scouk

I've got a 2nd hand PPP de-cat pipe that I got off a member on here years ago (can't remember who) Still works fine.. Also got a up-pipe from a classic (which was decatted vs my WRX which was catted) Then afterburner de-resonated pipe to the PPP backbox.. Still running standard DOwnpipe.. Going to stick with that until the cat inside dies, then replace it..

I have very similar configuration on my bugeye.. It's not ASBO terratory but had a nice growl do it, But not OT! Subtle at low rpm with the ever present drumbeat but open it up and it roars nicely! Sounds much louder outside the car than inside See this thread for a shot clip on cold start: http://forums.sidc.co.uk/topic/158661-exhaust-sound-clips/page__view__findpost__p__1446602 Once it stops snowing or piddling with rain and wind, I'll get a better clip make up..

Yeah heard about this aroudn lunchtime today.. Just read the updated news. Not good and a relatively freak accident.

T-20 days and counting....

naturally

£450 sounds like a more reasonable price I take it that's for the initial map+licence. How much does he charge for after tweaks?

Yeah it's a little baby one Hiddne behind a heatsheild. Decat pipes tend not to have hte heatsheild. The one on the WRX up-pipe is similar. The downpipe is the mahoosive one! that does most of the work.. But since most 'other' cars have their main cat where the subaru has it's 3rd cat that could be confused as teh main one, when there's still the one on teh downpipe Just make sure you local MOT station is aware of subaru configuration.. To the untrained eye, removign the 3rd cat could mislead a dopey mechanic into thinking there's no in the exahust system! FAIL!

hmnnn.. could be... Edited to add: Suggesting the 3rd cat is in place on the newages For reference. Linky to Prodrive document for Newage STi PPP upgrades - http://imdomino.imgroup.co.uk/imggb/www/subaru_accessories.nsf/975cb7cb3fbab5fc80256d3900545528/39b678d5680f22708025758300518baf/$FILE/SACC2564%20STI%202003-%20PPP%20Fitting%20Instructions.pdf

Classics had two I believe, downpipe & center pipe.. Newage WRX (at least mine) did have three.. STi's have decatted u-pipe like classics. PPP removes the center pipe (3rd cat).. But as you say not sure what woudl be considered the 'main' cat. I woudl consider the downpipe to be the major one, but no point removing that an leaving the center cat in there. Best thign to do woudl be to have a peek under the car and see if there's a cat in teh pipe just under where the driver/passenger sits. P.s. Welcome! If your interested keep an eye out for any club meets in teh Aberdeenshire area We're all a freidnly bunch.. Some mad, orther less so..

Wallpaper steamer could work.. But I wouldn't.. usign that method you are appying hot moisture to the paintwork ratehr than dry air.. More chance of damaging the paint using steam.. If no heirdryer is available then you can try a heat gun, just keep it on a low setting

As above, use a hairdryer and take it a few cm at a time.. Dont rush it. Vinyls are designed to be removed without damage! The vinyl may come off in bits at times but better than that takign teh laquer off.. Also worth delaying replacing them for at least 1 month to let the new paint cure properly, so plenty of time to get those brakes sorted!.. I know it may be tricky but try giving it at least 3 months before applying them.. 'If' the paint isn't cured/hardened properly and vinyls are stuck on, you may find if they are removed again, they take the new paint with it!!! Also I'd probably take them all off. Espeicaly those which are the same colour as you are removing.. Althogu vinyls' can last for years, they do fade slightly over time and new ones will look different to the old ones.

