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I too have noticed this and it has been like it for over a year. It used to be that the general dicussion thread would have a full page of new posts a day and these days I check everyday and often see no new threads. I also see that there is a lack of replies to requests for info/help which is a shame. Has site traffic dropped too? It does make me really sad to see a decline as this forum is easily the most friendly and sensible going. I think it may also have something to do with the fact Subaru are out of the WRC, the new Impreza's have failed and fallen out of popular culture and the old ones are starting to either become used by scum and ragged to death or decent rare examples with lots of cars being broken up for parts. So less sensible new owners or people researching getting a scooby. I won't be going anywhere and will do everything I can to keep my classic going and in good nick for years to come (Until the EU bans old cars). For example I just spent £1080 ordering a full set of top mounts, suspension bolts and spring seats from Subaru....almost felt my chest tighten when they told me the price and I'm a healthy 26 year old lol.

Surely it just uses the OE style gasket? I have a full Afeterburner system and all the gastkets are the same as the OE stuff. If so give your local Subaru dealer a visit or ring and get them to get you one. They are quite dear at £10-£20 depending on which one. I wouldn't use just sealent as it a bit messy and not as good. Pluss you have to pull it all off next time.

I wondered about this but my UK classic has a bloody heavy steel bonnet which really does weigh a lot! So in that case I am fairly sure the carbon would be lighter. As for looking "boy racer" I think they do to the uneducated. But real boy racer is a black painted OE bonnet lol. They cant afford real carbon.

I have been thinking about getting a carbon STI 6 style spoiler for my classic... The main reason is that the GRP one I have has (after a couple of years) flexed causing lots of cracks in the paint work and with horrible brown stains coming through. I was thinking of getting a carbon bonnet, boot and spoiler eventually and then getting them colour coded (I know, I know). But it would be a weight saving and I am not sure I like the mismatched look.

Cool, thanks guys. I might have to swap mine for a set. Where did you get the electric boost gauge as most seem to be mechanical?

Hi guys and girls, what experiences have people had with Prosport Gauges? I cant really justify Defi's and wondered how well these gauges perform? They are about £70 each on Scooby World but a set of three can be had on ebay for £100! I currently have Autogauge/meter gauges which to be honest have been a mixed bag. I brought Oil Temp (Electric), Oil Pressure (Electric) and Boost (Mechanical) about three and a half years ago. After less then 6 months the boost gauge needle started to wobble around wildy not giving a stable reading. I sent it back and ended up waiting for months for a replacement (Avoid Apex Performance at all costs!) During which time i brought another from ebay to complete my set again. This one is still in the car but now reads -2psi even when dissconected so all readings are 2psi low... The replacement I was eventually sent only goes up to about 8psi and then wont go any higher.... The two electrical gauges are fine. So in short how do the Prosport gauges fare? I will probably try to get an electric boost one as well so they all do the opening sweep.

I have tested a road angel against a speed gun. It didnt pick it up. Don't rely on any detector to tell you about mobile vans or guns as they only tell you when it's too late. Just keep your eyes open and drive sensibly and you won't get caught!

Rear diff too? That will be needed. Brakes and suspension? Mounts? All sensors and plugs? Air box and pipe work? Im not sure about the fuel pump but would have thought it would be different. Once you have done that you need to update your log book via DVLA with the new engine number and the insurance company will probably want a professional engineers report about how it has been changed. Good luck with insurance. Most companies work on a % increase with regards to BHP. Try telling them 200% and see how that effects things... You will pay at least twice the insurance you would for a original turbo and the car will never resell. It really is not worth it. Save up and buy a turbo model. Please don't comtemplate not telling anyone you have changed things. It only takes one accident and if somebody gets hurt you are in a world of hurt as you wont be covered at all.

My performance mods are as follows: MY00 UK turbo, full decat, green cotton filter, walbro fuel pump, sard FPR, RCM light wieght pulleys and flywheel, ECU remap. That got me my 271bhp 283ftlb. I would recomend a decent pump to add to your setup. I got the FPR because the OE one isnt great and I didnt want to risk it. You will get close to 280bhp with what you have post remap. A TD05 will see you into the 300's if fitted with 550cc injectors or larger. After that you will want to upgrade your clutch. Things start getting more expensive then as you will start to compromise the reliability of the UK spec engine and gearbox as you climb through the higher 300's.

