wilky

lol, you couldnt resist it could you? good luck mate

What a great weekend! Im glad you or if you prefer the plural, youz, had such a fantastic time. Cant wait to get my car back! Callum W

If that is the original CRD impreza, I would steer clear of it. They had all sorts of problems with it in 2003/4 when they were running it. The cooler at the back of the manifold was for cooling the fuel if I remember correctly, however if its cooling the oil I would question its positioning. If the back brakes are 4 pots normally found on the front of a classic then chances are its the same car. I remember when George Smith who worked there at the time did that conversion. On a positive note the quality of the work George did on the car was very very good as well, however...........I remember the car being a 4 door STI RA, that at first glance looks like a 2 door. I cannot remember if they re shelled it or had a fire or what happened. Personally I would steer clear of anything related to CRD. Callum W

The car of a madman. I like it.

What boost were you running mate? Callum W

The first stand alone boost control unit I used was a greddy Profec B 2. It came with a solenoid that replaced the standard one, the wiring harness and the controller which had high boost set by you, low boost like wise and other low tech nif naf and trivia I never bothered with. My boost gauge was fairly accurate and whilst mapping on a possum link ecu the boost reflected by the greddy and the gauge were both accurate. It was cheap and cheerful and did exactly what it said on the tin, and could be hid away in a pocket or a glovebox. I think these Greddys are fairly cheap now. It could be turned up or down. Or switched off. Callum W

The staff car was a very quick car and nice preparation for what you have now. Its not until you've driven a car in which high speed is effortless, that you start to appreciate thing a little differently, and how easily you can get yourself into a bit of a mess before you realise it all too late. Its a lovely car gaylord, Enjoy. Callum W

Good luck buddy, Id be interested to hear how your cars running when you get into things, after Uncle Stevens fettling. Callum W

"Torry seems alot quieter these days!" commented uncle charlie.

Chales Bronson, football sock, £20 worth of shrapnel, you know the script.

Sorry thought It was a classic. But still check your boost pipes.

Go away, disconnect you battery, have a cup of tea, touch yourself, beat up a pensioner, whatever, about 2 hours later reconnect your battery and use nothing but V power again, and if it doesnt work ill bet you have over filled your oil because of your long run and you boost pipes are blocked so the actuator isnt doing what its supposed to. Take off the pipes from the actuator to the boost solinoid, spray brake cleaner into the pipes cleaning them out, and the boost solinoid, reconnect and all will be well. Callum W

Your hairs too long............... And your a homosexual so no. ;-)

1 of 3 things will happen 1. Nothing 2. They will lose the helmet or say YOU have contaminated the evidence and its not admisable 3. They will accuse you of something. Ive had enough. Im forming a vigilante group.

My mates garage in Torrie got broken into on Sunday night monday morning and his quad was stolen. The Federation turned up and couldnt have cared less. It makes my blood boil. You get plod on here defending themselves then when it comes to dealing with actual incidents its Laurel and Hardy or Robocop. What qualifies me to say this before these clowns come on and try say how hard their job is? Ill let you all into a secret, I was a Policeman for 4 years before I got a life and did a job where I could make a difference for real. Ive done 13 operational tours of Northern Ireland in one role or another but Ill tell you this, not once did I see a soldier push a bystander to the ground that had nothing to do with a public order situation. Someone wants to get a grip and start re educating, re training and re assessing these muppets before we end up in faceless police state where there is only right and wrong and no compassion, thats if it hasnt happened already. AAAAAAAAAAAND relax...................... Rant over.

As others have said It could be 3 things, all of which I have encountered. a. Brake fluid is gubbed and needs replacing, 5.1 the cheaper it is the quicker it goes "off" The synthetic stuff is great. b. Pads cooked (Redstuff in my humble opinion are not that great) c. Poor quality discs or worn thin discs. All these things have caused early fade on cars Ive run. Change the fluid and try that, If it still happens I would cut my losses and get decent discs and pads for peace of mind. Expensive but worth it. Hopefully its the fluid Ed. Callum

Ill second that if the car is a classic, overtightening them on re installation can cause them to crack, when you put them in just nip them dont crank them on. Callum W

An imported car manufactured before august 96 does not need a catalytic converter. How can you prove when your car was manufactured? look at the manufacturers tab on your seatbelts they are made within a couple of weeks of the car ! This information is readily available through VOSA. (The cat information not the seatbelt stuff) Callum W

Adding methanol will increase the cars ability to run more ignition advance hence more power. The better the octane the more advance can be run.

Oh well, ho ho ho! There you go! He he he!

As you know the colder the air you can induct, the better. If you didnt have cold air coming in from the foglight cover area, up ducting and into the area of the filter then the wee scoop that replaces a bonnet vent above the area of the filter would be the next best thing, however in my humble opinion having the air forced in at the front of the car and up ducting will result in more cold air getting in than the wee scoop can manage. the air passing over the bonnet at speed wont get "scooped" in half as good as air "ramed" from the front. You would also need to deflect the air from the scoop to the area you wanted it. Callum W

A F Noble is the only Subaru garage in Scotland worth dealing with in my opinion. First Class service, great parts department who know what they are talking about, and a superb body shop.

The type of FPR that is ideal for a turbocharged car is one where the fuel pressure will rise as the manifold air pressure increases, this is the type that has a hose running from the FPR to the manifold, or is T pieced into a hose coming from the manifold. If this is the type you have then set it for about 3.2bar static, ie when the car is static and idling. Have the hose disconnected, the car will run rough whilst you do this but its okay until you reconnect it. An uprated fuel pump ie walbro 255 is recommended to keep the fuel pressure constant and not tail off just when you need it. The other type is a 1:1 ratio FPR which is not pressure assisted and has to be set for the max pressure you will require from idle to max rpm and is less suitable for turbo cars BUT does have advantages if you are running a car with antilag and would require constantly high fuel pressure. I has been ages since I meddled with this so if Im wrong im in no doubt that someone will correct me, however no one has replied yet so I thought I would get the ball rolling. Hope this helps. Callum W

Hahahahahahahahahaha! Good call Iguano!

A glass of boiling water and a wine gum.