euan_r

Colin, the defi sensors just have econoseal connectors on sensor ends - cheap and easy to make your own, if your keeping eye out for some second hand.

Superpro haven't increased nvh on my car whilst power flex have done in the past. Bush number 7 would be packed out by white line front of rear diff carrier lock kit, essentially poly rings that go above and below that bush to pack it in which would leave original bush, which is another option.

I couldnt do the prep in less than a few days so fail to understand the drive in out situation. If some one wants to enlighten me in how you cam completely clean underside before undersealing i would be much obliged, otherwise entire task is pointless and will do more damage than good.

Enjoy the fish.

ive tried loads of metal polishes. autoglym was reasonable, meguires doesnt shift that much but leaves best shine, raceglace has good cut but can be beaten on shine. I now use the britmax twins. Ones good for cutting through heavy stuff and other is polish/sealant. I wont be changing as sealant does work and it doesnt get so tarnished between polishes. If its heavily tarnished use some 0000 grade wire wool with polish after quick wash.

never had a 6spd but ive always used syntrax/driveline thats recommended. Changed recently to redline shockproof lightweight to see if it improved a slighlty worn synchro, it didnt, but changes feel slicker in other gears and when its cold.

Glad i brought my hat. Not any snow worth mentioning but that which landed ensured the newly graded gravel got wet and tore up. Rear wheel drive nova was quality whilst it lasted. Think it was nearly half the entry list lost to attrition and saw quite a few offs. Thanks to dave again for 0 mile walks into stage. Gas stove in wind is no match for bbq though but meal at night more than made up for it.

Will try and get along depending.

hello alan, no hiding just sadly nothing much taking an interest these days on here. ive mostly been pestering wuz and duncatr whilst rebuilding yet another scoob, wasnt really the intention but hey how hope your health has improved as a result of operations. rich has collected cats and hopefully will result in pass.

hi rich. I have centre and front for classic in the shed. My mot tester said he had to do some secret magic to get my car through last time though. i suffered engine failure a short time later so perhaps there was something ado.

you must have scared most off with your singing last time

i would be thinking of oil and fuel control measures first and foremost.

i will be down for this anyway. i wouldnt bother polishing the car though, as it just got covered in crap where we were put last year.

i thought ops budet was just about right for a standard 2 ltr forged build by time everythings added up, cant believe a big spec engine will come in under that, you must be supplying some parts as well. My basic short motor is not going to be far off that alone and im not going for a big build, just doing it right the first time. Then there is baffled sump (you will need a new one at least), clutch, modine, oil + water pumps, timming kit, the various gaskets including metal head ones, head bolts. There is then heads to get skimmed, decked and shim tolerances checked, if heads are reusable (sadly mine arent). Then there would be labour for removal/fitting unless op is into DIY. It all adds up very quickly. This assumes you will be sticking with orignal cc too as there will be mapping cost in addition otherwise.

I had same issue and it was lambda, sorry to hear its not the case here, presume you reset ecu after sensor changes. If you wanted to clean idle valve its on the throttle body, highest one just above throttle position sensor, sound like its not to bad if it only happens after a while though. I would also have a good look round the small vacum tubing to see if any has perished, also are you running aftermarket dump valve as air leaks would effect idle.

the fuel pump relay is a cylindrical one up behind dash with green connector. on input side, one spade should be hot at all times and the ecu sends 0v to other side when it wants fuel pump on. hope this helps. i ran one of my old uk turbos with direct feed for many years without issue.

Its closed loop so will be your lambda sensor.

Putting it politley its a rubbish idea tbh. Less posts and forum not as usefull as it was. This will mean less users (paid and unpaid) and therefore less revenue. Club needs to get back to what it used to be, which is busy first and foremost. From what i heard offline roberts original idea of restarting seemed a reasonable idea, divide the debt by your 20 quid and its how many upaid members required Shocking to see long term members treated the way the have been in this thread. Remember jc doing a nice bbq at crail for us with proper non-supermarket grub(2006)

Welcome back min. Sounds like good find, pretty rare a unmolested classic.

The chip will pull out and the resistor will be obvious as its not one of those tiny surface mount blighters.

The mines sticker means the ecu has had a chip added in japan and one resistor cut inside to bypass original mapping. Easy to reverse if you wanted too. Have a search on scoobynet, apparently even running 99 ron is not sufficient.

i got the one above window from jap performance parts. plenty of other breakers as well.

very nice dave, monster brake size i fitted my ickle version yesterday. clearence was a bit tight had to remove wheel weights and add hammer on ones, good job local garage were still open. this put me behind schedule when i was wanting away, cant say i followed proper bedding in procedure for new pads mine came with near new ds2500 but i will leave them for track. went against my better judjment and went for ebc bluestuff as they seem to be getting good reviews, was after something more road use friendly. if they turn out to be crap they will be replaced with some 1144.

Ive done the job a few times now. Yes you need to remove headers or just that side of them. as above undoing engine mounts gives the extra room required to remove if heatshields are still inplace but ive never removed pitch stopper as engine only needs up less than a inch. Ive never managed to undo uppipe rear bolts without removing downpipe though, even bought one of those flexi head ratchet spanners but was unsuccesful. How have you guys manged without? Crows foot sockets?

Oh, i think so. Bbq again i think min.