drb5

I know goes swimming a bit, so he'd only enjoy it. []

Just gonna send him out for a Micky D's? []

I feel sorry for the guys who he'll be working beside......only joking! [] Awe ra best Fuzz.

Good helpful guys.

Idle control valve controls the idle, so i wouldn't have thought it to be that. I'd suggest having a look at your coil packs. Undone the 12mm bolt and pop one off at a time. Pull back the rubber end and see if you can find any hairline cracks. If there is at least one, that could be your problem, then put a post in wanted section, as they are kind of expensive from Subaru. Failing that, i'd then replace your plugs.

Even a jump start from another car, sometimes cannot start a car. Trust me, been there plenty of times.

But he doesn't need one right now Peter? Defi's are expensive, as they're such good quality Chris and a doddle to fit. Autometer and the likes are a lot more time consuming and don't really have the accuracy and robustness of the Defi's.

Gauges. It's only a watchful thing and shouldn't bugger up your warranty.

"Look!! There's Elvis!"

Different regy number bud, but yer it was defo a 22B. []

Lol, it's not your fault it's making a noise. It's clearly something not in the proper place, so it's my fault entirely.

S*4 WRC on North Street. WIY?

As i let Chris know by text earlier today, i will get the shocker off and give it a proper going over. Obviously something isn't sat correctly and removing the shocker cover last night, didn't do the trick. It's a process of elimination really and after helping fit his new rear spoiler, time was upon me somewhat.

I think Harvey does a lot of last minute jobs, which means he "disappears" for a while at a time. He'll re-appear soon enough and get you sorted out. Don't worry, he ain't ran away with your money. lol []

Tis actually! I thought they were all at least £650 exchange. Apologies Andy.

With Chris wanting it "cheap" i doubt Andy's turbo will be cheaper than a converted TD05 16G. Plenty appear on Ebay...

I would start at a low duty and increase it until you hit your target boost pressure.... Fair enough Alan. Ihave it set this way and although it probably isn't the most efficient, it works well in an easy to explain situation and until Andy gets his paws on it. lol

It's perfectly fine to fit it without a remap. Read the manual, make sure the gears are NOT set to learn gear and turn the duty up to max, with your desired boost level set through the rev range. PM me if you get stuck and i'll try and advise a bit better.

Perfectly fine, Peter.

The PLX is good for the money and very neat. Always on the look-out for a spare wideband myself...

Just bought an Exedy twin plate clutch and flywheel combo and will be getting a remap with me new pistons and turbo fitted. After that i'll be purely enjoying the car. [H]

I'd have thought you'd have the proper Speedline nuts mate, as the holes that the wheel sits over, are actually wider than they need be and thus use a nut with a shoulder on it. Check that first as it's a big job to replace ALL the studs, where as i used just one in each hub for the locking nuts.

You'll need wheel spacers and longer studs for your locking nuts Grant. You may need longer studs for the other wheel nuts too, if you don't have the proper Speedline nuts.

It was very disappointing figures that i got when i know that it drives great on the road.....359/326 is not great for the mods but there is a few issues that need looked at. 1.The a/f was 11.5 @ 4500rmp then rosed to 13 and stayed to the end of rev range......running lean so i've been told and not good for getting power. 2. My car was RR in 3rd gear and didn't reach target boost of 1.7bar so the power was based on 1.2 bar and 1.4bar overboost.Should it been RR in 4th gear Wuz and how much does the effect on the fogures? 3. I think i need a Apexi AVCR now to sort the boost control and getting better performance from my mods. I know that RR figures are not the be all and end all but i would like to see better figures for myself .....better luck next time eh!! 1. Get it remapped, or at least checked out Peter, as 13 is way OTT for a scoob engine. If it was going to 13 on the road, i'd be expecting det. The higher the afr, the better your figures should be, but if your EGT's are also high, then that can lower the figures. It's getting a good balance that's required IYSWIM. 11.5 is bang on target. 2. A run in 4th gear wouldn't really make much difference at all. Maybe only a few hp. 3. AVCR would defo be the way to go, but even then, you still may not hit target boost every time. Unfortunately not evertything is perfect. [] I don't think i've ever been completely happy with a RR day run, apart from the RA, but that was as no-one could give me an idea what i should get, as i'd been playing so much with boost, fuel pressure and fuel additives. Don't look too much into it, but you know there was a problem there, so that could indeed be the cause of it. Get the GEMS out and get a PFC in and see Andy, would be my words of choice. I'm sure it would be a lot simpler for yourself IE: remapping whenever you want etc.

When mapping scoob engines, the target AFR should be 11.5, so you are way over it. You could, if you don't have one fitted, get yourself a fuel pressure regulator and richen the mixture with a higher fuel pressure. I wouldn't go without a remap for long, even when doing this, as i'm only suggesting it as a precaution, till you DO get a remap. The lean AFR could certainly claim your engine, due to detting, which i'd expect to be happening quite a lot. Running lean can also cause high exhaust gas temperatures. Get it remapped asap.