AlanG

2.2 bar is too low imo. If you have set it for 2.2 bar, then when vac pipe is re-connected to FPR, fuel pressure will drop, because engine is below atmospheric i.e. you will be in vacuum. Fuel pressure varies with vacuum and boost pressure, so must be set initially with vac pipe off. Also, the larger sized injectors will need sufficient pressure to gain a good nozzle spray pattern (atomisation) and with 550's, i think you'll struggle for good atomisation with a pressure as low as 2.2 bar (if that is with vac pipe disconnected) However, you say it sounds like you're running on 3 cylinders. If it was alright before, then i suspect it's something to do with the injector install, or the injectors themselves. My car was a '99 admittedly but i could idle and rev my 2.5 with 740's on a std ecu with no problem, that's why i kept the std ecu, to check issues i had with the car to eliminate or confirm any ecu or map problem. As a suggestion, i would check you maintain some form of fuel pressure after you have switched the ignition off.

I'd set it at 3 bar (atmospheric) initially. This will give good enough atomisation. When you tune and max out the injectors, you can increase it to give more scope, but will need a re-map to suit.

[Y]

Sounds like it's just corrosion on the flywheel caused by the plate siezure. Do a couple of hard(ish) launches to clean the faces up.

Don't think there's anyone now somehow. I wouldn't be surprised if the airports closed for a couple of days. As you said earlier just at the start of the summer holidays. Nightmare and one that will stay with innocents for the rest of their lives. What about kids seeing this? Shudder to think.

I always thought they did this kind of thing for their beliefs, so can't understand why they "jumped ship", so to speak.

Whereabouts in Paisley?

Fortunately they didn't get into the terminal building...

Passenger has extensive burn injuries and is not expected to survive. Driver has minor leg injuries and has been transferred to Govan.

If your car is for road use only, i'd recommend the P1 suspension rather than coilovers. I've had over the years: Prodrive Bilsteins (blue) Prodrive Bilsteins Professional (silver) AVO coilovers Leda coilovers Cusco coilovers (the best for my style of driving,but hard for road) and P1 shocks and springs For road use, the last option was terrific

Good stuff. FWIW i never changed the rear brakes from std despite 600bhp. Removing the rear bias valve did increase wear on the rear discs/pads, so they were doing a little more, but in 8 years of ownership i only changed the rear pads once (std pads, not uprated). Save your money unless you like bling.

Is it knurled knob adjusters on the shocks Steve? If so, it sounds like you'll need to try and prise them off and use molegrips or whatever. If they're old, they may have seized. Was there any evidence of pitting on the pistons or oil weep on the shocks? If it's a screwdriver type adjustment, they may be goosed internally in which case you probably can't do anything with them.

I would imagine that they have said what they said because the exhaust is restrictive (most std systems are to an extent) and a front mount will maintain lower air temps. An air filter change isn't required until a certain power output has been achieved. I'll say it again though, they are not Subaru specialists and don't advocate being Subaru specialists. I'm not saying their great, i'm relaying my experience with them from over 20 years ago! I have never used them since for anything. £75 is expensive for a RR run imo. Agree about the steptoes yard. It's always been like that and doesn't instil any confidence to a potential customer.

I tried them once. Couldn't get a proper reading and the engine was buzzed to almost 9000rpm by mistake. Could have been an expensive mistake, luckily it survived. It wasn't their fault that they couldn't set up the RR for my spec of car because they had "old" software which annoyed them. The plan was for Gerry to install the "updated" software and get a second run on the rollers, but the "two weeks" to sort, turned out to be a lot longer. This was many many moons ago and i never heard from them again. Don't know if they ever got the RR fixed, but they weren't happy with Dasteks service at the time and i don't blame them, after all it's not a cheap piece of kit. It would have to be guaranteed that the rolling road has proven to be consistant before i would go back to Hillington. No offence, but engines ain't cheap to rebuild.

I'm going to agree with rapidcossie here. Since when did AVA ever say they knew about tuning Subaru's! They have a rolling road. That's it. They specialise in Fords. So what? They've done this for years. I think this might stem from way back when a rolling road day was organised years ago and their equipment went tits up. Yes, people came from far and wide (very far and wide) and were left in the dark hanging around waiting to see what was going to happen, but they did try to repair the RR. Where it all went pete tong was that everyone was cold and weren't kept informed i what was happening, so all left disgruntled. All that attended were offered a free run when the equipment was repaired but did they take them up on the offer? No, it felt better in the comfort of an armchair to slag them off. Bear in mind at that time there were few rolling roads to go to or were aware of. Am i biased towards them? No. Have i used their rolling road for my old scoob? No. Why not? Cause i found them to be expensive for a rolling road run, simple as that. It was better to participate in an organised rolling road day out where it was cheaper to get a run plus meet up with like minded individuals. Was i happy with their service/knowledge when i had my Fords? Yes. Did i find they were sometimes awkward to talk to? Yes, but once tuned in to how they operate a good relationship was established. This was 20 years ago mind you. I don't know what they are like now.

Doubtful, unless you've taken the guard underneath the bonnet vent away

Nope, new one i'm afraid. You can buy just the sensor though rather than the whole kit which is very expensive. Symptoms are more in line with the fault code you've just given. Is the air filter secure? If not, you'll run the risk of breaking another MAF sensor.

Curiosity, have you tried an ecu reset?

Is it definitely code 12?

Code 12: Starter switch line.

It was 2 years old by then. 160 at the wheels made for a quick car (back then, not now!! lol), but it was a pain in the butt due to torque steer. It made me move on to the Cosworths. So much more relaxed.... ahhh..

Brings back memories..... Back in '88 i had a 1.6 RS Turbo which gave 160bhp at the wheels. At the time the Power Engineering 2.0 conversions were giving the same output. []

Having the AP's set up incorrectly like you mention JohnnyR6 would cause uneven wear of the brake pads. Your brakes wouldn't be at their best however until the pads had worn down to the shape of the set up

Don't do too many things at the one time z1000. It sounds like the air is still at the front end since the back brakes are locking up. You can compress air but not fluid, so the fronts are doing very little. I would have kept the master cylinder topped up and just added dot 5 to the system. What would have happened (if your fluid was dirty or darker colour) is that you would have seen the fresh dot 5 fluid coming out of that particular caliper. Anyway, onwards and upwards. Are you bleeding the brakes yourself or with an assistant?

Were the brakes fine before you fitted the new front calipers? I don't know the Willwood kit, but do they have a link pipe between the two halves of the caliper? If so, it shouldn't matter which one is bled, though i would bleed the nipple nearest to the disc and then the outer nipple. I also assume the master cylinder didn't empty out during the bleeding process and hence bring air into the system? Regards bias removal, I have never had a rear wheel lock up in the time i had my car with it removed (about 4 years). I've never had the ABS activate either from the rear with the bias valve removed and i've driven the car in all weathers. What it did improve was brake "feel" and gave better feedback on what my brakes were doing, whereas before i had a solid pedal but felt remote from the car. I would do it again if it warranted it on the car.