andrew_forrest

I don't keep them here Frank i'm afraid. Should be around Thurs afternoon if thats any use ? Andy

No need for any gauges unless you particulary want them yourself. I can access all the data I need direct from the ECU during mapping. Your data monitor will be plugged back in after mapping is complete. One thing that may be worth adding, particulary on the 99/00 cars is a knocklink, this will give you early warning of a maf sensor failure which is common on this year of car. Undetected maf failure can lead to severe engine damage. Andy

I would be wary of buying a maf sensor via mail order, they are very very fragile. I have bought new ones from the dealer and even they suffer from approx a 1 in 5 failure rate brand new out the box !! The chances are that any secondhand ones you have had in the glovebox or knocking around in the garage will also be duff. Have you checked its not a boost pipe off/split or the control pipe to the dumpvalve or fuel pressure reg ? This would give a similar effect. Andy

Std TD04, same as UK 2000 / UK WRX cars for the last 10 years as far as I'm aware. Andy

270 Graham On the VF35 I'v seen power levels anything from not quite making 300 to 370 depending on set up and supporting mods. The average is around 335 on an AVCS car. A VF 34 is similar to a TD05-16G and will usually make 10bhp more with the same mods but comes on boost 100-200rpm later due to the larger exhaust housing. Andy

Only some VF35's get boost creep, it can usually be sorted by a bit of careful porting work to the wastegate. Andy

Yes thats ma boy !! I have less time to travel now as its getting even busier locally. I can usually be tempted somewhere sunny and warm though cheers Andy

h to the -1 means divided by, so yes its Ltrs/hr

Interesting, how effective was the tmic cooling fan ? Did it give a good blast of air directly down through the intercooler ?

Does look a bit odd Craig, doesn't your car do around 90mph in 3rd at full rpm ? Peak power at 61mph in 3rd relates to around 4700rpm ? Std cars seem to read close to book figures but modified cars are notoriously difficult to get a reading from on a rolling road (ref my post on Pg 1) Any other graphs available ? Andy

I'm not sure of the dyno power run duration or what the Subaru specific TMIC cooling set up is at Duncans so I would recommend anyone with significant upgrades to run some decent octane booster (such as NF) The reason for this it to retain the ECU safety margin under potentially heavier loading conditions. If the car is not overloaded, then this addition alone will not net you any more BHP but it will minimise the risk of your ECU retarding the timing which may then take some time to recover to normal running on the road. Another thing to bear in mind is that Newage cars and AVCR's have gear recognition control of boost, ie it will target higher wastegate settings in a lower gear to achieve the boost target. The rpm/mph rise rate on the rollers will be different to the rate achieved on the road so some cars may overboost whilst others fail to achieve target boost. This is neither a fault with the car or the rolling road, its just a typical condition. Cars with underbonnet induction kits would be advised to run with the bonnet down, the reason for this is that a direct blast of air from the cooling fan onto the filter can disturb the airflow around the MAF sensor, this can cause the car to over or under fuel. Finally, ensure your transmission is fully warmed up by giving the car a 10 min run on the road shortly before your run is due. I assume Duncan will be checking tyre pressures on the day, I believe these rollers run them at either 44 or 50 psi when in Shootout mode. More general reading here - http://andyforrestperformance.co.uk/26063.html I spoke to Duncan last week and I hope to pop across on Sunday to answer any car specific questions etc but can't be sure if I'll be able to make it just yet. cheers Andy

I got well cuffed by a Civic at Santa Pod last year. In my defence I did break a rear driveshaft on the start line and ran the remaining distance with only FWD It does however prove that a Civic is a better FWD car than a Scoob

It would be interesting to find out what the individual piston-bore clearance was on the original build when its away getting measured. These 2.5's run extremely tight bore clearance and some even in standard tune manage to 'nip-up' and crack a piston ring support land. The pistons also rely on oil cooling of their underside, low oil levels not only risk bearing failure but on track the oil temperature will increase quicker, further reducing the bore clearance. When you done your track days on 95 Unleaded, the ECU would retard the timing causing even more combustion heat build up. The std rods will be fine with up to around 430bhp which is beyond what your gearbox and clutch will cope with, so unless you intend uprating them too then just doing the pistons will be fine. I would however recommend that if you plan frequent track use that you fit a catch tank and an oil cooler. (you listening higgy ) Andy

