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johnnyr6

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Everything posted by johnnyr6

  1. Why not try the subaru breaker in the paisley area. i can't recall the number but if you google it you should find it. johnny
  2. be careful with a clutch from ebay, when i was looking for 1 there were a few cheap exedy organic clutches for sale on ebay which were actually just a standard clutch. johnny
  3. Wish i could make this but too much on tomorrow. Good luck Chris i'm sure you'll come away with a low 10. Johnny
  4. Fantastic news m8, chuffed for ye, hope to see this in action at some point soon. How does it feel on the road? Johnny
  5. Could be anything. Does it happen in all gears? Do you know what boost your hitting when it happens? Could be an ignition fault or overboosting. Good luck with it, Johnny
  6. Ah, my car at the mo is nearly a rolling shell. The engine is off to a good home, box and diff are out. The interior apart from the top dash is out. Still got a lot of stripping to do. I just can't decide which way to go with it but i've got plenty of time and i'm in no rush. I've got a couple of bikes to sort/ tidy up over the winter then i'll get back into the car. At the mo i still want it as a usable road car so i won't be going too far with it. Johnny
  7. Don't even think about it!!! Johnny. Chris, hope all goes well with the mapping and it'll be great to see it at full potential. Remember, wear clean underwear on the 20th... Johnny
  8. It's not very often that the ecu is at fault. Where is the leak coming from? Is it an aftermarket vta you've got fitted? I take it it's not making full boost which may be a weak spring in the dump valve. Anyway if you think the ecu is at fault i'd speak to Andy Forrest and like most on here i'd recommend Steve Whitson (SW Motorsport) to check it out for you. Good luck getting it sorted. Johnny
  9. a 3.9 diff won't work, you need to match the diff to the box. johnny
  10. All will be fine + you'll be ok with your ecu. The heads can cause probs when interchanging, as in phase1 heads wont work with a phase 2 inlet manifold without adaptors and work but as your using your own heads you'll be fine. If you go for a long block stick to a phase 1 or 1.5 ie v1 to v4 that way you can use your own inlet and the wiring etc will be the same. Don't know why piston slap would be due to a 1998 but i would have thought there was too much movement from the piston so only way to sort it would be a rebuild. Hope this helps. johnny
  11. i ran oe spec discs from camskill with ebc yellowstuff pads and they were very good. That setup would be less that £200. Johnny
  12. Sounds like your car is running pretty rich. I get nearly 300 pootling on motorways. Johnny
  13. Mon the G.Mac!!! Good to hear the engine's back. If you need someone to come and take the piss as you skin yer knuckles gees a shout. Apparently my banter's legendary, just ask Colin. Johnny
  14. Good luck next weekend Chris. Glad to hear the car is running well. See you down there. Johnny
  15. Very nice, i do like the mcrae. Johnny
  16. Ahh, that tells a different story. You'll want an aftermarket ecu and get it mapped to suit as it would be rude not to play with it a bit Oh, keep it looking standard and have a great sleeper. Johnny
  17. If it's a sport it would be far easier and cheaper to sell it and buy a turbo car. You can pick up a good car for not a lot of cash these days and that would save you a lot of work and trouble. Johnny
  18. why are you changing the ecu? Can you not use your own? Johnny
  19. Sorry to hear about your engine probs m8. Good luck with the rebuild. Johnny
  20. The meeting is this week, that's the date for the shootout. Johnny
  21. that's a bit personal...
  22. the block your thinking of is a closed deck, found in early cars usually the ra model. I would sy condition and how it's been looked after is more important than mileage. My car has around 110k on it, no history but is in great condition and still goes well, pulling strong. As for buying one, Coulty's on here is an absolute bargain and although its modded more than you want i'm sure after running one for a while you'll want more so why not buy one already finished? Johnny
  23. What e said. and for fitting you want awd in perth or hypertech in bonnybridge. both have a good reputation on here. johnny
  24. Icedog, are you using a gauge for temp or the oe water temp gauge? If it's just the oe water temp your oil may well be cold when your water is at halfway. In the morning my water temp gauge hits the middle with my oil temp at 30 to 30 degrees. I have oil temp and pressure, boost, afr and knocklink and i like the peace of mind they give. Could throw away the afr though. Johnny
  25. What he says... If it was me i'd look for another engine to be safe. Johnny
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