colin_ross

There is a thread about these things on scoobynet. Nobody actually knows anyone who's been caught by them, some think they're just there to scare you into slowing down.

1. How do i remove the front indicators in the bumper? - 1 phillips screw in each one - easy. 2. The side repeaters in the front wings? More fiddly. Look at you new ones and you'll see the clips that hold them. 3. The sidelights that you would think was indicators? Another single philleps screw that locates on the top of the headlight. They can take a bit of effort to work them out of their position but there is nothing else holding them in HTH

Any work done to it recently?

Frightened to click.

The car it would be replacing would be a focus Davie. I've had it 8 years and only had one problem that was my fault. It's going to be a hard one to top.

Really like those S3's. Just can't justify the price for the amount of miles I do.

Welcome to the site. Could you be more specific regarding what you would like to know? When you say you're not splitting the block do you mean splitting the block in half or simply taking the heads off? The timing belt is straight forward enough in the car and if you have it on the bench even easier. Use quality parts, most people change the tensioner and idlers at the same time as they have been known to fail. They are pricy though but cheaper than a new motor. There are timing marks on all the pulleys, line them up and pull the pin on the tensioner and tighten the idler down. I'd recommend hand cranking the motor until the marks come back into line to make sure all is well. I can give you a diagram with the marks if that helps. The torque settings for the bolts can be found online but the one to watch out for is the one on the crank pulley. Jam the flywheel with a bar and get that bolt to 95 ft/lbs. They have been know to slacken after a belt change so double check it and after the engine has ran go back and check it again. What else are you planning on doing?

Of course when you factor in the fact the the classics are normally doing double the speed of the newages that statistic make much more sense. That said if I was going to have a crash I wouldn't want to do it in a classic. Far better to ruin a newage.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Hotdog. We have a weiner.

Get your facts right grandad - classic ones normally used to tow broken newages a few miles away from crail in my experience. Also no covers on the classics, they have 2 under the car so you can pick the best side to tow from.

I had a series 2 and it was the worst car I ever owned, by miles. The best depends on many things Fun = 106 gti Best memories = first car, a 1.3 1980 escort Best for pulling girls - Astra GTE. It was 1990 and I was 18. May as well have been a veryon next to everything else at strathy Best overal = Focus. I've had it for 8 years and it's been perfect. So good in fact that I'm really struggling to decide what to replace it with.

Think yourself lucky. Girl in my work left a load on her convertible for the last two weeks. Took it all off yesterday and the hood is a saggy as a wet wooly cardigan. Nice.

Hard to sum up how those pics make me feel Noel, it's hard to believe someone can get their jollies doing that. Try not to let them get to you and take measure against a repeat attack (god forbid) cctv etc.

Is this a repost?

And you want my straight cut?

Thinking about it. I've got the parts to fix the 5 speed so I'll get it sorted and run it for a while, probably on the strip again too. If it holds together it stays, if it give me more problems I'll fix it and flog it to someone with less than 500 hp.

Working gearbox Have a few other ideas bubbling away but funds are at an all time low. Plus may have to devote a lot of the garage time to JohnnyR6's car this year. I believe he's almost ready to start tuning it.

Women (driver) wrapping a present at the traffic lights for me.

If it broke the water pump or skipped any teeth it will have done it on start up not 5 mins later. You need to let it thaw whatever you do but if you can be bother you could take the timing covers off and see if everything still lines up. Taking the filler cap off with the engine running should show if the pump is still working, after it's thawed of course. For what it's worth you should have antifreeze in the car even in the summer as it stops the water corroding the elloy block and heads.

Andy - does this mean your ar$edyno may be in need of recalibration? I've heard Wilky has looked at a few in his time so may be able to help you out.

Ouch, how's the mitsi? Guess they're good for something after all.

There's a couple of other ways to tell also. Run the hose from the top of your expansion bottle up to the bottom of your windscreen, if you pressurise the water jacket the water will spray up and alert you. Second is plumes of white smoke out of the exhaust. This is of course assuming you have a replacement water hose to replace the burst one. I posted on your for sale thread Callum. If it's going I'd say fix and flog rather than break but it's up to you. Personally I'd hold onto it and enjoy it doing what you bought it for. Get it all sorted for the spring and then get your sorry ass along to some meets and you'll soon know if it's staying or going.

Reminds me a little of this thread http://forums.sidc.co.uk/index.php?showtop...1&hl=school Pay attention to post 16.

Well it should say "trap set" but other than that I think you know where this one is going. Let the banter begin.

Trap ste, bait laid.......................