Sounds like a gasket. Try this test (popular in drag racing set ups!) Remove the pipe that runs from the engine coolant header tank to the overflow tank by the battery. Temporarily run a bit of pipe from the engine header tank, under the bonnet to the front of the windscreen, then take it for a drive. If when you give it boost, the pipe sprays all over the screen, its the gasket.

I remember now, it was when we came back from the mapping that you told us about the puddle that was under the car when we went out. It was the other car that had a leaking radiator that sprayed Andy and me ! Hydraulic lock is where a cylinder partially fills with fuel and then when the engine is cranked over to start it, instead of compressing just air, it trys to compress fuel (which it can't) and this causes a massive pressure spike that can damage a gasket/piston/bearing or even the wall of the block. Andy

Interesting link that Alan, I first read it a few years back but it has been updated considerably since then. The cheap import section makes interesting reading. I prefer tube/fin at the moment but there are new cores of both types coming out all the time. Andy

Hi Chris There were no signs during mapping to suggest the head gasket was on its way out, your year of car does not normally have an issue with the steel shim gaskets (pre 97 cars with fibre gaskets do) I think it was the other car that day that had a coolant puddle under it prior to mapping ? IIRC your car was the one that originally had a faulty fuel injector that was stuck wide open and was flooding the engine, I'm wondering if at any point it may have had a hydraulic lock that has 'bumped' the gasket ? If you had just renewed the coolant before going to the garage for a check then they may not have picked up the fault as they run a hydrocarbon test on the coolant, fresh stuff would appear ok. Andy

I would advise caution to anyone doing a 'before' run, particularly if you have changed parts that justify a remap. Rolling road loadings can be in excess of those experienced on the road and as a result the figures can appear quite impressive but the safety margins may be non existent. For the best 'after' figure then I recommend you get your car tuned on the rollers. I have never targeted peak figures, the widest possible power band under live road driving conditions is my priority. Andy

Sounds like injector seal to me. Remove plugs, disconnect crank sensor and turn over on starter to find which one is passing. If you have ran her dry then obviously you will need to put some fuel in and prime the system for this check to work. If it was an injector then you will also need to change the oil as it will be contaminated as suggested previously. If the cranking check is dry and it idles fine then next most likely is an intercooler hose off somewhere.

1 - AndyF 2 - WUZ 3 - Boyakasha 4 - scoobyiain 5 - Power Junkie Sounds good to me

The std injectors are 500cc on the 2.5 WRX Andy

No probs Russell The 2.0 v 2.5 answer depends upon a lot of variables as Russell has mentioned, generally a 2.0 will make as much power as a 2.5 with the same turbo, its the torque and power delivery that will be improved on the 2.5 Its really a case of matching the turbo to the capacity and your preferred powerband. Andy

Just wondering if you are asking that as a Dastek employee or just for your own info Andy

I have you down for Monday ? I'm mapping in Ireland on Tuesday. I don't only supply Lateral turbos, I have also used/supplied FP Green and many others from the USA and Japan. The Green used to be virtually a TD06-49 which is quite nice on a 2.5 but a bit laggy on a 2.0 Lately they have changed it and there are now 3 versions of it. Nobody seems to know (or want to tell) what it consists of now. There is no problem running any of the Garrett BB turbos with mild anti lag, full anti lag however will quickly kill any of the turbos mentioned. Andy

The way I have set it, the turbo does not get subjected to any extreme heat. It means it doesn't actually eliminate lag as effectively as a full WRC set up but it sounds just as mental and you don't need to replace a £10k turbo every stage ! The launch control was my favourite part, that is 'proper' Managed to fry my clutch when I was doing the initial set up of Peters new ECU in my Spec C a few weeks ago. Looking forward to getting it back to complete the high boost mapping Peter Andy