lewisscoob

I take it that's a bit too long to wait?

Sorry, also should have said I'm not back home til 12th August

If that one falls through, I also have a fcuked downpipe with a perfectly good flange on it. Bit of a hike for you though.

Very nice, another nur spec I see From Aberdeen?

I was and always have been told that insurers only pay out "market value". However, when I wrote off my first RA, I argued my case like you need to and found 3 examples of other cars for sale in the UK. I used Pistonheads and Autotrader. I got back exactly what I paid for the car. This was with Elephant and they were absolutley great with it.

Stagecoach nae pass your house?

The cut is pretty tidy actually and my IC was a nice fit to it, it's the bumper bar that's rough as ****

Very nice Ciaran, good choice. Is the front bumper uncut? Fancy a swap for a pre cut one?

Is your second biggest secret out yet Dave? The one we were discussing at knockers?

So its not actually whole then?

In the best colour too!

Ah, the one at Brian Downie's maybe?

JDM blob at hurst cars? Looks nice.

Better to be best of a fleet of 4 (off the top of my head) than 2...

Congrats on your purchase min, will be a real weapon! One thing though, everyone knows sonic blue is the bestest best colour!

The vid on the BBc link above from marky.t.s, have a look out for the seagull that must shite its entire insides out as it flies by...

Nice car, always wanted a white type r!

Oh, well you never mentioned code 23 before Make sure you also check the wiring and terminals for the MAF. Code 23 is for MAF and it's circuitry.

The first thing I would be doing is looking for a boost leak and cleaning out the boost solenoid. Check all the little vac hoses running between the boost solenoid, inlet manifold and turbo. Look for degradation and cracking. Then give the boost solenoid a good cleanout with brake/clutch cleaner. I'd be doing this first as its cheaper than instantly replacing a MAF that may or may not solve the problem. Are there any other reasons to the above that you think that it may be MAF related? As far as i'm aware, a fuel pump change doesnt require a map tweak as its generally only changed to ensure a reliable fuel source in case remapping for other mods. Its more of an insurance/reliability issue really as flow is controlled by injector size and fuel pressure regulator. All my thinking - i'm no expert.

The hawk and BRZ in those pics are howling. Though a change of wheels on the BRZ would make all the difference - to me. Also, have the mirrors on the BRZ always been the size of a beer fridge?!

Good god, please don't do palm trees like we discussed at KH!

No, there's a whole 'community' of people that like Pumas...

I agree with FAI17. Quoting 347 on std heads was misleading after playsatan was offering figure estimates for a VF28 on std heads. To the OP, my RA engine which came from a P1 running a VF28, std 440 injectors and sti 6 TMIC and exhaust was running 312hp. As playsatan was eluding to, the non-sti heads could be the limiting factor on achieving more than 320ish on your setup. Is there a specific reason you are going FMIC? If I were you, I would be looking for a more efficient TMIC than the std one. The STI 6 or later will not hinder your figures running a VF28 but will give much better turbo response. I ran a FMIC and 18G for a while and found the lag too much, to the point where I ditched both infavour of a VF35 and STI 8 TMIC, its like night and day. Just sharing my findings and opinions.

Looking good min, how do you get your go pro footage from camera to youtube? I have some footage I want to put up but the files are ENORMOUS! Just trying to find a way to edit them and reduce the size enough for them to be manageable. I used windows moviemaker but it was sloooooow.

^^^