fmj

A decat, decent panel filter and remap should see you close to that and fairly safely if you dont abuse it. An uprated fuel pump would be a good idea too.

Depends what you want mate, the more power the more money. Things like bigger injectors, upgraded fuel pump, uprated clutch are all needed as you go up in power. The sky is limit but will cost you an arm and a leg. Give us a figure of what sort of BHP you want and I am sure somebody here will know what you need to get there.

Search for nengun when I brought my ssqv v2 for my MY00 everywhere wanted about £250 but nengun ended up costing about £120. I did have to wait about 3 weeks as they export from Japan but it was worth it! Of course the £ is not worth very much at the mo so may not be such a good deal. Nengun is brilliant, all genuine stuff, great selection, very cheap and reliable.

You could always jack the car up at the rear so both rear wheels are off the ground. Try turning the wheels by hand with the hand brake on and off. Then you will see if it is binding. They wills till be stiff to turn but you should be able to turn them with some resistance. Or park on the tinyiest slope you can find. If the car doesnt roll the brake may be binding if it rolls freely then its not. As the drum and disc are one piece of metal then the disc will always heat the drum.

I always wondered what sort of euro safety rating a classic would have but it seems that the Japanese are not into that sort of thing. Having seem the mess some cars end up in so many times at work it does make you think... especially when you can be the best driver in the world and it only takes ones idiot coming the other way....

Never really seen any scooby drivers bahaving that badly but there are some very chavy examples especially classics as they are so cheap now (No idea how they afford the insurance!). Thats speaking as a classic driver too... The really a***s seem to be driving vans, civics, astras, corsa and "fast fords".

These scams are all over the net, they are so easy to set up! In the UK Money Gram transfers are often requested as they are virtually untracable. Everyone should use common sense with these things but people do fall for it all the time!

Good plan, go for a decat, panel filter, fuel pump and remap and you will get some great gains as a first set of mods.

Hi mate, the jap engines are no more reliable then the UK ones. In fact as the UK models are mapped for UK fuel I would say the UK versions may be more reliable in some cases. The Jap models however do give you more bang for your buck with the downside of the history sometimes being a little more difficult to follow. If you are looking at an early STI over a standard UK turbo of the same age then yes the STI has the strong engine to cope with the higher power output but that is not to say it is more reliable. In general all scoobs are reliable as long as they are well looked after. Aluminium panels are usually only the bonnet which was present on some jap models liek the RA. There were also other weight savings like no fogs, less sound proofing etc... This is all godo for performance but dont let an aluminium bonnet sway you as its not going to make a huge difference. Insurance sounds high for you situation. Try confused.com as my last premium was about £900 and im 25. A uk model will always by cheaper to insure. As for classic or bug... I preffer the looks of the classic and I think most people agree but the bug is a more modern car with a slightly nicer interior and the chassis is stiffer. Its a personal preference really. With the bug it gives you the option of having an STI that is still a UK car but with the classic all STI's are jap imports.

Still ok for V Power in Salisbury . Keep your hands off tho its all mine!!!!!!!!

Because it will keep the eco nuts happy and will benfit Mrs Miggins who drives 5 miles a week. The rest of the country who drive more then that will be worse off and the government will make more money. Thats why... Its an insane idea but if it makes money for them in the long run they will do it. I say use some of the money to improve and expand ANPR systems so that we can get all the uninsured ****ers with no MOT, Tax or licenses off the road and scrap their cars. This would in turn reduce crime and insurance costs.

I am affraid we are all stuffed. The government and councils are all using the green arguement to their own ends. They are putting up prices of fuel, road tax, and car parking for two reasons. To make money and to get those who cant pay out of their cars. Its the same with anything, if you dont want people to do something anymore price them out of it... Then only the rich and powerfull can do it. Eco cars are ****e, where does the electricity come from? how would we ever produce enough? how will we all afford brand new cars? some people rely on £200 bangers to get around, how will they afford £10,000+ for a new car? I know its only a matter of time before cars over a certain amount of years old are banned. Pay per mile will be another con. Before long you will only be able to make essential journies and going for a drive for fun or recreation will be out of the window. Its sad but I think the best we can do is try to ignore it an enjoy while it lasts. No matter what you protest it wont change and no matter who you vote for the main parties all want to shaft you. The green arguement is a perfect platform that loads of gulable people follow and support.

