fiestajohn

Not used them myself but I think I saw Ace in Carnwath recommended somewhere. clicky

They do seem to do the right ones (KLC32) for your car according to the Whiteline website (and if Duncan at Hypertech says so that is good enough for me) I would have another go at fitting them with the weight of the car on its wheels if I were you though, to see if they sit any better.

I don't know much about newage cars but I know that classics with alloy arms use different drop links with spherical rod ends. What did your old drop links look like?

I think they are the wrong drop links for your car (with alloy arms) They look like the ones for steel bottom arms to me.

You should change drop links with the weight of the car on its wheels. It can be done on the ground without ramps, but it is a bit awkward.

Obviously you should inform your insurer of any mods (including stickers), but I am sure there is not a LAW against fitting numbers on your car. Cars competing in racing, hillclimbs, sprints, etc should remove their competition numbers before driving on the road. It is a rule in the Motor Sports Association blue book.

AFAIK it is not illegal to have numbers on your doors, it is competition cars that must remove/cover their numbers before driving on the road.

Definitely reduces it. The full set up described by "geo" will obviously be better but cost a lot more.

I had a Forge recirculating dump valve fitted to my car for a while, and I tried all the different combinations of springs and shims but I could never get it working right, so eventually I just put the standard one back on.

I have left the standard front one on (19mm?) and fitted an adjustable 22mm rear one along with uprated drop links all round, seems good to me.

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Villa agree £7.8m fee for Cuellar

JB Coachworks in Well Street, Paisley gets good reviews See this old topic

Having 190bhp helps

Painted matt black with different wheels and exhaust it would look ok. But why use a RA with its lightweight parts and then fill it full of heavy stereo?