fmj

Its not too bad. Just leave loads of time to do it. The actual fitting is ok but I found the constant adjustments to the various stops to get the window to line up right the hardest part. The threaded parts are not very strong so don't over tighten them and use thread lock when finished. It can't remeber well enough to describe it properly but I remember I struggled the first time I did it to fit a roller into a railed part and eventually realised there was a small stop on the rail that had to be removed to allow it to drop into the track much easier.... Hopefully that will make sense when you lock at it. Be sure to clean the little felt guides as they get full of dirt and grit.

The steam could just be moisture from the cold weather as sometimes my engine steams with no leaks... If your engine is the same layout as mine (MY00) there is a small bore metal cross over pipe that is very close to the oil filter. It carries coolant to the oil cooler if I remember correctly. These rust badly and it may be yours is leaking.... give it a check as its a cheap fix and is something you can do yourself if you have skiny hands. Could also be a small leak from the water pump, thermo housing or bottom hose. Or it could be none of those.

I have had a HKS SSQV on my classic for approx 50'000miles now and it's caused no problems at all. It does make the odd pop and bang (which I have loads of since my decat and remap anyway) but this is just a small amount of overfueling. This overfueling won't do any harm and you will not notice it economy wise. If you want to do it then do it, you will enjoy the noise But make sure you get a good quality one that won't leak as that will harm your performance. Its a thumbs up from me

I will take some pics next time I have it off.

I think its worth keeping. Any scrapes will be plastic rather then catching any wires, hoses, the sump etc... Also keeps muck and salt out from the road surface. Mine actually came off at about 80mph and got ran over. I recovered it, reenforced the broken bits with thin ali sheet and made a new way of attaching it with four stainless m8 bolts rather then the gash standard fittings. Works great now and far more sturdy.

I had a look through the project thread above and it's very impressive! However the arms used were whiteline ones. Does anybody have experience powder coating the OE suspension arms?

Thanks guys will look at the thread later as the misses is making me go shopping now I have the whiteline droplinks and thought they would keep a good finish as they are anodized. But I also have some Roger Clark ali engine pulleys that have started to corrode after two years. Its a never ending battle to keep the car looking good but hopefully powder coating will be the answer! Yes FMJ as in full metal jacket. The thin copper sleeve around a lead bullet. Not the film by the same name. As a teenager the first internet forum I joined was an Airsoft Skirmish Forum (it's like paintball). I used the name FMJ for that and have just used it for everything since.

Guys could anybody with powder coating experience give me some advice please. I am soon planning on a complete suspension overhall. I have purchased spare front wishbones, rear trailing arms, rear lateral link arms and a full set of poly bushes. I have sourced the suspension components from japan so they have no rust on them like most UK cars do. What I want to do it to keep my car tip top for as many years as possible so I thought I would get the components powder coaed before fitting them. How suitable is powder coating for this type of application? Will it cause problems in the bushing holes where it will make them a tighter fit due to the extra thickness of the powder coat? Will it last? Lastly does anybody know if the whiteline ARB's are powder coated or are they painted? I am fitting a couple or ARB's and would like their finish to last too.

I would guess that yours is different to mine then. I know the earlier ones tend to be more dear.

Do mean oil flush as in a product that "cleans" the engine? If so I have heard that they can actually cause massive problems. That is just from things I have read on the web so may be bollox. My car is on 106000miles and is fine with no flushing ever carried out. I personally dont like the idea and just service properly and fingers crossed it's all good so far even after 30,000miles of a remapped ECU.

Three options: 1. Subaru dealer. About £90 if its the same as the 99-00 version. 2. Second hand from ebay, breakers, forums or scrapy. I personally wouldnt be happy with a used one as they have a limited lifespan and are easily damaged. 3. Aftermarket retailers. However they all sell the original Subaru OE item and are usually the same or more expensive then the dealer.

I have just seen the HKS one in JP Magazine but they are about £20. Not too bad but prehaps a little pricey for a 6 months dissposable item. The old type OE filter was great, always good quality, properly sealed and boxed from new. It also used to cost less then £6! The new one looks so tacky compared to it and yet costs over £10! I am sure it will do the same job but I have to admit one of the main reasons I love scooby ownership is that the parts are made in Japan and they tend to have a lot of pride in what they do, it is always reflected by the quality of the products.