Screaching on start up can be just a tight or loose alternator belt which isnt too much of a problem. The knocking could be serious but you need someone who knows what they are doing to look over it. I would look for a Scooby specialist near to you.

What model year and which spoiler? My classics mid level spoiler was just four bolts and a plug. Some aftermarket ones may have been bonded on but it depends what you have.

Agreed, your wallet is your limit as you can go on tuning forever if you can afford it. You can get more out of the car without an engine build but there are obviously limits with regards to reliability.

Was a new sensor fitted? There are two, one is the crank shaft sensor and the other is camshaft. Was the right one changed? Either would stop the car from starting. Try an ECU reset too.

It is something that has been asked many time before and the answer is always the same. There are a few who have done it and it is possible however the cost and effort are imense! You would need the turbo, gearbox, rear diff, clutch, wiring loom various sensors and wiring parts, intercooler, full exhuast system and so many other bits that you would never think of until you started trying to do it incuding all the gaskets and bolts that cost a small fortune when you add them up. a. It would cost more then a turbo model to buy all the parts. b. The insurance would cost more then a turbo model for the rest of the cars life (and dont thinka bout not telling them or you are screwed if you hurt somebody in an accident. c. The car would be worth less then it was originally worth as a sport. d. You would need all the other bits to get the most out of it ie suspension, brakes etc. It really is not at all sensible in anyway but I can see why somebody would rather mod their car then get rid for another.

Lol agreed.

Lol if thats the only thing that you found unrealistic then you must have missed almost every other scene in the films. Unrealistic crashes where the cars are still drivable, stupidly high jumps, far too many gearchanges, silly warp speed with NOS, fictional EMP style harpoons, reverse gear allowing highway speeds etc etc.... I love these films for escapism and am in love with the GTR 34 in the second film. Realistic they are not, but they are great fun to watch. Is it just me or do there seem to be a hell of a lot of yank cars in the new one? I wish they had kept to the Jap tuned car scene.

Surely oil can be too thin or too thick. 10w40 may give better protection at start up when 5w40 may be too thin for the cold engine. Then again 10w40 could be too thick in very cold weather to pump around as easily as the 5w40 making the 5w40 better... Both are within the manufacturers guidelines so its personal choice. Maybe most use 10w40 as it's more generally available, also it says so its fine in the book so why not? I really cant afford to buy expensive oil every six months and have been using castrol magnatec since I brought my scooby five years ago with no problems even after remapping and tuning. Some people get very elitist and anal about things like oil... but if you can afford it why not, I guess I would too. I do for example use V power exclusively but then my car has been remaped for it so it makes it worth it.

I had someone go around the wrong side of a roundabout to race me once.... f*kwhits. To be honest in 5 years of ownership not many try it on. The main culprits have been civic type r drivers. Never had a problem with crappy boy racer cars who dont seem to bother. Some Audi's and BMW's give it a go. The only real challenges usually come from motor bikes.

Scroll down this page: http://www.scoobyparts.com/acatalog/Miscellaneous.html Is that what you are after?

Welcome! Like you I grew up watching the WRC (on tv rather then the real thing other then Rally GB 2008 which I went to) and fell in love with the Impreza. I decided then I would own one and at 21 I got my classic and still have it today. If you have requested Subaru tell you about the model and its specs then you can post the vin/chassis code here and somebody will easily identify it for you from the codes. I hope it serves you well! Enjoy

Must be driving style as I have 4's on my classic and they have done over 21'000 miles and still have loads of tread left. If they are down to the cords thats a sign you should be checking more often as you are close to a potentially fatal blowout and six points on your license if you are caught.

Kevlar dump valve??? Kevlar is a fabric/fibre not sure which part of a DV would be made of kevlar.

Silicone is ok but if you want a real good tight seal that wont break down use tiger seal or sikoflex (I think thats the name). Body shops use it to bond body kits on and its very strong. The only issue is if you ever want to get them back off...

Well the actual job is easy but it depends how well the old ones are bonded in. Mine were stuck in place with black rubbery gunk which meant i had to lever them out in the end....

I have posted these before but they do look good