AlanG

With the engine off and vacuum removed from system, you should have a solid pedal when you press the brake. Sounds like you still have air in the system. For all the brake fluid you should use, i would bleed all 4 brakes starting with the brake furthest from the master cylinder and working towards the brake nearest the master cylinder. i.e. passenger side rear first and finish with drivers side front. How are you bleeding the brakes?

The removal of the bias valve wasn't to give a more solid pedal Dave, it was to allow a better pedal feel and brake progression. Do the Willwoods have 2 bleed valves and are they at the top?... With the engine switched off, do you have a solid pedal after you have pumped the vacuum out of the servo?

"Please note there are a few car salesmen on here I'd certainly appreciate an honest appraisal on what my cars true value is. []

You could always sell privately and get more for your car, but understand not everyone wants the hassle. Agree about the "variable" part ex price. imo no dealer wants to give you a rough idea what your cars worth until you tell them what you're interested in buying, then you're under typical salesman pressure to buy the bloody thing. Puts me right off even speaking to these guys in the first place.

Cheap as chips

Can you get the allen key through the 1/2" drive end of a socket? If so fit a suitable size socket over the nut to keep the nut in one piece then unscrew the nut through the drive end of the socket. It sounds like you've overtightened the nuts in the first place if you've rounded the allen key. If that's the case, what to do is get a punch and a hammer and punch each of the hexagon edges of the allen key fitment part of the nuts into the centre (not too much), then chap the allen key into place to keep it secure on the nut and so not round off the allen key or the edges of the nuts. That'll be the old engineering head in me coming out then... []

imo the only thing special about is that you have something different from the norm. Driving it feels no different from any other classic. The interior is familiar surroundings, gearbox, acceleration etc etc. All typical of the jap sti stuff. One of the only ways you know it's different from the ordinary Impreza's is when you step outside and see the difference. You don't really notice it when you're in the driving seat. ( and yes, i have driven them, very low mileage too)

It should cut out at some point Peter. Might be 20 seconds or thereabouts, but should still cut out. If you've got a fuel pressure gauge, check the pressure doesn't go to zero when you switch off the ignition. Apologies for thread hijack, this should be talked about elsewhere. Alan

Continually with the engine not running and ignition on? It runs longer than a std ecu but should still cut out eventually.

No PM yet on this forum Peter!

Probably close enough james! My old car had the 3rd highest terminal of the day i believe with 130mph. New owner had 3rd gear synchro problems since the start of day and managed a best of 11.2 @ 130mph with a 2.0s 60ft time. Definitely a 10 second car in the wings. Billet selector rod broke on his final run, so that was his day ended. Still had everything in the car like spare wheel,jack, tools, interior etc plus it was his first time ever attempting a 1/4 mile, so did well considering. Shame i never kept it and ran a 1/4 mile. I might have been able to go on the 1/4 mile times list! []

Not sure what you mean dipsy. The rotated setup has a different flange for the up-pipe to suit the GT series turbos and downpipe flange. The only real difference is the shape of the downpipe because of the angle of the turbo outlet. The up-pipe is "similar" to standard, not a great deal in it. Because of the size of the inlet (usually 4"), it's better to rotate to allow an inlet pipe to fit plus give the inlet air a straighter path to the compressor.

At least everyones okay, that's the main thing. Now you've got to hope you get a decent payout for the car....

Imagine a similar set up in a Classic. No hold on you do not need to imagine, you just need to remember [] Seems ages ago now....

hee hee. []Didn't realise it was a 2 litre higgy. It'll be a quick little buggy, that's for sure. [Y]

Well, accidents are never a nice thing to see or have but providing everyone is fine and uninjured, then let insurance deal with the lumps of metal. As for the "hippo" and other unnecessary derogatory comments, it looks to me like that female is pregnant rather than having eaten to excess, so irrespective of who is to blame, all concerned have had a shock and will have learned from it. The unborn child is what i'd be worrying about after an accident like that. It must be nice to know that you feel you are all perfect

485bhp should be easy enough. I'd bank on 550bhp with a 0.7 comp housing than the 0.6 that's on there, but you're not a kick in the teeth away from it. []

GT30R. Good choice, recommended. []

The only *real* change from std is the exhaust which wil give you problems when you go to MOT the car cause it's about to run out, so you'll need to sort that. You'll need to refit a cat to pass though not 100% sure cause it's an old car and an import. Find out what fuel it has been run on as well i.e. has it been tuned to accept UK fuels. Personally i'd be wary of the car having an MOT about to run out but that may change having seen and driven the car. I only say that cause you've got a tight budget. Nothing worse than buying a "pup" and finding you have to spend more money than you have to get it roadworthy. Have you got insurance costs yet?

I'd be inclined to eliminate the plugs first since it's a quick and easy job to do. Reason for this is that the fault only happens at a certain point. If it was coilpacks, you would more than likely have the fault all the time, though of course they can break down only under load. Check the leads for signs of corrosion inside the ends if they look like they've had a life and maybe brittle as well.

Running lean? Plug gaps too big?

You could check both horns are actually working... When one fails, it sounds like "peep peep, s'cuse me can you please let me through?...", whereas with both working properly, it should sound like "oi! get tae f*** oot ma road, am cummin through!"

Cheers Derek. Supplement has been forwarded on.

Got it Derek. You have the info you need. []

If you're going to be summoned to go to court, the fine will be dictated by ability to pay. You may also be able to plead guilty by letter and save the court costs. It will be either more points, low fine or larger fine and less points. Circumstances surrounding the speeding offence will also be taken into consideration when deciding an appropriate punishment for the offence