colin_ross

"I hope your not refering that i am a TIT. Because thats fighting talk where i come from angry.gif angry.gif " Well I was but only as a joke (hence the smiley)

Reminds me of total recall. 3 tits in the one picture

Will we see it at Kames Peter?

That one is really down to personal preference. Oil temp is useful if you intend to go on the track or drive the car particularly hard as it will warn if the oil is getting too hot. The pressure gauge is really there to tell you if you're engine is in good health or not. The car already has an oil pressure gauge (the oil light) but by the time it comes on your engine will probably be toast already, a pressure gauge might give you enough warning to prevent damage. I have all three (plus a few more) but have always said I'd like to start removing some of them once I stop changing the spec of the car and know it's running sweet.

The main types are mechanical and electrical (defi etc). Mechanical is the most common and cheapest solution, fitting is pretty easy too. There not all the exact same but here is a guide for the most common type. The back of the gauge will probably have 3 wires. One will be an earth, the second will go to a switched live and the third will go to a dash light. The first two will light the gage up when you start the car, the one that goes to a dash light is optional and if used will dim the gauge light so it's not too bright for night time driving. Thats lighting it taken care of the next bit is to get it reading the correct boost pressure. On the back of the gague will be a nipple that a vacumm hose should go onto. Feed the other end into the engine bay and tee it in with one of the hoses comming off of the inlet manifold. Job done.

Some things will be easier to sell and easier to remove than others. The defi'sand nur spec would be the first on my list. Both are sought after and both are easy to source the replacement parts (I might even have a dash top for you). The gearbox stands out as the biggest financial gain but also the biggest PITA to remove and replace. On the other hand you could just grow a pair and keep it like a real man.

Or like a cheap date. Keep in touch Stephen, I'm sure the tesco garage in Uddingston will miss you.

Charlotte is trying it on. The check engine light is saying the car is not happy with one of the inputs, probably a sensor. Tell EH that driving the car in it's current state could be doing damage (true) and that you'll need a car off of them until it's been solved as you can't use yours. They have no diagnostic basis to say this is not the case. Watch as it's fixed overnight.

Steve - need to come and see you about getting that dump valve fitted. You got any Saturdays or Sunday's free over the next few weeks?

What can I say, I really feel for you mate. First off I'm glad nobody was hurt physically, I know emotionally you must be pretty raw just now. The effort, time and worry in building a car like that means it was more than just a car and those of us who have went down the same road will be feeling your pain. It can and never will be replaced but the JP feature will remind us what a bloody amazing machine it was.

I'd rather skip the queue

I doubt a lardy newage owners would want to be in the same class as a stripped out classic just because they have similar power. Where's the fairness in that? BTW, will we all get to skip the queue to make sure heat soak is not more of a problem for some than others?

Then what? If you challenged me you would have nowt to back it up and neither would I as nobody knows how much power my car makes.

68 cars on the quarter mile list as it stands today. 14 would fall into class one 20 would fall into class two 34 would fall into class three with the slowest car running a 14.67 It looks like class three is top heavy but many of these cars have only done the drag strip once or twice and you’re more likely to see the guys in the top half of the list coming forward and signing up. If you’re worried about big groups vs empty ones power would be a lot worse in my opinion. I would suggest that once you are in your class you stay there. If you got 13.5 the last time you went on the strip and bang out a 11.8 you deserve to win in my book. Of course there are other ways of doing it but this to me is the easiest

All starting to sound very complicated to me. To work the system has to be simple and ideally no more than 3 catagories. The two ways I'd recommend are either.. Road vs track - If your car is driven to the event (and not just the last mile) proving it has tax, mot and insurance it's a road car. Everything else is a track car. Previous performance - Split the cars up based on their previous best quarter mile time. 11 sec and under is Class 1, 12 sec is class 2, 13 and up is class 3. Both of these methods take out the bhp and weight calculations required to see where your car sits.

I don't know how much power my car makes (honestly). Should I just go in the standard section?

Used them for a repair in the 90's - terrible quality of work. Used them for spare parts when I bought the type r - wrong parts EVERY time. Would only use them for oil filters and sump washers now.

The box is at home but can pull off the code when I get home tonight. The 754 is the casing and yes it is stronger than the earlier 752. The box I have also has the version 5 type r gear set in it which has the stronger/shorter gearing but no shorter to what you're already used to. I bought the box for spares but have only robbed diff parts so far so is still complete. I was told it had 50k on it and was running good but would be happy to allow a teardown/inspection before money changed hands. SW is who I was going to suggest also.

^^^ Yup, one of those. Either that or a 6 speed at 5 times the cost. I ran my sti 5 box (exact same) at 412/400 for a couple of season including crail and knockhill and it held together just fine. I've heard that the 754 sti boxes have fewer, but fatter teeth and stand the abuse much better but having never opened it cannot vouch for this. I have one sitting in my garage if you're interested.

Did you go Chris? How were the times?

Right accross the bonnet of her car. Those were the days.

My missus did that once. Really.

First off welcome to the club. Now, the running out of petrol is absolute bs. The check engine lisght means the cu us seeing something it is not happy with. The dealer or a friendly local with a code reader could tell you why. There's quite a few things it could be but do NOT rag the car until it's been looked at. Mist turbo cars make woosh noise but some can be good and some can be bad. Get a ride in someone elses and compare. I take it you got the dealer to note the faults on your receipt so your covered if it comes blows if it's needing money spent on it?

^^^^^^^^ 044 I believe.