If its the same one fitted to the 99-00 UK imprezas then a new one from Subaru is about £250!!!!!

It's not illegal as long as you update the dvla with the new numbers, capacity etc... But you would also have to tell your insurance company and as has been said above, your premiums will be far higher then an orginal STI and for this reason nobody will ever buy it from you later. I know NA classics have been converted before but its a lot of work and the far easier and cheaper option all around is to buy the car you want in the first place. Lots of people ask about doing this but not many follow it through. My plan would be restore the classic. New door cards and nice later model seats can be brought fairly cheap on sites like japperformanceparts.com. Get the dash replaced or flocked.

If you do a search on here under "Which Oil" or "Oil Advice" you will find loads of helpfull info. Try the technical section where this has been asked a fair few times.

Classic 2dr Classic 4dr Hawkeye Blobeye Bugeye Ummmmm....Skyline/GTR 35,34,32,33 Hatch

It will fit but you will need a remap or it will not run right and you will not get the performance. The P1 engine was also built far stronger (STI engine) so was more upto the extra strain. I have my T2000 upto 271bhp and it has been fine for 2 years touch wood so a good standard uk engine should be ok as long as you don't push the boost up too high and look after it well.

I got my scooby at 21 (A uk spec Turbo 2000) and still have it now almost 4 years later. I am so glad I got it! If your cash is very tight and you can only just afford the car then have a good think if you can afford to run it. If your milage is going to be fairly low then you may be ok but if you are putting a fair amount of miles on the clock the fuel bills add up very quickly and tyres (of which you have to choose fairly good quality ones), oil changes, service items etc will come up quickly. The key to these cars being reliable is that they are serviced with the right bits at the right times. If you cut corners you will pay far more in the long run. Be carefull with insurance too. I know it sounds boring but insuring it in your dads name with you as a named driver when its actually you doing all the driving will void your policy if they find out. £2500 could get you a bargin but its also the sort of money that a lot of abused examples are sold for.

I just know how pissed off I would be if I brought a car and the seller forgot to tell me it had been stollen and abused to the point it needed a new engine. If the seller straight out lied about the reason it had a new engine I would be furious. Up to you mate but be mindfull the person buying your car may have saved long and hard for thier new pride and joy and they will be gutted to find out about its history. As the others have said it will show that it has been stollen on a HPI check and any dealings that it has with the police in the future.

I think you will find 99% of discs will go rusty when left wet overnight. They soon clean off by the time you get down the road. If the surface of your discs has rust on that doesn't go away after a short drive then they are shagged and I would replace the discs and pads soonest. I went for OE discs last time as they lasted a long time and are ok for the driving I do. Beware of cheapo brake parts. They look ok but are much good at doing the job and cost more in the long run. If its just the hub part of the disc which has no contact with the pad that is rusty take the wheel off and paint it up with hamerite. As for wheel colour... If you go for a full rally replica then gold all the way. But for a road car I preffer a grey/gun metal colour for a blue car.

If you watch the extra features on FF tokyo drift you will hear the amount of transmissions and parts they broke on the cars doing all that hard driving. They killed the cars a lot...

Forgetting the rest, 20 months for MAKING indecent images of children. Thats a joke, I hope he makes some special friends inside.

Mine does this every now and again. I find just alarming and unarming the alarm sometimes with the hazards on resets it.

I don't really see how letting the car tick over can do any harm. Obviously longer journeys are better then lots of shorter ones due to the stop start stop start and always using the car when its not warmed up. Surely letting the car tick over for 10 minutes before driving can only be good as it means all of the engine parts have warmed and been coated in oil before taking the revs over 1250rpm or so.

My next port of call would be to detango it and get rid of the orange bits. It makes these cars look a lot more modern. Hope you enjoy!