So I rang the dealer today and when I told him about the problem (very politely) he reacted as if I had shat in his breakfast. He has grudgingly agreed to "look at it" and see what they can do. I was expecting a "OH OK, SORRY ABOUT THAT I WILL GET ANOTEHR ONE OUT TO YOU". After four years of sourcing parts from this dealer costing £1000's I will be switching to somewhere else once I get a new filter out of them.

Cheers, Now I don't feel so bad for complaining!

Ok so six months is up again and as normal I place a mail order from the nearest Subaru dealer for an oil filter and sump plug washer. Great service as it arives promptly the next day. However I open the package to find that the usual black made in japan item I have always used has been replaced by an unboxed blue filter which is made for Subaru USA in Canada.... It looks different inside then the old one, feels lighter and has rust inside on the contact face! Not to mention it costs twice as much as the last time I brought one. On checking the invoice it does state that this version has replaced the old one. I certainly wont be fitting a rusty filter to my car so its going straight back and hopefully I can source a proper Jap one. The thing is its not even packaged other then the clear film its wrapped in so surely they would have seen the rust and just sent it anyway. Am I wrong to be so annoyed? I know its only a little thing but now it means posting it back again...

Used camskill a few times and they are very fast and always seem to have things in stock ready to go. Best and cheapest for almost everything! There are so many retailers out there that dont have half the stuff they advertise in stock and then keep you waiting... Back to camskill I have had TR1's and Proxies 4's and both have been great in wet and dry. Never used F1's but Toyos will do you proud.

The people I am talking about are the people who approach me and to ask about my car or friends and family who I tell I have an Impreza and when they see it then always mention they don't like the new ones. Its only my opinion and what I have personally experienced and I know some love the hatch and will rightly defend it. I just think it was too removed from the original concept and should have been renamed. I do also agree the classics are dated and are slowly being chaved to death.

A mint 22B would be top of my list. Failing that a Hawkeye STI with a rally look kit in WR blue. Third choice an RB320. Strange it seems it's all classis, hawkeyes and maybe a blob but no bugs or hatches....

I just hope they drop the Impreza name. The Impreza died with the last of the Hawkeye and since has been diluted more and more, now it is just a name used to sell average cars. I know some love the hatch but it was never a big hit and once again in my opinion Subaru got it wrong. Even to this day when people talk about my classic they ALL say the same thing "I don't really like the newer ones". What with diesel imprezas, hybrids for the yanks, rubbish generic styling.... Its just not what we all loved about the old Imprezas. Just let the Impreza name RIP and be remembered as an old classic. The things that made it great just dont fit in this health and safety, eco friendly, low risk taking world anymore.

I'm not sure, I was under the impression the standard shocks were oil filled but I may be wrong. It is usually stated that KYB make the OE items but not that the gas versions ARE the OE items... So i'm unsure really but either way my standard shocks are ten years old and going strong so if they are KYB then they have done me proud.

Agreed admitidely mine is a classic but 4 new KYB gas shocks cost me £230 plus £10 p&p last week from camskill . Hope they last ten years or more like the OE items!

Thats one hell of an aux belt! Almost as winding as the cam belt.

Perfectly normal figures mate .

People ask this quite a bit which is a good sign. My first clutch lasted over 70'000miles before I changed it and it was still fine just to give you some indication. My classic has always had a high bite point and usually judders a bit, just one of the cars traits.

Somebody asked a similar question about 2dr Impreza's recently. They are just the same as other AWD Imprezas with regards to winter weather. Its the tyres that are the most important. AWD does help in snow especially getting started moving and hill climbing. It also means the car is a bit more balanced as you drive on it. In the heavy snow earlier this year I was driving to work and when most people were staying at home. There were many occasions where I would pass white van man and the average fwd car stuck at the bottom of snowny hills. I still had to trundle along at 20-30mph tho. Don't be under the illusion you can drive fast or even at normal speeds on the snow with AWD as you really can't and will come unstuck. I would say AWD is a lot better then RWD in the snow and a fair bit better then FWD but dont confuse it with a rally car fitted with spiked tyres or a proper 4x4.