colin_ross

BTW, motor is looking great John. Not sure about the red turbo but everything else is spot on.

Same place as me....................

You nicked my idea!!!

Defo 17's and defo 225's but not sure if 8.5. Think they may be 7.5 but as they're rays there will be a sticker to check. I'll get back to you.

Thats exactly what I did with mine (running 225's)

There is only one thing wrong with that car.................I don't own it. If you ever fancy a swap for a fast car you let me know

Amsterdam or Thailand?

I've heard of people getting a running in or "guesstimap" before but I never bothered. I only changed a few things between stages so didn't see the point.....bigger engine,bigger turbo,new fuel system etc Have you got an afr or knocklink? If so watch what they're tellign you. As long as the fuelling is ok and there's no det you should be fine but an e-mail to your mapper should confirm this.

Ok I should have read that first and not just copied/paste it. I followed the routine but changed the miles 300 before the first change another 300 before the second last one at 1000. Buy a magnetic sump plug as well if you don't have one. I can post up pics to show you what mine pulled out of a fresh engine.

This is the ffedback I got from my engine builder when I asked the same question > Here is what I suggest for breakin, but of course always follow what >your tuner says to do. THis is just what works best for me. > > First 300 miles, no boost no more than 4500rpms. Use non-synthetic oils >of 10-30 weight. I use the cheapest oil I can find for the first round. > Granny drive the car, and don't get on the highway and go for 300miles. >That is not the right way to do it. The fueling needs to be pretty spot on, >if not a little lean for this otherwise the rings will take forever to >seat. > AFter 300 miles, change oil/filter and put in non-synthetic again but >use a decent brand. Now you don't want to run any more than 12-13psi boost >and set your limiter to 6000rpms. Drive like this for 1200-1500miles. >This is also where you will be working on your part throttle fueling. You >should be able to get it dialed in within this mileage timeframe. > If all is well after 1500 miles, change oil/filter again. Still no >synthetics. Have the car dyno tuned and then immeadiately after, change >the oil to full synthetic. Now your done. Every 5000 miles or so I usually >do 3rd gear pulls from 1500rpms to redline and then leave it in gear and >let the engine do the braking. I do this about 10-15 times. This just >helps keep the rings fully seated and usually will also help keep the >cylinders fairly clean of any buildup you might encounter

Quite simple. He doesn't give a fu ck.

I've used mine as a dust collector and money shreader to good effect.

If x mean 0 then probably yes. Didn't you run your last one in on the trailer John?

Nice looking car but ffs cut that front plate down, it's blanking off a hugh chunk of your rad.

You'll be able to tell if it's gear oil from the smell, if it is then that would be the only possible explanation I could think of.

New batteries in your hearing aid?

Oil shouldn't enter the cabin unless you have a mechanical oil pressure gauge. Could it be grease off of the pedals or steering columm or any chnace the oil came from before you got in the car?

You use the brakes???????

To be fair I have heard of these thing and the high power figures now make a lot more sense. You can buy them online but they aren't model specific an have to be adapted to fit your particular make of car. Due to the significant rise in power I'd only recommed one of these if you have a forged engine or a deathwish. I looked into one myself but I reckoned the ppg wouldn't take the abuse so didn't bother in the end. If anyone has bigger balls than me and is interested I've attached the schematic

Don't waste you time with those sort of questions. Ask what the fukc he is on and does he realise how big a tw@t he is?

"ELECTRIC SUPERCHARGER £280." WTF???

I'll use that same right foot to kick your ar$e Cal, mini blades down there on mine not the standard size.

Socket only becomes live at ignition stage 2 so if you don't have that on that could explain it. Also check the fuse box down at your right knee.

The oe plug will no doubt still be there as Grant says. I've got a spare oe socket if you want it mate.

I wish someone would cover me in skanks.