colin_ross

As above, is there any decentr deals out there? Just off the phone with Jennychem and while their prices have come down it's always worth asking if anyone else has any top tips. Looking for 25ltr drums but about 100 - 200 ltrs if that get the price down.

I always got my ngk's from Alyn at AS performanve. Cheapest I'd found back then.

A quick google shows Custom cages list 2 different product codes for 2 and 4 door.

The only difference is where the b pilar goes which you've already figured out.

Congrats on the good news mate, it's nice work if you can get it. Team Playsatan are well and as troublesome as ever. You pics reminided me of a couple of my own

No problem.

Nice link, saw this one at the same time Look at the size of the turbo to get an idea of what it's gonna do

2.5 is not going to hurt you at your current power levels. IIRC Andy competed in the first TOTB with a 2.5 system. However, as they are the same price I opted for a 3 inch system when I was buying mine. You'll barely notice any differnce in the spoll and will give you more headroom if you want more power later on. Makes it a bit louder too but I don't know if you'd consider that a pro or a con. P.s. how the family Cal, you got the hang of your new life yet?

If the revs rise when the fan kicks on I'd wager it's the aircon and nothing to do with the temp of the car.. Whenever the pump is triggered the ecu will raise the revs and put the fan on to help. It's nothing to worry about as it's meant to do it. Turn the a/c off and see if that cures it.

1. Kinghorn - STI7 - EcuTek Tweek 2. stuarted - P1 - Apexi tweek 3. Rice Rocket - WRX - Tweek 4. sti_steve - 03 STi PPP - Ecutek custom remap including licence 5. Cullenmin - Type R - Apexi tweek 6. ~ ~ Cal ~ ~ - sti'd WRX - Apexi tweek 7. Sake-Bito - 2007 STI - Ecutek custom remap including licence 8. Ciaranrb5 - RB5 - Ecutek tweek 9. Steveo_8 - P1 - Supply, fit and map Simtek(possible anti lag) 10. Dan Terzo - P1 - Ecutek custom remap including licence 11. LewisScoob - 99 UK Turbo - Fitting decat and Nur Spec R, not sure what I need?! 12. Gordyq - Type R - Apexi Tweek 13 Playsatan - simtek tweak 14 15

Save yourself massive heartache, take the motor out. Oh yeah, and if you have arp headstuds then it is totally impossible.

All of the above or a possible airlock. Flush the system and see is that helps.

Bottom end rattles are usually the last thing you hear before a rebuild so listen to it very closely. Other prblems that can lead up to that are, in no particular order a habit of eating mafs oil pump failure det - many potential causes of this one but IMHO it's down to an ecu that was never meant to be run in the UK combined with the degredation of the fuel brockets Retaining nut on 5th gear is prone to working loose on the phase 2 box as well but that's not a P1 only habit, any phase 2 box can suffer it

Loooooads of P1's have had engine rebuilds so ask if it's had one done and if so who did it and to what spec. I think they are great cars but they did have a few faults (like my own) that you have to be aware of. As long as you know how to run one they're great cars.

You know of somewhere that does ally John?

Looks like a fun weekend but I've got to ask.... who's the old guy in Andy's car?

Some can be taken apart for cleaning, adjustment etc - some can't. I'm not familiar with that brand but the guys on the above link should be able to help.

A non dumping dump valve would be my fist guess also. What sort have you got, oe or after market? You can still drive the car fine but I'd keep the boost down till you get it sorted.

Yes I have heard of this before and when tested the battery was fine. It was ther connection to the battery that was at fault. Get a volt meter and check out the battery from the terminals and if thats ok then check it from the leads connected to it.

That was my first thought too. If the battery is just under the level needed to crank it you can get lots of clicks as it tries and retries to turn over. Are the dash light dim or do you have a volt meter you can use the test the battery and charging system? I had a similar problem and the problem was traced back to a bad earth on the starter motor and was fixed with a quick clean of the contacts.

Nice one James. Get a good nights sleep and get the spanners out tomorrow.

I find that works for most things Gordo.

If the knocking sound is coming from under the car then your new exhaust would be the first place to start. Grab a hold of it (when it's cold) and shake that mofo as hard as you can, you'll soon figure out it that's the problem or not. Slipping clutches can come and go depending on how you're driving, how hot it is etc but they never get better over the long term. It'll need changed at some point but you should be able to live with it until you can save up some cash. Don't go thrashing it though as it could either give up all togeher or fubar your flywheel which would mean extra expense.

Too bloody right I have. Last time I mention any ideas around you. My laywer will lbe in touch post haste. P.s. where's the aircon going?