ccrien

Mine leaked through the 2bolts that hold the bumper on, just under the carpet behind the spare wheel on the back panel, just needed nipping up.

Sent Today, 08:39 PM. Hope this makes sense. If not let me know and I can send photo tomoro No problem, there's a second dipstick, (first one being the engine oil dipstick on the rhs) this is the gearbox oil dipstick on the left side between the block and the bulkhead, sort of above where the catalyst ( is down below). The dipstick tube acts as the filler hole as well. From memory it takes about 3.5 litres from empty. I use a 500 ml gearbox oil bottle with the long flexi tube in the cap, and refill this a few times, and just reach down into the filler hole from above, or you can use a long necked funnel, got one at the local market for about a pound for next time.

Happy Christmes and All the best for 2014, Hope you all get some good burbling drives out, whatever style your thing is, in your subaru

Good to hear, stay clear of trucks! Just the other evening some prat came tearing up the A 1 and overtook then cut in front of us and a car in front over the hashed area at the last minute leading up a slip road - Stones and grit everywhere thrown up from the dead area that folks don't drive over. expected to see chips all over the car and screen but luckily not this time.

Welcome along, loads of folks on here can give advice as you need it.

Is this a fully heated screen Mark, like a ford? Or a thin element or two at the base like in the forester? It's good to heat around the parked wipers and heats up quickly but only a small area but doesn't exactly clear the whole screen.

When I got the forester screen replaced. The new soft rubber trim that goes around the screen, just to cover the sealer and small gap that's left, had a crease from being folded in a little bag ( since manufactured). The guy offered to come back out a fit a new one if it didn't straighten out, which it did in a week or so. But the message is: might be worth your while to ring them first and ask for any soft rubber trim to be removed from bags and left somewhere warm to soften and straighten before they come to fit the screen. Impreza has same design of trim as the forester

Good luck, forester was 10 yrs old and needed a rear drop link ( wasn't too bad but tester is tough) and a split front ballpoint rubber. I need to get under the car more often myself ! First failure points in 10 years, these cars are built tough. Fingers crossed for you

Don't know really but looks like there's a little adapter or as you say joining tube missing? Is it possible for you to get the tube and cover from the other side of the car out just a little and see if the fittings in the cover are the same as the one that you've just bought, or see what is needed to join the 2parts together? Looks like there's maybe a little stopper or plug needed to cap the end of the tube and at the same time slot into the round hole in the cover? Just like drum brakes before mobile phones/ digital cameras came along - always take one apart so the other one is left as a good example of how to put them back together again ! Hope you enjoy the car, that engine is said to be a good smooth one.

Welcome, clean looking car and good to see another GX owner along

See march 7th last year under general subaru topics, was covered well there. Not sure how to cut/ paste the info into here though: Mark Harris posted this in the thread: I won't comment on the basics of turbochargers in case you don't know how to suck eggs, but the compressor pull air through and if you get a blockage, you get back pressure developing which stalls the compresor increasing the drag just at the point where the drive force of exhaust gas decreases rapidly. As you lift off the throttle the turbo can go from 50,000rpm or more to 10,000rpm in an instant due to this, and for this reason dump valves are fitted to relieve the back pressure and the turbo then slows much more slowly. It doesn't matter if they are the standard re-circulating type or the noisy Chav variety, both work the same. The drive from the exhaust has still ceased and the turbo still slows a lot. Once you go back on the gas the flow to the turbine comes back and it will accelerate. The purpose of the anti-lag is simple. By over fuelling on the overrun, the neat fuel is injected very late in the cycle as the exhaust valve is open and it will ignite and burn out of the engine increasing pressure on the turbine inlet. Hence the flame and baap! sounds. It doesn't do the fuel economy much good, neither does it lend itself to long life exhaust valves and seats either. Let's just assume you've de-catted already, because Anti-lag will do it for you in quick order if you haven't! Fine on a Rally engine, just a bit silly for a road car... 0 Mark Isle of Man

Prevention is better than cure! I use one of the cheap foil/plastic screen covers from Aldi, Nipped under passenger door/window one side and under wipers in parked vertical position on other side. Works a treat unless it's howling a hoolie. (Geordie word)

Ha. Davy WRX - Gets the vote for Funniest post for weeks

It's on bbc I player now as well.

Ya learnin scottish noo?

Agree with advice above, often wondered if painted calipers would be enough to void the policy, under the clause of "anything that changes the appearance" of the vehicle? But here's another little story: Not so easy to talk to insurance company when their call centre is based in India or the like! I declared non std alloys ages ago for 20 or so quid a year extra on the policy BUT the alloys aren't covered because they're non standard even though I am paying extra, and they'd be cheaper to replace than new originals. But when I called a little while ago to see about a (considerably cheaper than a genuine subaru) stainless exhaust, the policy was going to cost 30 quid or so extra, a"modified exhaust" wouldn't itself be covered but took me at least 5 mins explaining that it was just an enquiry, I didn't have a "modified " exhaust fitted yet, so please don't charge me for it. How on earth am I going to ask for clarification on other details? Mudflaps? Makes me think maybe trying a specialist insurer next time?

If you are, or know, a Costco member and have one of these warehouses nearby, they do 20 litre drums of Chevron 5w 30 synthetic for just over 40 quid. Worth looking at if you change oil regularly and would be happy with the 5w30.

Bit of waxoyl around the accessible edges of the wings will keep the tin worm away a bit longer, Or take headlights and arch liners out or use a spray tube if you want to do it properly. It works.

You can just about see my forester, 2003 but still going well, in the background, as well as the Impreza GX, behind my lads new car that I use now and then when he's working abroad, wouldn't buy one myself but the 3litre turbo diesel goes well ( in the dry at least ). Will get some pics up of forester full of logs and tree trunks or pulling the boat sometime. Forester is in my opinion about the best all round multiple purpose car ever and can be quite quick especially on damp A and B roads

Welcome, hope you can add to our learning or learn something yourself, if not just have fun with the car! Good to see pics.

May be of interest to someone? In Kawasaki 1980s green as well http://www.gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-motorbikes/subaru-impreza-wrx-replica-4x4-winter-car-spares-or-repair/1036253464#photo-content

I would always recommend buying a big tin of black waxoyl, getting either end of car up on ramps and going over all protruding bolts, nuts, arms, dampers, seams, brackets and edges ( like wheel arch edges and under the rear bumper etc) with heated waxoyl and an old paintbrush. Also definitely front lower arms beams and cross members and sump. Do it yourself, put it on thinly but regular like once a year at least, and it doesn't half keep the surface rust away. The pressure spray equipment for waxoyl can be used for inside box sections and beams etc but to be honest I don't think there's many hollow sections at risk on imprezas, most appear sealed up well. Personally believe the regular DIY approach with waxoyl although messy, is as good if not better than a professional " underseal"

Very neat and clean and tidy

Welcome back. Sure it will be worth the 20 quid for joining up especially if you've any questions. If not maybe you can help others. Any pics are good, any scoobs are good!