scouk

... says the guy with a WR1... swap?

No wonder there's so many serious accidents on that road.. It's a great road to drive and pretty safe too always wondered how peopel got into so much trouble on it.. I guess that's exhibit-A *sigh*

That saltire roof really suits that car! Yep! Most of the ones you see the US cars with are very similar to this but are made by a US company.. Can't remember the name. I was considering buying form from over there until I found this one I used to have an HT Autos one previously (Similar to what you find of blobs and hawks) but too many bumps and scrapes meant it had a hard life. the one I've got now is the proper subaru one they had as an option on the bugeye .. looks much better and was the one I always wanted. Got it from japperformance parts IIRC. It doesn't lower the front of the car any just keeps it flat and inline with the sides, so less chance of grounding it.. Although the HT autos one did 'feel' more effective as a splitter, Definately seemed to turn in better to high speed corners with the HT Auto's one..

Have been considering the roof vinyl idea.. It'd cover up the dodgy bit of paint which is up there until I can afford a respray..

Good way to understand what an Anti-lift kit does is to forget the name and think about the front wheel on a bike.. Whiteline themselves admit it's a really crap name for what it does.. As Baz says it pushes the contact spot of the front wheel/tyre further forward slightly which aids a little stability by increasing the wheel base slightly and effectively putting some of the front weight, back... Now let's think about the bike. Imagine you've got a bike where the handle bars and front wheel are completely vertical... What the ALK does is push the front wheel forward, think harley davidson or something.. Do you want to ride bike where the front wheel was directly below the handlebars? Let's see.. Now in a straight line this makes little difference. The 'anti-lift' part of it comes from when under acceleration the front of the car lifts up and because the struts are not as straight up and down as they were as standard but at an angle there is technically going to be less vertical "lift".. But in practice the struts actually expand more than they would normally because they are at an angle. So depending on what article you read some claim the ALK increases lift but that's just the amount the strut length increases. The important part of the ALK is cornering.. going back to the bike analogy, think of how you go round a corner on a bike either motorbike or push bike.. What is more stable and faster? Going round a corner with the bike totally upright or leaning into the corner? Any biker will tell you that you don’t steer a bike by turning the handlebars, you lean to turn the bike. As you lean you can feel the bike get into it's groove and feels like it's on rails until you pull it out of the corner and you have to pull the bike back upright to exit the bend as once it's leaned over it wants to do that ll day it's doesn't naturally want to straighten up the bike. This is very much like what happens with the ALK. As you turn in the front wheels actually lean into the corner more than standard which gives you a similar lean effect as on a bike. Simples! The other effect of the ALK is that because it forces a lean during cornering you require less camber set-up on the car! Camber is only really useful in cornering and what the ALK does in the end, is give you increased camber while cornering! Without having to have so much camber in a straight line.. Hope that sort of makes sense...

yeah I'll be there.. no worries about that one... Just nice to get the extra day afterwords to wind down and give the car a clean

Working for financial company + bank holiday weekend = long weekend Working for financial company + normal weekend = Bah-Humbug!

Just realised something.. This doesn't fall on the usual bank holiday weekend that it's done in previous years Intentional? Or just a ploy to have early adopters book for the wrong weekend ... just checking.

Modifying Limited Editions is just wrong in my book.. You own it because it's special.. Modifying it so it's unique to, you looses it origonal identity.. YOu can achieve the uniqueness with a standard model, why destroy a Special Edition.. <flame suit on>

New speakers & possibly head-unit Boost & Oil Pressure gauges Gearbox Oil change Rear anti-roll bar Replace all roll bar bushes with polybushes Anti-Lift kit Give it a damn good polish since it never got one last year See how much rust there is behind rear bumper Hopefully get back onto the remapping stuff again, not been back to it for couple years.

Blow off valves are a pretty straight forward install, 5-10 mins max. Any trustworthy mechanic should be able to do it no problem.. Or ask someone local on here to fit it for you? The Forge valve doesn't have any spring adjustment on it like the one mentioned above so it's plug-n-play as it were..

Hi John, The engine will sort of cough and splutter. mostly.. Not sure about the forge valve but on those where you can see the trumpet/output you can see the piston inside and visutally check that the piston is closing off.. But if the car is idleing fine then there's no issue there Triggering at low boost can be normal.. THe valvue effectively triggers when you lift off throttle.. What happens is the air which normally flows throught the air intake finds a closed off door and ends up getting pressurised in a sealed container. Naturally it wants to find the easiest way out.. WHich is where the BOV comes in. So as long as the pressure is more than enough to push the valuve open you'll get the effect. If you are running the same boost levels as before and you are finding it venting off a lower boost levels, it may be an early indication that the spring is getting weak.. This video clip is sort of relevant as you can see how the valve opens up.. Not all valves are adjustable like this one and most are fixed setting (Note sound quality in this video is rubbish): The dump valve is solely part of the air intake/turbo system and is unlikely to have been a cause of your other issues..

