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fmj last won the day on August 30 2020

fmj had the most liked content!


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About fmj

  1. Cheers guys, will probably be over scoobynet or something when I get around to redoing my build thread. Of the seven years here I have been a paying member for two of them. I know it's not much money and to be honest I was going to renew anyway sometime (maybe in time for next years show season) but this has just f****d me off a little. Maybe I will calm down and come back in the future when I miss it too much, it's a nice forum to be part of. It just seems owning a scooby is expensive enough without paying to read and write about them too.
  2. Hi guys, well as this is now the only place I can post I don't have much choice but to post here. So let me get this straight I have to have a membership to browse or post? I have been around since 2006 and contributed several how to's and guides one of which went scoobypedia and several people have thanked me for my help. I was a user who actually contributed but now find myself locked out. I know it's all for the greater good etc etc but I feel a bit crapped on here (well a lot actually). I am not a paying member and will not be doing so. The forums are far quieter then they used to be probably due to the dying of the popularity of the Impreza. I am not going to pay to be able to see something that used to be free. I will now migrate to another forum and leave you guys to it. It's been a great seven years and I hope the club continues long into the future. I am not sure that the forums will benefit from the loss of contribution by those who don't want to pay but oh well. And I was just about to update my build thread too... grrr. All the best.
  3. Just gutted a 1998 UK sport and there wasn't one. So probably they probably arn't fitted to classics...
  4. Glad to hear it is of use! I did however notice that in the original post I put to jack the engine up 20cm... I of course meant 20mm. 20cm is a tad extreme and all the wires and pipes would break lol.
  5. Heres the thread One error I have noticed is that I wrote to jack the engine 20cm.... I meant 20mm. Lol.
  6. Sorry I can't help with an answer. But have you ever removed a sump from an Impreza? Not sure what you facilities are but I did it on ramps and it was a bitch! The rear four bolts are complete inaccessible as they are blocked by the subframe. The only way I got to them was with a 1/4 knuckle and extension bars. Then getting the bolts started to get them back in is near impossible. I jacked the engine up in the end to give more room and it was still a nightmare. Just a warning. Also the dip stick tube was completely welded into it with rust and then hard to get back in and stopping old oil dripping down into your new sealant before replacing the sump is difficult as no matter how long you wait oil still seeps down the inside of the block. All in all I hated that job with a passion! Very easy on a block out of the car but in the car it was hell.
  7. Don't forget to try to avoid airlocks. Make sure to use deionised water mixed with the coolant and not just tap water. I always use this guide I copied and pasted ages ago from here. "Disconnect top hose (rad end) and slowly fill engine through top port until full. Reconnect top rad hose. Disconect the small hose that goes from the H/T to the rad (highest point of rad) at the rad end. Fill Via H/T whilst keeping finger over the hose, when coolant comes out the rad pop the hose back on. Continue to fill via the header tank untill a couple of cm from the top. Fill expansion tank. Massage top and bottom hoses to get air bubble out. With rad cap left of, set the heater and fan controlls to medium and start car. Allow the car a few mins for hot air to start to come through the fans, keep checking for this as you keep an eye on the level in the header tank and top up a little when required. Massage top and bottom hoses to get air bubble out. As the hot air is now coming through the fans, and the level in the H/T is stable with no air bubles be expelled, its safe to put the rad cap on. Job Done." Usually does me well.
  8. So another two days off and despite it being overcast it stayed dry so I got on with some more bits. First removing the tacky tar stuff that the sound deadening leaves behind. My method of removal: Brake cleaner also works buts it's an expensive way of doing it as you would use loads. Probably also die from the fumes! The tar. So you heat the tar and wipe it with a cloth and off it comes. Thicker bits needed a scrape with the chisel. A few cloths and small burns to my finger later and we have the results: Not bad but then again there is still this... as well as some in the boot! A quick hoover around makes it look a bit less daunting as some of it was loose. After many hours. Also removed the last few bits from the chassis. Brake servo/master cylinder, brake lines and fuel lines. Door seals, central locking motors, more brake lines various clips redundant fittings, some trim and the brake bias valve and bits. Completely empty engine bay. The project so far Next job: Once that is done I literally have a bare shell. The only bits left on the car are bits inside the doors. I would like to swap the electric windows for manual ones but cant find them anywhere! Locks and handles etc will remain but I have removed the central locking motors as it wont be needed and is just extra weight. I have sourced a drivers door and boot so they will go on soon (mainly because they are taking up room in the house/loft). Then I will be on the hunt for a facelift bonnet and will be striping the old underseal from the chassis. Doing a spot of welding and POR-15 aplenty.
  9. Sounds logical! Shame everything else I want to do is better suited to the summer! If I had though about it I would have done it when it was still cold.
  10. Cheers, it's so light now you can pretty much lift it off the stands by hand! As for the sound deadening yeah it's a nightmare. But I have found that getting rid of the sticky residue left behind is far worse then chipping off the deadening itself. Brake cleaner works but a heat gun and a rag works better... luckily there is nothing left to set alight!
  11. So here's the next round of pics: The front end: Drive Shaft and Wishbone off as well as the hub. Leaving the steering rack and front subframe. A mornings work and getting the ball joints out of the hubs was a bitch! Front subframe. Now you see it. Now you don't. Not too badly rusted up front either. More bits and bobs from the front. Gearbox mount. Followed by. Getting the gearbox out safely on your own is really not an easy task without a hoist or lift! Gearbox gone. The shell so far.
  12. Here is the best thread I have found about doing it properly. http://www.rs25.com/forums/f138/t171256-my-rear-quarter-rust-repair.html
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