colin_ross

How are people keeing in touch with Andy just now? I assume he's not on holiday by the various threads on recent remaps. I'd like to take the 4th of August slot if it is still available but my e-mails have went unanswered. If it is I'll need to sort a day off work to make it happen so need a bit of notice.

July 15 Steveo_8 - 10am simtek with anti lag (P1), stuarted- 1pm- Apexi tweek (P1) 16 10am-booked Rheid - 1pm, 07 STi Ecutek remap plus license 17 ciaranrb5 10am RB5 fresh Ecutek map on licenced ECU, LewisScoob - 1pm - EcuTek remap plus License 21 Cullenmin - 1pm - Apexi Tweek 22 sti_steve EcuTek remap plus License 10am. 1pm already booked 28 ton246-10am, fitting of Apexi FC Commander & mapped.(classic 96 Sti import) 29 30 10am WRX Kenny? W88CHY MY02 STi PPP - 1PM -CANCELLED CAR WONT BE READY, W88CHY August 4 Playsatan 6 7 10am WUZ - EcuTeK plus license Evil_Scoobs - 1pm , Remap of Ecutek 18 1pm Fai17 Autronic remap 19 20 21 10 am Cal My93 WRX Apexi Tweak 1pm already booked 24 25 26 HI_JAC - ECU change to simtek 27 28 sake-bito -10AM - Ecutek plus license. 1pm already booked I've e-mailed Andy to see if the 4th is still available.

How is Andy calulating the output from all these clssics. I know the ecutek had a rough acceleration Vs approx weight calculator can he do this on the good ones as well now? What ecu's are these on?

My type r is only an S plate and I'd ant a fair bit more than £10k for it. Modding a car is a sure fire way to loose cash and you never get back what you put in but that car looks to be worth in excess of £10k in parts alone.

What year are we talking about and I'll see what I've got

The extra 0.5 in diameter once squared and multipled by 3.14 actually works out to a reasonable increase in the amount of conductive material the coil pack has to pass the current through. Is there a price difference? If so by the cheap ones unless you're going to be running MEGA boost and need to run a lot of current to stop the spark being blown out.

As mentioned above when you do up the wheel studs it will clamp the wheel onto the bells and will stop any movement. When you are shimming up the calipers make sure you put on a couple of wheel nuts (with washers to protect the bells) to hold the bell in place and then make any changes.

There's more to it than the noise of course, and I'm not talking about how much torque it can handle. I'd recommend you drive one first before you buy. There is more backlash than a standard helical transmission and this can make for jerky progress under the wrong conditions. The ratios are nice though and 80mph at just over 3k rpm helped me do the McRae run all the way down from Glasgow on one tank.

Can't remember for sure but there's a least one breather return, probably two, and the dump valve return also. It's been a while since I had one though so may be wrong.. Here's my current setup

CDB's only mate.

Any stock ones I've came accross have been hard plastic so no issues with them collapsing. They can be restrictive above certain power levels, limit your choice of turbo and in my case just rot away at the rubbers. Samco seem to be just about the best if you want to go aftermarket but I'd be interested to hear why you want to do it.

I wasn't really suggesting you get a bike John. It works for me but not for everyone. I was just trying to illustrate that a £2k runaround doesn't have to be boring. Oh yes, I found this on my travels. http://bbs.22b.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?...c;f=34;t=001706

You can buy that too. So I've heard

Sounds like you have a bit of thinking to do John. What do you want from this or any car? Do you want it to be an everyday machine, a balls out weapon or something in between? If it's an everyday car then I'm afraid you've already went too far. I had a silver uk2000 back in 97. I put a back box on it and that was it. It was an everyday car and even if it was a little thirsty and depreciated heavily it was totally reliable and fun to own and drive. If you want a best of both worlds car then you are going to have to accept compromises in both too. The money you've spent on mods is for your benefit and rarely increases the vaule of the car, and may well make it worth less to some. You'll have lost some reliability and made the car more of a pain for the journey to work etc. However, the car wil be faster and more to your liking. You'll enjoy it more when you're in the mood and it's nice to have one that different to all the rest. The tricky thing with this type of car is the balance between the two and only you know where it is. It's like having one drink too many, more often than not you know the drink you shouldn't have had and once you've taken your car one stage to far you'll know it too. Now a weekend toy is a different thing entirely. Do you want 500hp, no problem. Noisy enough to be heard by the french, why not. Less comforable than a POW camp, bring it on. Spend more time under it than in it, sounds familiar. Basically you can have the car exactly as you want it but there is a few catches.... First - you need an extra £2k or so. Not to spend on the car but for a run around. Keep it simple and cheap. Here's mine Second - You'll never be able to sell it. You've made a car for you not somebody else. If you do find someone to take it of your hands you get back a fifth of what you've spent on it. Third - Greed. Is it ever fast enough? What do you think? That said if it is a toy it will never feel slow or boring when you get in it. So decide what you want and make your move.

Johnny's right. Facelift is ok but pre facelift it just looks stuck on. If the car has a cage then I assume it's a track car? Rip out the stereo and heater controls and mount a sheet of ally or cf with some 60mm holes in it.

They've got to catch you first In my type r I've added harnesses but kept my normal seatbelts too. This means I can use the normal one when popping down to the shops but if I'm on a trackday or a proper run I can use the harnesses. Only thing that makes it different to fitting then to a four door is the sliding front seats. They can foul the eyebolts of you don't get them just right. Trial and effort should see you right though.

As above but think the gap for subarus should be 0.7mm from memory.

More boost will not reduce the lag. What would help is managing the boost better. An electronic boost controller like an apexi avcr can help bring the boost in quicker if thats what you want to achieve.

Wouldn't call myself a tech guy (handsome maybe) but I do have some experience with lightened flywheels and pulleys. Firstly, yes the car can be easier to stall but once you're used to it it's no more difficult to master than a normal one. My last flywheel was an absolute featherweight so it was noticeable if I wanted to do a full bore launch on the strip. Total commitment was required and at least 6k rpm or it would bog down badly. It's worth noting that this mod will NOT give you car more power. The power the engine can create and where it creates it in the rev range will be unchanged. What will change however is how the engine feels. The flywheel, and the pulleys to a lesser extent, store energy from the engine. The heavier the flywheel the more energy. This reverve helps to smooth out power delivery, made the car harder to stall, and for want of a better word softens the responses from the engine. When you fit a lighter one this means that less power is stored and there is more to drive the car. Is it noticeable - yes, I would say so. My car sure revs quicker than others I've been in. Try and find a car of similar spec to yours that has one and blip the throttle. If it sound the same to you thats how it would feel, if you feel it builds and drops the revs quicker there's your answer.

What do you mean it "really works"? More power, less oil use, less deposits, engine still in one piece? By what measure would you say you've seen an improvement?

When the maf semsor goes it can take the lamda sensor with it, thats what happened on my type r anyway. Symptoms were jerky reponses when on part/light throttle. Disconnect the battery overnight, put it back on and see if the check engine light flashes to indicated a problem.

Very impressive Peter, never seen that done before on a road car. You worked out the radiator and intercooler positions yet? Oh yeah, and if you're looking to have the exhaust exit in front of the front wheels I think you may have mot problems. Might be worth looking into.

Hmmm. Big drum is a PITA but that price is hard to ignore. Good shout mate.

He told you then. Could have got 2 in it I'm sure.

I just gave a drum away but would rather have the smaller containers as they're easier to store. I negotiated it down to 75p a litre, but that includes the containers and delivery. Can anyone suggest somewhere better.