colin_ross

Without wanting to state the obvious - what boost is the car mapped to? If it's mapped to 1.2 then the 1.5 bar is the problem not the other way around. If it's overboosting them you have to find out why. If it is mapped to 1.5 then there could be a number of possible causes. A boost leak, wastegate or dump valve could be the problem but it would be unusual for hem to hold up to 1.5 and then quickly reduce the pressure. I'd be more inclined to look at the boost controller or solenoid as it sounds like there is a slow response to the quickly increasing boost pressure when you floor it.

I've been through three or four bosch silver tops. Think it's because the car is off the road for long periods. A trickle charger has solved the issue now.

Thats what my money would be on too. The first cold snap of winter will have halfrauds selling more batteries than the rest of the year put together.

pocket money as in very tight budget especially compared to some others on the scene. Road car as in full interior complete with sound deadening and sound system. Weight saving on the day consisted of taking most of thectools out the boot and kicking my passengers to the kerb for some of the runs.

Lovely looking motor Mike. Hows the bus coming on now your a family man?

Google camskill for the bearing.

Best 60ft was 1.75, all of the tyres were at 30 psi when I left the house. If the launch looked a little soft I'd wager it was quite early in the day. I was struggling to get to grips with the launch control i.e. I didn't know what method worked and what didn't. Most of my earlier runs started with the car bogging down quite badly. One race in particular saw an r35 pull out 5 - 6 car lengths on me before I was out of 2nd, stil beat him though . I didn't feel I was driving particularly well in the morning either. I should have been learning from each run but the first dozen or so were just a blur. Once I'd learned from my many mistakes I was launching much harder, 30ft of wheelspin harder (felt like it anyway). I was just thinking about dropping he pressures when I fubar'd the centre dif. Next time I'll be better prepared, so will the car. In 2010 I'll break into the 10's or I'll break something trying. I know it's just a stupid number but it's also nice to say that a home built, full fat, pocket money road car can do it.

To be fair Andy most people only saw the back of that car

If you feel that way don't fit a twin plate clutch or a straightcut gea***t. DS2500's are pretty quite but they don't half give off a lot of dust, even when just pottering about.

I'm in. Time to get cracking on the to do list. Fix gearbox, join RAC, take no prisoners.

Nice choice Callum. Black is the fastest colour after all. I totally understand the desire to have a quality everyday machine to run around in. As nice as it is to fire up the subaru and scare myself silly it's also nice to have a solid, reliable, safer and comfortable car for the journeys you have to make rather than want to make. I'm looking for an new everyday car myself. I've owned my current steed for nearly 8 years now but as tempting as it is I won't be looking at performance cars to replace it. The whole point of the second car thing is it should be the ying to the others yang and besides nothing is going to feel fast after the type r even though the running costs would suggest otherwise. If the 32 is going to be your only whip then it's a fime choice. If you're thinking about keeping the subaru I'd have bought a gtd. On the other hand if you're loaded just keep both and enjoy.

The apexi has everything you need and comes highly regarded.

Lovely job. Did the same trick with cutting the case too, should have mentioned that.

Thanks Jon. More power is always welcome but I think the biggest gain came from having the right gearing this time. Next time I may have to look to weight loss to get that magical 10. Either that or actually learn how to drive it.

Yes

It is a clever piece of kit and is certainly a higher quality product IMHO but I don't have a use for the additional features like datalogging. Cheap and cheerful is the order of the day on my car

For an import used to higher octane fuel or a modified car I'd consider it essential. It was my first mod before I put in a panel filet and decat. Standard ecu's can retard the ignition if they detect knock but only by so much. Many aftermarket ecu's do not do this but can flash the cel instead but this is either on or off. I prefer the knocklink for it's adjustability.

Constand red would demand attention but unusal activity would get me to back off a little until I was happy I knew what the issue was. There are alternatives but knockink is the cheapest. http://www.phormula.co.uk/KnockMonitor-KS-4.aspx http://www.kotec.info/dk1s_en.html

The more det the more lights come on. The first green is always on but quite dim, this just indicates it has power. It will light fully, followed by the second green, 2 oranges and then the big red. Normal driving I get just the power indicator, on full boost I can get a green, sometimes 2 but no more. I fluffed a shift on the strip on sunday and got a snick going into third. The knocklink felt that and threw up an orange. I knew what it was so kept my foot in. When my maf failed (when I still had one) boost threw up a red. My car is pretty loud so I had no chance of hearing it detting. If I'd have stayed on boost my engine would surely have been toast. They are adjustable btw as not all emgines have thr same amount of background noise. Mine is set to maximum.

Yes, it detects detonation. Things it will warn you of - maf issues, map issues, fuel quality issues, fpr issues, fuel supply issues, over boost issues etc etc. Mine has saved my engine at least 3 times.

Thanks Craig. Sorry I never got the chance to give you that pax ride, I ws going out and asked where you were and then noticed you were on the strip yourseblf. Next time maybe.

Going back to the idle question - it will be the cold start function that has raised the revs not the decat, although you may hear it more. The cars run a maf as standard so even if the car is now breathing more freely it will make sure the desired airflow is maintained by adjusting the idle control valve. Once up to temp it will back it off as normal.

No wiring other than the two power wires and the sensor. All of the led's are still connected to the circuit board with no alterations.

print screen button

Thanks for the intro Winky. I'm a bit cack handed with the old soldering iron and I also wanted it right in my line of sight. So I ended up with this, Took about half an hour all in. Just removed the case, used the holes in it for a template and drilled through the clock surround. Don't even have to take my eyes off the road as if it triggers any lights you can see them easily. The whole thing is up there. Just ran the wires up behind the dash and over the top of the clocks. You don't even have to take the clocks out. Theres only two screws holding the clocks surround on, just remove it and tape the knocklink box to the top and test fit it before you start drilling as our dashes might not be the same if they're different years. There should be loads of space even though it looks tight. Did consider drilling through the top of the dash and having the led's sticking through the top but my bus sized steering wheel blocked the view. Shame as the led's would have reflected in the screen giving me a heads up display at night. How cool would that have been???