to be changed for a higher rated one Fai. I run a 280Litre/hr pump in mine with std fuse. Don't know what std fuel pumps are rated for but Walbro's (assuming that's what you got) are 255Litre/hr. Play it by ear i'd say and try and remember what the last thing that happened if it goes again.

Hee hee. S'funny how a reply can be misinterpreted. DOH!

<< Give us a shout if it happens this week. >> PMSL. Cool. You volunteering to babysit?

lol. We thought it did last night!! Ha ha ha..

lol. Clare doing well but tired now Dave. Wants it over with now. I still hope to get down to TOTB though but it'll be a close call i think!!

Ahh!! that's nice. You'll get brownie points for giving her the sympathy vote!! lol

Hello Dave. I thought everybody was up at Knockhill today.

Can't see it being a map problem? If the car was running okay after it was mapped. What do you mean by the alarm playing up? Symptoms?

I've got a little plan for it soon in the next few weeks which should make it run that bit better than it did yesterday. It still doesn't really like running too well from a hot start but at least i know what the cause is. Where did (tokyo) go between the posts ??

Hi Fai Yes the meal was fine, thanks. . A little re-heat when i got home and it was nice and and hot again! Hope you get the car sorted out okay and nice to meet you. The best bit was " is it a PPP ?" Made my day that did.. Hello Brian. << Feature in this months' Scooby Magazine >> Tha car has changed a little bit since the shoot was done. Looks a bit different now!

Best of luck in your test and glad to see another driver wanting to improve his driving. I've been an IAM member for a number of years now, but remember the test vivdly to this day. The test consisted of 2 hours driving and talking (not compulsory now but recommended). Strangely enough i thoroughly enjoyed it, but i suppose that may have been down to not having to worry about passing or not cause i had a driving license. It does make you very much more aware as a driver. Enjoy the day when it comes.

Wheels now sold. Thanks for interest guys.

Yep, the majority are fitted to the engine block as close to the original as possible. This makes the most sense and maximises the likelyhood of picking up any engine noise. It will still detect det on an inlet manifold runner though as the frequency passes through from the cylinder chamber up into the head and on to the inlet manifold..

<< Fee isn't the only one i know having problems like this at the mo either....and i don't mean me! >> Doesn't mean anything or make sense to me..

The original sensor is fitted near to the centre of the block at the back of the engine. The knocklink sensor tends to be fitted on one of the inlet manifold runners or on the block on a spare threaded hole as near to the original sensor as possible, usually close to the gearbox bellhousing.