johnnyr6

Your brave.. it's suposed to be baltic this weekend. The haggis bike autojumble is as far as i'll be travelling..lol Johnny.

I usually get the revs up to about 5 to 6k then off the clutch very quickly. On my car it seemed to give good grip without bogging down. I have never broken anything launching this way but it's not the most sympathetic way.. As for the diff, try with it (iirc) diff locked for launch then opened once into 2nd. I think this is how colin used his on the type r and he had pretty good launches with reduced wheelspin. Check out.. Johnny.

you needing a windscreen in the scoob m8? You got one yet? Johnny.

Try Hypertech, not far from you. johnny.

There are some good standard cars about but you'll need to look for one. Importing through a good importer is a good option also. As for engine life, my car with slight mods was still going strong with 110k on the clocks. The v5 or 6 is what i'd go for, it has the stronger gearbox which is stronger and rear 2pot calipers. Also check out scoobynet.com as decent cars come up for sale on there often. Johnny.

Looks like a uk turbo to me. Parts for a 2000 car or 98 on will fit fine. It is prob one thats been sitting in a showroom for a bit so registered late, there are quite a few around. Johnny.

I did this, got an exedy stage 1 clutch with little use cheap so went for it. The clutch was in good condition and kept me going for 2 years until i sold the engine. I knew where it came from and why it was coming out so had no worries. If its a good one it could be worth it. Johnny.

Cheers lads, Barry's place isn't too far from me actually, i'm in Law. Boab, cheers m8 but no need. It sounds like a knackered bearing from the cambelt area. I don't think its the alternator and i'm hoping its the alternator belt tensioner. I'll take the belt off tomorrow and see if the rumble is still there. If it is it may be the cambelt tensioner Johnny

Hi all, my wife's vectra is broken so i'm looking for somewhere decent around south lanarkshire to get it checked out. As i have no garage or time just now + don't fancy working on the drive at this time of year anyway i need a good place to take it. Anyone recommend anywhere? Cheers, Johnny.

Ah, so its the panel filter then. Should be ok then. when its time to replace the sti filter is good. As for the airbox, it depends where the holes have been drilled. As long as none are past the filter it should be fine. johnny.

I would get rid of the blitz filter (if its the induction kit) they are very good at killing mafs. Also as playsatan says if you havn't already get a vent cover. Hope it stays healthy for you. Johnny

a wee touch of the goats on the way. johnny

The ICV is sticking out the top of the throttle body. The bit with the black plug on it. If your car is a phase 1 you'll need to adapt the wiring obviously, but not a difficult job. Johnny

Fantastic, great write up Fee, Well done. johnny.

A remap is defo the way to go. Why not speak to Andy F? An esl remap would work for what your after m8. Persoanlly if i was sticking with the maf thats what i'd look into. Johnny.

Boab, what boost you hitting? I've got a HKS fuel cut defender that you can either buy or borrow if you want. I've ran it for a few years with no probs but you need to be sure your getting enough fuel at the top end and are not hitting mad boost levels. Also, rather than going to the expense of 550's why not get mark (lateral performance) to modify your 440's? Cheers, Johnny.

Prob not.. Mine is a shell with windows. Thats all there is, no engine, running gear, loom etc at the mo. lol. Johnny.

Looks good neil. Did the same thing last year myself and got a pug 306, was gonna keep it till the mot ran out and get another but as it was so reliable it'll do another winter. Unfortunately my subaru is not looking as nice as it did... Yet Johnny.

Also fuel cut is the same as its controlled by the ecu. There are 2 ways to raise the fuel cut limit, A remap or the cheap option is a fuel cut defender. If you go down this route you'll defo need a fuel pressure reg. Out of interest i ran my sti at 1.2 bar using a fcd, walboro and fpr for years with no probs. I no longer need the fpr or fcd if your interested. Cheers, johnny.

Millers oils are good, i've used millers in the box and diff for years. Never used it in the engine though as i have a deal on valvolene. As for use by date, not a clue. johnny

Any exhaust paste will do neil. Johnny.

A late classic sti (TY754) box will work and probably one of the cheapest options if you get a good one. Other option is get yours rebuilt but early classic boxes may not cope well with 350, thats why i sold mine. johnny.

I've used scoobytechnix for bits, the bloke seems very good. I had no probs with him and would use them again. Never used them for work (being in glasgow thats probably obvious, well that and the fact i do my own work) but they were recommended to me by guys on 22b.com Johnny.

If it reads in mph it should be derestricted (unless you have stickers over the dials). the early cars used a mechanical speedo drive and you fit a converter which changes the speedo to mph and moves the limiter to 180mph. As for remapping thats crap, you can fit a chip to move the boost up a bit ( to around 1.1bar) or andy f can do a custom remap your ecu using esl a bit like ecutek on the later cars. If your not seeing bosst til 4k your set up needs looked at or its not the standard turbo, thats too late and if you mean 1.5bar thats high + the standard ecu will cut the fuel. johnny.

i'll tell you what you can do, Stop posting bloody pics of it on the sites. I need inspiration to get on with mine and all i can think is scrap my shell... and get a type r, which is not what i want. Johnny.