I got an unbranded set from teh US few years back Basically same as standard options.. But colour coded the ends rather than have them pink so it doesn't look out of place! as for the queries: 1. I fancy one of those front tower braces - as much for the look as anything else. Can I fit one of those by itself or will it throw the whole geometry setup out? Easy to fit? - Geometry should be fine as your not actually moving anything. Just make sure the car is parked up on a stable surface and don't let it rock forward or back or move the steering wheel after you remove the strut nuts (sounds painful!) 2. Lowering springs - if I buy a spring compression tool, is it simply a case of wheel off, compress old spring off, compress new spring on, wheel on, bob's yer uncle? - Worth an aligntment check. As car will sit lower, but having said that, so long as you mark the current setting on the camber bolts and set them back to the same point they were taken off, you can possibly get away without. Just make sure sure that both sides of the car have hte wheels pointing at the same angle. a crude way to check is measure the width distance between the top of the wheel and the arch. Not scientific but so long as there is some -ve camber and both sides are matching.. It'd do until you go the next step. I got aligntment check after fitting prodrive springs then again when I put coilovers on. And both times there was no change required as I made sure things were set correctly. To the trained eye you can tell if the camber is notably out or not 3. Apart from the above 2 - is there a distinct order ye should do the upgrades in? - Yeah if you can fit everthign at once then do so.. Depends on what all you decide to do. Once you have a plan or a target of how you want the car to respond it may be easier to advise. But things like strut braces are fairly straight forward. Don't really do much on standard set-up but if other upgrades are done and stiffen everythign teh brace has more effect than just for show, keeps the chassis more rigid with the extra forces involved. If replacign ARB's worth doign drop-links at the same time. if doing a lower brace consider ALK as it's in the same area. Note ALK will move toe angle slightly so worth checking alignment if done) 4. Are Whiteline the best? - As above. It's what most peopel go for. But there are alternatives. I have some perrin parts fitted on mine, there' also a couple other manufacturer. But if you shop aroudn Whiteline parts can be found at competitive prices. Also if buying a few expensive parts at once, worth asking for discount 5. Is it worth putting it into a performance shop to get it all done? If you not comfortable doung the installations yourself then yes. Strut braces are fairly straight forward. ARB's stuff more so. ALK bit of a sod without getting right underneith the car. But if your looking to replace springs yourself then I'd imagine everythign except maybe ALK is within reach of yoru abilities 6. What's the difference between going for coilovers or upgraded dampeners and springs? Usually more adjustment with coilovers Coilovers are generally a package designed to work better, more robust too. Also if just upgrading the springs on standard dampers the dampers will wear out quicker. I wen't down that route and started pricing up a decent set of dampers (Bilstein's at the time) and with the cost of those comapred to BC coilovers and they adjustability it was a no-brainer for me. No more faffing aroudn with spring tensioners everytimg a damper was stuffed! 7. If I put it out to get work done, anyone in Aberdeen area recommended? As the man above said. Clark Motorsport, there's also BHP Developments and Wallace Performance.. Although Wallace seem to be more Evo stuff, but they know scoobs too. 8. Are the Litchfield upgrades listed a good order to do things? Depends what you want from the car There's not really one thing or another that does everythign it's about a whole package of thigns coming together and working. But worth noting that springs/coilovers are probably the first major component. After that look at stiffening other parts with braces. If your not happy with teh understeer look at upgrading the rear ARB and upgrade F&R drop links while your at it. Not sure about the hatch but if they still have plastic rear drop links worth looking to replace those with metal or alloy ones. If want the car to have an improoved 'locked in' feeling roudn corners Anti-Lift Kit is your friend Note: Adding strut braces, ARB's drop links should NOT require alignment set-up. Doing springs/coilovers might if your not paticular about gettign everythign back into the same place as it was. (Mostly camber affected here) Worth gettign a check if you've got to this step. Since all the parts were freed off for install making any required adjustment should be a doddle. Just remember when fitting braces and stuff to NOT let the car move when thigns are slacked off, and the supension will move aroudn and much up geometry. Also worth noting the first pothole you hit the geo will be knocked out anyway ever so slightly.

The A947 is a nice road but I will admit there is WAY more accidents on that road then there should be.. Not surprised it's a prime target for cameras. Yep, that's my 'road safety' cap on again

oh F**K! Mine still has the odd battle scar from last time.. Hopefully you can get it somewhat roadworthy without too much hassle/expense.. Bloody things! You'd think thei'd hear a scooby coming and keep outta the damn way!

I had them mounted slightly differently before and hand to adjust the bracket on the center mount to push the pipe slightly back but not an issue.. Where they are mounted there, the adjustment wouldn't be required.. if in doubt just padd out the rear of the horns with tape or resitent foam or something.. And yep they are Hella Supertones.. Although thinking of adding a set of proper airhorns too Possibly 'Stebel Nautilus' The wiring is traight forward. Just use the existing wiring from the OEM horns, they alrady go through a relay and is more than sufficuent for these horns if you are replacing. As for the supension tweaks.. Car doesnt fell all tha differnt than before.. expected it to be quite twitchy and more pointy. Steering is still felling a little lazy (can probably be resolved some steering rack bushes) But had the car out yesterday with the toyo's back on, and coulnd't get it to understeer. Much more neutral than before! There's a corner than I know would have the car runnign wide at xx-mph due to understeer. took the same corner yesterday at what felt like a comfortable speed. But looked at the speedo on teh exit and was doing 20mph higher! and the car felt very stable! Quite scary just how quick it goes round bends these days.. Feels much quicker than should be physically possible!

WooT! car back in one piece! Well drivable at least.. rear ARB hasn't ripped itself from it's mountings after a short test drive so that's a good thing.. Only a short lap around the house/countryside but definately seems to be a lack of understeer... Although can't really tell much since it still has it's squishy winter tyres on and they were feeling a little soft when stabbing at them..

Cheers min Should be getting her put back together (more or less) this afternoon with a bit of luck, new lower frame welded in place and painted Just put it back together with a good coat of wax to keep her good.. Not entirely convinced about running standard rear ARB brackets with 22mm ARB see how long that lasts. Belts in the post and looks like a quick job. Appears as though the belt was set far too tight.. They were last changed 5 years ago, (35k miles) just before I bought the car. After that, start getting it cleaned up and couple minor changes to styling Oh and try get used to the new handling characteristics

Crap! Don't remind me... Current state: And just noticed last night the alternator/power steering belt has split

Try giving Alastair at Trackhound Tuning a shout. He's based around Edinburgh so no to far away! Quite a few members on here have had their cars remapped by him with great results!! http://trackhound.co.uk/

Anyone know anything about a new knockhill track layout opening today? Is it a new/modified layout or just a reverse run?

That would be about the ball park I'd expect anywhere between £50 and £100 Still waiting to get access to the lift so I get the bits fitted.. Bloody Rover Cariolet sitting on it at the moment P.s. You wasted your money! SIDC Members get discount there too thanks to ScoobyDoom