Somethings Wrong..

[Smiler AS]

Hi All,

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Another Update

Running sweet now

Culprit and pics on latest post

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Update, shes decided (next day) to start but still dying after 20 sec,

details on posts below.

? Fuel pump, relay??

? Spark plugs starting to dry out after 24hrs...???

? No CEL light though.

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Somin's up with my car.

Was driving it (2006 2.5 WRX, remapped with VF34, 38k miles) yesterday, all warmed up prior to setting off and 3mile away from the house while in fourth it cut out on me and hasnt restarted since. Although wasnt foot to the floor I was at 3000rpm - near enough full boost when I got the fuel cut / stutter feeling, it hung at around 2500rpm for a couple of seconds then died, instead of cutting then coming back. Towed it home with my trusted wee rav.

Thought the engine may have flooded with me trying to restart it but this morning still nothing.

Can hear fuel pump with acc on, then starter motor, car feels like it wants to get going but nothing, no coughing or spluttering, just wont bite for that start.

No engine check / CEL light on.

Half tank of Optimax.

Started fine earlier on in the day, no smoke or stuttering.

Felt fine and smooth for the few miles I got and was out in it the night before too.

Anyone any thoughts where to start looking first?

Dont suppose anyone has got a fault code reader in Moray area?

Edited February 27, 2010 by Smiler AS

[terzo neil]

is the engine light on ?

i have a code reader but on far side of glasgow airport

[tommo9375]

Have you tried cleaning the MAF ?

[Smiler AS]

is the engine light on ?

i have a code reader but on far side of glasgow airport

Nope no engine light on, which im hoping is a good sign and its something simple.

If it was a fuel cut on full boost, does anything need to be reset after?

[Smiler AS]

Yep, clean the MAF near enough 6 month to keep it "tip top"!

[trackhound]

Yep, clean the MAF near enough 6 month to keep it "tip top"!

It is quite unusal to have a condition like this without a throwing a CEL. Fuel cut is usually triggered by overboost (depending on how it has been mapped) and at worst should result in your ECU switching to limp home made (which is normallly accompanied by a CEL) but should not result in your car becoming incapacitated.

The only time I experienced something like this was when I had a faulty crank sensor, which for some reason, did not trigger a CEL but was dysfunctional. It is quite frustrating when this happens as there are no diagnostic codes to guide you.

If you do not want to take the car to a dealer I'd suggest:

Seeing if a code reader is reporting anything, which it may not if there is not a CEL.

Then I'd suggest checking the real basics:

1. is fuel getting to the fuel rail.

2. are you getting a spark

If both of the above are positive I'd be inclined to try and rule out if a key sensor is faulty by either swapping them in a sequence with ones from another car (if one is available via a friend) or checking resistances with a mult-meter agsinst the OEM criteria in the workshop manual (i.e. cam, crank, O2, maf) but the latter is a real hassle.

Hope this helps.

Alistair

[euan_r]

gie alan a phone hes nae that far away and hes fiddled with his own ecu.

if it was classic i would be thinking cam or crank sensors but these usually give bother starting, dont know if they would make it cut out whilst running.

[cullenmin]

Hope you get it fixed min.

Good tips above that you could try.

I managed to flood my engine after fitting the bigger injectors so I had to remove/replace the plugs and it fired up 1st time after that. Was easy enough on my classic as all I had to remove was an intercooler pipe/water bottle and air filter. ABS makes it a lot harder to reach the plugs on drivers side but mine doesnt have ABS, yours will, PITA job. I don't think yours is flooded though, this is for info more than anything.

Rich

[sinny]

Sorry to hear m8, fingers crossed its a simple fix and you are back on the road

[Smiler AS]

Ok, the latest is...

Took off fuel hose, turned key to ACC, heard fuel pump and pumped fuel ok into jar. So fuel supply is ok.

Took off intercooler, checked hoses, all tight, all clean, etc. all fine, quick peek in the turbo and all clean, no oil or anything like that.

So put everything back on (a JDM STI i?C is a b**ch" to take on and off), thought I would give it another shot.

She started... but......

she will start, take and hold idle herself (with engine sounding fine) but after 20sec or so she starts to cough and splutter then die.

When she does idle for that short time engine sounds perectly fine (ie no "out of timing" noises or rattling), and can even rev her a bit too.

But no matter what - she starts to cough then die.

At least I know timing / timing belt is okay then.

My uncle is a mechanic but no expert on Subarus, likes his Audis though.

Suggested possible cam / crank sensor, some cars have 1 or 2.

Anyone have any details on these sensors, if the Impreza has them.

I did think the CEL would come on if this was the case, but im wondering when I had the decat put on the CEL light was put off by Andy F.

Would this mean that the CEl wont come on with any problem or was it just switched off with regards to lambda sensors/decat etc.?

Another option, could it be spark plugs at 38k miles?

What is in mind is that I had spark plugs done with my first TD04 remap and decat and AWD Perth were surprised to see that the 2.5WRX required different plugs than the 2.0ltr. We are talking about 2 year ago now when the 2.5 were quite new. So, AWD didnt have any uprated plugs available for 2.5 at that point and just nipped round to Subaru John Weir Perth and put in std. plugs. Is it possible that these would be failing? Would failing plugs put up a CEL?

I can get the coil packs off ok, but what size of socket do you need to remove 2.5's plugs?

Ive got a few spark plug sockets from doing missuses focus and rav4 but none of them seem to fit and grab the plugs.

Do you need a "special" thin socket?

Sorry to yak on a bit but I though I should best it as best as I can.

