patsy

Yeah, not made my mind up on what to do. I see your point, might well be intouch to order one from your friend. Still waiting on a reply from the seller first. Thanks Gus

Nice one. It'll be good to see how you and the motor get on man. Good luck. Ryan

I actually dug out my old original dp, cat pipe and centre section. They matched up with my existing setup and just through up the same length problem as this decat I'm trying to fit! I've pm'd the guy I bought it from and asked what exhaust parts he had bolted together to make up the system on his WR1. Same old saying comes to mind- s**t happens. Spent a rare day off work stripping an exhaust, fitting the new parts half up, stripping off and fitting the original back on anyways! Good practice if anything. Plenty copper grease on all bolts, so next time should be easier. Time will tell, might see if I can get the decat dp cut and welded to proper length? Cheers man Ryan

Here are a couple quick snaps......... http://i741.photobucket.com/albums/xx59/Ip...50/DSCF0981.jpg http://i741.photobucket.com/albums/xx59/Ip...50/DSCF0978.jpg Hope these help. Ryan

The decat dp I'm trying to replace my prodrive dp with is a 3" bellmouth wolfrace one. I'm going to try popping out and taking a couple pics. Then come back in and try learning how to get them on to here for all to see?!!

My existing exhaust setup went from turbo--- 02 sti prodrive dp---then 3rd cat delete pipe---to un-resonated mid section---back box. When I line my prodrive dp and 3rd cat delete pipe next to the one piece dp I'm trying to fit, the bends, bracket and rear sensor hole on them match and are identically shaped. But the the final length of the decat stops a few inches before the prodive setup. Could it be that I've been sold a classic downpipe? Ta

Am I right in thinking that the WR1 only came as a newage limited edition? I bought a decat downpipe from a wr1 owner that was breaking his motor. But, after much sweat and toil in the drive to remove my 2002 wrx's downpipe and then find out that on slipping the decat dp on the turbo studs, the bloody thing is like 3 inches or so short of the mid section! Can someone set me straight on my problem? Cheers Ryan

Hope the damage wasn't too bad? Stevie mentioned it the other day when I was out at his bit. I was being nosy and asking if it had been mapped again for full boost. So what do I have to do to get a run in her Chris? Steve rekons I should be asking...

Sorry for jumping in your thread, but I have a plate I want to sell in the near future. I'm also seaking a ball park figure so I don't advertise it too low or too high. Plate is 'D16 JEF'. Ta

Also done...

I'd maybe be interested in a price for a snake head decat dp. Do they have to fit it, or can they supply the part so I can fit it myself? Ta

Think Stevie at SW motorsport makes a similar manifold? Don't quote me on that, someone else might be able to confirm my thoughts...

Are their decat down pipes and front mounts any good. Their prices seem a little cheaper than some.

When I leave my two dogs in the car I press my fob before switching of the engine and the led next to the clock blinks once. Then when everyone is out I press the fob again to lock the car as usual. The hazards should flash 8 times instead of the normal 4. This means the interior sensors are off, but I think the alarm still goes off if doors are opened and immobiliser is still armed as normal too. This is the procedure on mine, a 2002, not sure if yours will be the same. Worth a bash though...

Back in the summer there I fitted an alk, drop links, roll centre adjustment kit(whiteline parts), front rear strut braces and some bc coilovers. All in all the car feels much better through the bends and with the dampers set to soft the comfert is much the same as the standard setup to be honest. Only the bigger pot holes catch me out, speed bumps etc. are fine. Cabin noise is the only noticeable down side! I have an 02 wrx wagon. When I ordered my alk I went for the 'comfort' version, it does come in different versions I think?

I'll see how it goes tomorrow, I'll try giving her a few on/off ignitions and also try disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes. Thanks for just now, if it doesn't get any better by tomorrow I'll be back asking for more thoughts... Ryan

Never had that before myself. How long does your light stay on for? I do have base mods, decat up pipe and mid pipe, prodrive sports cat dp etc... After my second remap one of the sensors in the exhaust went. Think it was in the uppipe? This was fixed by using Mr. Forrest's resistor method. That was over a year ago, could it be something to do with that?

Drove to work in the normal busy traffic this morning. Just under a half hour drive. All was well when I parked my car in the yard. But on jumping back in her at 4pm, my CEL light was on when I first started her and stayed on all the way home and down to pick the boy up from nursery. This was an hours worth of driving with a few on and off stops. What kind of fault would cause the light to come on from starting, but not on before I switched her off this morning?

Mine done this a while back. On second it was working fine and next it had no boost at all. Can you hear it spooling up or what? Checked the wee cir clip that holds the actuator arm? My problem turned out to be that my decat flexi joint up-pipe had giving up and fed itself to my turbo!

Yes, only probs with the drivers side. Passangers side seemed to dial to within his settings. I don't know alot about the geometry setup process personally, I was just watching as the computer screen turned from red to green with various beeps etc. But the drivers rear would not adjust anywhere near! If I stand back and look at the wheels/tyres I can see the drivers side could do with tipping in a bit on the top likes, even a little difference in the tyre wear. If camber bolts would sort this I don't know? The operator reckons she's been heavily kerbed or such in the past and the hub has been damaged.... I don't know, do I spend money and time changing my hub or try camber bolts? Wish someone had a magic wand to pinpoint the part needed, save on the nippy head side of things.

Thanks for the answers people. I'll give both the breakers a try. The problem is lack of adjustment, wont go anywhere near where needed. Lasers were fixed to the alloys. The wheel is not buckled as far as I'm able to tell. The wee place at Sighthill in Edinburgh that was setting it up, can't remember the name just now!

Yeah mate, got one reply from several emails to scooby breakers. It was £130+vat and £20 postage. So gave that a miss. Should source one a little cheaper than that hopefully!

I need a drivers side rear hub assembly. To cut a long story short... Fitted coilovers, a few whiteline parts etc. Took her for geometry setup and couldn't get this wheel to correct settings. So it turns out my hub assembly is no true! Does anyone know what other years and model of Impreza/Scooby have the same hub assembly? Just so I can broading my search for one. My car is a 2002 wrx, wagon. Thanks

I'm sure the y- pipe from turbo to intercooler should say prodrive on it (mine does), maybe even be blue in colour? The standard (non ppp) is a hard black plastic effort. Hope this helps and isn't incorrect someone else will know...

Anyone got a n/s wrx 4 pot? See my post in wanted section.....