Have you been experiencing running problems since fitting it? Should point out I run a VTA valve (well hybrid, it 's variable between vta and recirc) on my impreza have have done for a couple years now always been fine. It's just worth understanding what affect a VTA valve has on the car. As I mentioned above to the best of my knowledge there has NEVER been any reports of mechincal failure as a result of having a VTA valve fitted.. and fitting one does not require a remap! The common fault comes from those where you can set the spring pre-load or have different options of springs and dont have the correct one fitted. When the car is idleing the valve should be fully closed.. If it's not you'll have problems.. Some people buy complex ones which need setting up and just try plug n play.. Or buy 2nd hand ones with a soft/worn spring which isn't suitable..

99.9% of cases.. nope no remap required.. The problems occur when you either buy a cheap one or a vent to atmosphere (VTA) one which arent setup/configured properly and the valve remains open when at idle.. therefore spewing air out to the atmosphere rather than keeping the intake closed.. There are also the issues with the VTA where the engine doesn't get the air it's expecting, because it's been vented. This can cause irregular fuelling, causing more fuel to enter the engine than should normally go in which can cause other issues. But I've never heard on any reports of failure after an aftermarket dump valve was fitted correctly. Thing is the car will always run better with a recirculating valve (one that doesn't go whoosh, psshhht, or wheeeeee!) Because the engine is running the way it's intended. Also lag between gear changes can be affected by fitting after market VTA valves because you are getting rid of already compressed air rather than re-using it, therefore having to start all over again.. Worth noting that the fuel issue can be accommodated with a decent quality remap.. What sort of dump valve were you thinking about?

Haven't seen the comments but can see where they come from.. Biggest difference is this is a professional custom build from a japanese tuning company and all the body panels match in colour, no basecoat bumpers/splitter here.. The main reason for the car is it's outrageous styling.. Not my cup of tea, normally but it just had/has so much character about it, probably because grant owned it and seeing on the highland fling was ace!.. It's a bonkers car. for sure, but it's one which is built properly. Each to their own.. I'm not a fan of P1's or 22B's, but an RB5 on the other hand Yep.. Grant sold earlier this year IIRC (or maybe it was last year).. Either way he was not the driver..

Yep.. that's where I ripped it from

That'd be this one then:

Damage doesn't look all that bad IMHO. THE fibreglass body tears up at small knocks, biggest issue is how much damage on that front right with the suspension.. From the engine shot the strut tower looks to be intact How she should look

Awww man! that's sucks.. that REALLY sucks..! That car had sooo much character about it! Especially whining it's way over the The Bealach na Ba couple years back with grant Eee aww-ing out the driver window.. Class!

Heya! Did wonder if you woudl ever return to a subaru! Where you based these days? Not sure about that classic.. But did see an older one the other day around keith with a for-sale sign on it.. Alternatively.. Ok it's not blue and it's a bugeye but low milage silver bugeye wagon for £3,500? http://www.gordonreidcarsales.co.uk/used-cars/subaru-impreza-2-0-wrx-4wd-5dr-aberdeen-201148432221115

I wanna play too! Winter meet at Knockhill anyone

Cool! may just go down that route as well.. Like you say saves qute a few £££'s and it's only really the rear end that needs tightening up ALK should sort out the initial turn in, which I've never really been happy with on the Impreza..

ARB's and ALK are on my hit list in 2012.. Little undecided on what to go for on the ARB though.. Whether just put a 22mm on rear or 22front and 24rear.. Kinda tempted just to replace both since the car is over 10years old now and the standard bushes have probably seen better days

Polished Bliss get's by vote.. Whenever I'm through that way, always try find an excuse to go in past Polished bliss and EliteCarCare are my two main sources of stuff.. But only use EliteCarCare if ordering lots of stuff (Discount available for SIDC Members). Prices are slightly cheaper than PB but delivery cost to my IV postcode from them more or less works out about the same as driving through to PB.. And' let's face it.. Any excuse Really good bunch of guys at PB and always happy to give friendly advice! If you disagree with them, you'r probably wrong!