P1_Paul

If it's a blob-eye JDM then it's a VF37. I would have thought the run should have been done in 4th as well.

The target is just under 19psi, so that's about right, is it a decat you've fitted?

I've never played with a VF37 so can't say for sure, but I can make that at just under 3K in 5/6th gear on my Octane Booster map. It might just be the difference between the 37 and 36. Running leaner is obviously better for fuel economy, so you're ok. There's nothing wrong with your AFR graph, it's just the JDM's are usually a lot richer out of the box. Mine is 10.5-10.8 on the V-Power map and 11.0 on the OB map. The VF36/7 have a natural drop off point for boost after 6Krpm, there isn't a whole lot you can do about it. You can fit a stronger actuator but I think your levels are about right, they're higher than mine at the moment, but I'd guess my car is running more aggressive timing than yours. You're definitely 30+ lb/ft away from where you should be, especially on the V-Power map.

I'd start by ditching the CAI and getting a on road map tweak from Andy, I'd be looking for boost to come in much sooner, it does on my VF36. Did PowerStation map this car, it runs lean for a JDM.

Hard to say, do you have boost/AFR graphs from the run, also the dyno run print out. Who mapped it?

Yeah, if anything the torque should be equal if not higher than the bhp figure.

Some areas, Fife inluded, have 'opted out' of this Safety Camera Partnership, they probably weren't making enough money.

TBH, I'd be surprised if IAM dropped due to a bad tank of V-Power or T99, it might happen, it's more likely to drop if you change to 95 RON. A bad tank of V-Power will most likely trigger Fine Learning values to appear, shown in the table I posted. It's quite straight forward to raise your IAM all things being as they should(it's quite well documented), the fine learning values can take longer to clear.(especially if you're driving steadily and not reaching the cells with correction) The best thing to do if you think you've had a bad tank, or had to use 95, is to reset the ECU and make a few steady throttle runs into boost. I agree btw, this probably has nothing to do with the OP's problem, probably just him getting used to it, lol.

Aye, sorry, Ignition Advanced Miltiplier.

Here's the learning table for learnt knock, this is how it builds a timing curve depending on fuel quality, conditions etc.

I suppose it does stand true that if your IAM was lower than the highest value and you maybe had some additional learnt knock, then pussy footing it around wouldn't do anything to help raise the IAM back up or remove the learnt knock values. I'm coming at it from the point of view that the IAM is at it's highest value, i.e if it's 16 and you have no learnt knock, driving like a grandad won't reduce the power of the car.

LOL. In a few lines, it goes like this - IAM is a value 0-16 in 16bit ECUs(UK - 01 - 05) and 0-1 on 32bit ECU's(UK - 06+), there are two timing tables, base and advanced(combining both values to get total timing). IAM determines how much timing the ECU uses from the advanced table, e.g. a cell calls for 10 degrees, if your IAM is 16 then you get 10 degrees, if it's 8 then you get 5 and so on....there's a bit more to it than that, but that's the basics. Essentially, you always want your IAM to be either 16 or 1, depending on year.

The fast mode ECU Learning is a method of increasing the IAM value after a ECU reset(or a decreased value due to knock etc). Sometimes th IAM increases quickly, sometimes it doesn't, I've found it depends on the car. The car has been reverse engineered a good number of years ago, fistly by ECUTek, then the OS community.

Nah, the only real learning as such is the timing, it has 3 ways to adjust timing, one immediate and 2 'learnt'. There is no learning at all on the boost side of things. I'd have offered to hook the car up to my laptop if the OP was closer, it would only take 5-10 mins to tell you if it's sick.

Hi guys, just to be clear, the ECU doesn't reduce timing learned or otherwise if you drive your car sedately.

There was supposed to be one in Livvy, but it isn't there, the other one is in Johnstone I think. You'll easily achieve those claims above on our engines with 100% E85, my brothers Spec C makes 5% + bhp/torque extra on only a 20% mix. With it being oxygenated it also helps with spool up. With 100% you'll easily achieve the figures above. I plan to expirement with different mixes in my car, hopefully it wil be more widespread in the future. The only thing is it can be tricky mapping with 100 E85 on the road as you can very easily go well past MBT on this fuel

Forget BP 102, I wish I lived in Dundee, I'd be running 100% E85.

I'm going to go for the BC coilovers, my shocks are shot to s****. The Spec C suspension isn't exactly soft, so hoping there won't be too much of a problem.

Is it bad, I was standing at Duffes when it happened, didn't look too good.

Hi Peter, I'm in the process of modding my dad's WRX MY05 to around 290/300(my target), I've managed to get an STi up pipe(£50), STi intercooler(£150) and hopefully will manage to pick up a Prodrive down-pipe to keep it MOT friendly, along with a Walbro fuel pump it should reach the targets on the tiny TD04. I don't think it'll give anymore on that turbo. I'm using my standard Spec C exhaust from the downpipe back, so can't comment on an exhaust for you. I'm mapping the car myself using OS, so all in it's probably only costing £250-300. Going a stage further, you can pick up a VF34/35 from the STi for about £250(STi IC essential) that will see a nice safe 320/330 with the same(ish) torque, you'll also need 550cc injectors and I'd personally add a 3 Port Boost Solenoid. Not knowing what the standard brakes are capable of I'd probably look to do some sort of upgrade at that power level. Cheers, Paul

I understood what you said, just saying that using a higher octane fuel in the car should have the exact opposite effect. Hence, making no sense to me, simples!

That makes absolutely no sense at all.

The guy that took over from Donald Alari in Buffy's Brae, Dunfermline is supposed to be good, price reflects though.

I have the MegaRom ECUTek dual map on my car, Map 1 - V-Power, Map 2 - V-Power + half a bottle of NF(Nice;))