johnnyr6

Good stuff gus, a bit late but my board was fitted by zerosports in japan. The car detted like mad with the chip in on our fuel so i had to remove it. Now running another chip (thought to be scoobyecu but may not be...long story). I now get 1.1 bar in lower gears upping to 1.3 bar in 4th and 5th. Although i may be getting a little boost creep, never goes over 1.3 so i'm happy.

It's better to get an extra chip socket soldered on (i think that's right). This way if you need to or want to you can remove the aftermarket chip and run the oe ecu. I'll try to find pics of my board to show the extra socket and chip.

You can do it, just try to get the car as high as possible. You'll no doubt need an extra pair of hands when your removing and reinstalling the box as it's heavy. Just make sure you line the clutch up correctly.

Who cares what some spotty yoof thinks??? I like my scoob but i also really rate evo's, especially for power 380 brake from an exhaust, filter and remap isn't too shabby in my books. ( ex scooby owners evo6 results by the way). I'd happily give up my scoob for a evo 6.5

A while back there was a test on ind. kits. and the apexi filtered the most crap so it's one of the better kits for cars with maf. Had mine on for over a year now with no probs.

1)big del gsx 1400 2) Squiggle - Raleigh Chopper 3) G.Mac - GPz900r A2 (with a couple of mods...lol) 4) Mako - ZX7-R 5) Gus-ZZR1100 6)G.T. Giant Reign 2 and a Kona Cindercone pedal power ya bassas mon bandito get your list up 7)scooby222- cbr600 fsport, cbr1000rr 8) Markymark - CBR1000rr 9) JohnnyR6 - eh..ZX6R

Understandable, R34 GTR V spec for me too, i like the others but wouldn't buy one.

Take the fuse out and don't crash........ I wouldn't expect it would take long, i'm surprised they didn't say how long it would take.

Colin, godzilla is a R33 GTR from new zealand running 10 sec qtrs although the owner, reese something or other is at the mo, trying to beat the hks gtr record of the fastest gtr in the world, running somewhere around the 7's ( i think, can't remember). On the other hand it could be a big f##k off lizard.

Oi, SATAN...NO!!!!!! Bad Man....

Performance friction discs and pads are highly recommended apparently.

End of april???!!!! You didn't tell me that!! The way we've been going lately (1 day a month, practically) that means we've got 1 day to finish it. Never mind, engine in sunday.....

As playsatan says the belt has marks for all pulleys, the dotted line is for the crank pulley. A little mirror comes in handy for checking the bottom pully marks but not essential. Remove idler G3 (above pick) and fit it last before releasing the tensioner, makes it easier. Oh, removing the rad helps. Apart from that its just the same precautions as any timing belt.

Why? is the handling bad? If it is you may have a prob somewhere as scoobs handle well even in standard trim. If it's just a case of wanting more then there's loads you can do. It all comes down to what you want really, A still comfy car but just a bit tighter feeling or pure track spec with coilovers and polybushes etc. all round. I presume thats a bit far so to start with uprated, lowering springs of good quality will help (eibach etc.) This will still give a fairly comfy ride. Uprated rear droplinks and antiroll bar are also worth doing. Then geometry set up and away you go. Speak to cusko kid on here, top bloke, top whiteline goodies and he can head you in the right direction. Johnny

First of all you need to decide what you want it to be like, track car, driven on the road only really to get to the track or road car with the odd track day. Also what sort of power delivery your after, lazy, torquey drive or revvy peaky power. I know of a couple of early sti's that ran up to 400 on stock internals but iirc they didn't last long. Car wise, if it's just a track toy then, depending on budget, i would go for an sti2 or 3 ra, but for road and track a sti2 or 3 etc. To get 400 reliably i would get the engine rebuilt with forged internals. Personally i'd get a 2ltr cdb with modded 2.5 crank as i like a revvy engine but a 2.5 bottom end is a cheaper option. You'll also need to look at brakes and chassis mods to cope ( which i'm sure you knew). The box would prob need seen to aswell. Obviously there are loads of options open to you these are just a couple. Good luck, it sounds like an interesting project.

Should be, but knowing subaru dealers i'd fone before heading over.

Is it the rear wheel bearing on a classic? I think up to 01 is the same but not too sure. You don't need any specialist tools apart from it being a big bearing so need pressed out and the new one pressed in. I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself unless your pretty competent with spanners. If it all comes out then its an easy job but if the main bolt through the rear hub is seized it can be a pig to remove. I would spary lots of wd40 on it the night before. Camskill do the bearing for about £80.

Yeah m8, Dastek in dalgety bay for you. Come highly recommended. If you can wait there's usually a group day where a lot of us will go up and put their cars on, also saves a few quid. If you see a silver classic STI gives us a wave. Johnny

Why did you change those discs? The other half looked fine....

Gus speak to drb he's looking at one which is a good price, thinks it needs the dash modded though.

gotta agree looks very nice... STI v2 is the best in my books (not that i'm biased or anything)....lol

Now now, that's a bit off eh? I didn't mean what you said was wrong, just giving the advice i'd been given when changing the fluid in my own diff from a few well known tuners. Maybe i should've said millers recommend crx 80/90 bm for lsd's.

iirc.you shouldn'tuse crx 75/90 in the diff, use crx 80/90 bm as it's designed for lsd's. Also autoparts in clarkston stock millers and dastek if any are nearer you.

It can leak from the sump onto the headers or subframe. It can also leak from a few other places onto the headers or exhaust. (not much help i know). The best thing is to do is give it a good clean, get it up on ramps or jacked as high as poss with axle stands and watch for the leak with the engine running. Only do this if your confident and happy to, or better still get it along to someone who can get it up in the air so you can get right under it.

I'm running the gfb underdriven pulleys and they're very good, come with the belts so it's a straightforward change. I would speak to geo, if there's a good price to be had he'll get you it. Johnny.