Big 'D'

Just checked the times and as it stands its 6pm to 9pm its a short event but well worth the visit, perhaps we could tie in a pub meet after too Cheers Iain

It would be great to see you mate Cheers Iain

Theres 4 wheels here that I got off Vimmy if you are interested Cheers Iain

Hi all Just in case any of you fancied a change and meeting some members from a different region, here is a link to the next Swindon meet, I sould be there Swindon June Meet Cheers Iain

White wheels Cheers Iain

I think we have got simons car going right now, would you all please cross your fingers its needs all the luck it can get if the last month is anything to go by Cheers Iain

I had them with me at the last meet mate Cheers Iain

No gauges fitted sorry, would you have expected to see any changes? Cheers Iain

I am really glad I took the time out to explain my findings to you guys Cheers Iain

Easiest way would be with a computer with ecu access link or the select monitor (subaru ecu tool), you can do it manualy by reading the voltages off the connectors on the back of the ecu with a volt meter. I can give you plug and pin idents if you want to try that, then you would fit the new TPS loosely and get someone to depress the throttle fully then adjust the TPS until you see 4.3V at the ECU then lock off the TPS adjuster screws and allow the throttle back to idle and check that voltage is 0.5V, function the throttle a few times to ensure the adjustment is correct and to ensure the voltage is linear ie does not jump around. Cheers Iain

The TPS will need to be set up when you fit it to the engine too mate, needs to be 0.5V +- 0.3V when throttle is fully closed and 4.3V +- 0.3V when fully open, it should be set up in the fully open position so you are aiming for the 4.3V +-0.3V. Cheers Iain

If the voltage output on the throttle position sensor is not linear or correct that would cause hesitation/running issues, I would ignore any other sensors until the TPS is sorted mate Cheers Iain

Hi all Our next monthly meet will be on the 5th July 2009, at the Kings Arms (Harvester) at Kidlington. Click here for location map.........Link to map Cheers Iain 1. Big 'D' 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Ok here goes, firstly prolong AFMT is not an oil treatment it is a metal treatment that uses the oil as a carrier to get it round the engine, from all the advert bumf it claims to bond at an ionic level with the metal components within the engine and effectively reduce friction and heat etc, the reason I tried this product was to try and reduce the piston slap I had on my ver 3 sti after its rebuild, I had tried all sorts of oil of various viscosity and ended up using a 5w50 fully synthetic which gave the best results, but the piston slap was still there only not as bad as with a 10w or 15w oil, I then looked into the Prolong AFMT I was at first very sceptical about it but after reading into it they have been around for ages and have loads of good feed back, so I bit the bullet and decided to give it a go, I mixed a batch up with my 5w50 oil at 15% to make the required 4.5 litres to fill the engine after a full oil change, then started the car up and let it warm up, at first there was no real difference and decided to take it for a bit of a run, whilst out on the run the engine responce was smoother and sharper than normal especially the turbo responce (visible on Apexi Avcr) and when I returned from the drive and had a close listen to the engine the overall noise was greatly reduced even on cold start the following day, if I had to put it in % how much of an improvement it had on my piston slap/engine noise over the oil alone it would be atleast 70% better. I can honestly say it is no placebo effect it really does seem to do what they claim it does, I will be trying it in my gearbox/diffs very soon too as it can be added to any oil At the end of the day if it was no good or I saw no improvement I would not have posted up in General how good it was. Hope this helps Cheers Iain

You can try this with the MAF sensor too but it will show the CEL light, again if it runs better your MAF is faulty and if it makes no change your MAF is ok. Cheers Iain

I am currently using Prolong AFMT it is the base product that all the Prolong lubricants are based on, you can add this direct to any oil, engine, gearbox, diff etc it is 100% compatible, this would allow you to source an oil seperate then add the required amount of AFMT to your oil, or you could just buy the ready mixed option from Prolong the choice is yours, all I can say is that the stuff really works Cheers Iain

Incorrect, it actually shows no code try it you will see I try not to give out duff gen, it will run on a base map on the ecu if it runs better it is the o2 sensor if it makes no difference it is someting else, a faulty o2 sensor will rarely show as a fault code either, but if you dont trust me swap it out or get the voltage checked. Cheers Iain

Unplug your o2 sensor go for a drive and see if the symptoms go away if so it is your o2 sensor if not it is something else. Cheers Iain

You can ride shotgun with me if you want, just leave your man flu at home Cheers Iain

I have a 90 deg entry TD05H for sale Cheers Iain

Thanks mate, the thanks I get makes it all the more worth while , I think it took longer to get the damn alarm sorted than it did to swap the engine over lol, that asside we are a big step closer to getting you and your car to one of our meets :madnoel: Lets hope this is the end of your troubles mate Cheers Iain

I have no idea if you use this forum but if you do I would like you to think back to your driving today, overtaking in a 30 zone round road works and overtaking multiple cars approaching a blind summit and busy truck stop, I was behind you in the white Classic Sti, the kind of driving I would expect from a teenager not a grown man and some of the worst I have seen in a while, it is because of people like you that scoob drivers get a bad name, if you want to drive like a moron buy a Nissan Micra. Cheers Iain

Thanks for the reply My classic is well in the 12s with a 12.4 @ 109.8mph, 60ft time was pretty good @ 1.68 sec 1/8th mile was 7.9 sec I was just interested to see if it was capable of any faster times

Can I be cheeky and ask what BHP/Torque the guys getting 12.3s to 12.5s are running? Cheers Iain

If you think the 'flatness' in running is more than just the ECU reset just let us know mate and we will help you out. Cheers Iain