Option 1 - Sensors (but no CEL, bit strange).

Option 2 - Failing Plugs

Engine stuttered and died at about 3.5K revs on a "good bit" of boost!

As always, thoughts and opinions definitely and much appreciated.

Edited February 14, 2010 by Smiler AS

[bobbyc]

I ain't no expert but I had intermittant starting problems with the RA, replaced the crank & knock sensors fitted new plugs & it's never coughed,

If you have an induction kit fitted I would also check the MAF as they can get gunged up.

[Smiler AS]

I ain't no expert but I had intermittant starting problems with the RA, replaced the crank & knock sensors fitted new plugs & it's never coughed,

If you have an induction kit fitted I would also check the MAF as they can get gunged up.

Na, stay well clear from induction kits.

Im starting to think sensors too. Do any of these sensors come in after the car has started them unable to keep the car running?

Im hoping Al is going to be on later and says he has a code reader, would be handy.

No where near a dealer.

Prob wouldnt do any harm to try some plugs, just cant seem to get the buggers out.

[Smiler AS]

I would think the plug socket will be the same as 2.0 and thats 16mm and remove the rubber insert or you will get the plug socket stuck

Ive got 2 16mm spark plug sockets and neither of them grabbed the plugs??

[bobbyc]

Don't know what plugs you have at present but I fitted NGK ILFR7H Spark Plugs when the Mod's were carried out

[Smiler AS]

Don't know what plugs you have at present but I fitted NGK ILFR7H Spark Plugs when the Mod's were carried out

Its std. subarus own plugs that are in, AWD perth didnt have uprated plugs at the time I was down for service / remap.

Can spark plugs fail when in demand, ie. engine running on boost?

[Big 'D']

If it is starting/running ok then coughing and spluttering to a stop it may still be a fuel/immob' issue ie the pump is only running for a short time then cutting out again if you see what I mean. As the car is starting and running ok with no CEL that would suggest that it may not be a sensory issue.

Good luck with it mate.

Cheers Iain

[terzo neil]

mind as well put a blindfold on doing the plugs is the best way to describe doing them

[Smiler AS]

Think i need to buy some extensions then and maybe a slim 16mm plug socket (if you get such a thing).

The two I have just dont seem to be reaching in, without hitting the engine hole.

Im now wondering if by having the coil packs disconnected for a few hours allowed the plugs to dry out a bit, hence why it decided to start, but maybe not dry enough to hold the engine on.

Dont think its immobiliser, ive had that before and lucky if i got 2 to 3 seconds of engine running before it cut in, im getting a good 20 secs now before cutting out.

Could be my imagination, but the car seems to be running a bit longer (only a few seconds longer each time) each time I start it.

Havent given up for tonight, knackered.

Il get plugs ordered new plug socket and keep pursuing for somebody with diagnostic to try and rule out sensors (still no CEL light, which is good - I think?)

Plus battery is needing time to recover after all the cranking today, its back on charge.

[dipsy]

Think i need to buy some extensions then and maybe a slim 16mm plug socket (if you get such a thing).

The two I have just dont seem to be reaching in, without hitting the engine hole.The socket set i used was from b/q with 1/4 and 3/8 drive and the length of socket and extension is 115mm long

Im now wondering if by having the coil packs disconnected for a few hours allowed the plugs to dry out a bit, hence why it decided to start, but maybe not dry enough to hold the engine on.

Dont think its immobiliser, ive had that before and lucky if i got 2 to 3 seconds of engine running before it cut in, im getting a good 20 secs now before cutting out.

Could be my imagination, but the car seems to be running a bit longer (only a few seconds longer each time) each time I start it.

Havent given up for tonight, knackered.

Il get plugs ordered new plug socket and keep pursuing for somebody with diagnostic to try and rule out sensors (still no CEL light, which is good - I think?)

Plus battery is needing time to recover after all the cranking today, its back on charge.

[Big 'D']

There is no reason why it could not still be the immob or the fuel pump, the symptoms you are describing defo sound like the fuel is being cut, have you had your ear next to the pump whilst it is running? Does the pump stop before the engine?

Cheers Iain

[J.C.]

Dodgy fuel pump would be my guess too.

[Smiler AS]

Have still got the original pump, only done about 15k, will give it a go, easy to do on the wagon, or should I be looking at fuses, it defo works at startup. Is there anything to check that connects the immobilized to the pump?

Edited February 14, 2010 by Smiler AS

[Big 'D']

Have still got the original pump, only done about 15k, will give it a go, easy to do on the wagon, or should I be looking at fuses, it defo works at startup. Is there anything to check that connects the immobilized to the pump?

From what you have told us mate it sounds like the pump itself is working (obviously as the car starts) that goes for all your sensors etc hence no CEL, then after 20 secs or so your car sputters to a halt. What I am suggesting is that there may be another part of your immob which needs a signal after starting the engine within the 20 sec window, obviously if it does not get the signal it shuts down the pump, (I have spoken to sigma sam on your behalf, just waiting on a reply).

In the mean time try starting the car with your ear next to the pump (use a friend/partner to start the car) and see if the pump stops before the engine.

Cheers Iain

[Forza_G]

replace fule filter ?

[Big 'D']

It could be a filter issue, I also wonder if the bag has fallen of the pump in the tank? That could be worth a shout too.

I had a reply from Sigma Sam, there is no connection to your fault with the immob, so that is that ruled out.

I would suggest checking everything from the pump to the relay (wires/connectors etc). Defo try and listen for the pump stopping prior to the engine as this will give better indication to if it is the pump or not.

Cheers Iain