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Wow this is better than the banter on my project thread

Plan ahead as it will prob fail an MOT as the movement can normally be felt.

Greasing the struts doesnt work. It will help for about 1-2 weeks then the knock will come back, its wear in struts. The only thing worth checking is that there is no wear in the rear top mounts and that everything is tight at the top mount.

A cosworth belt on a road car running almost normal power is not worth it, a gates belt is more than adequate.

The fact that it is an import does reduce its value and can in some cases increase insurance costs. As Grieg mentioned above there are also some items that are standard on UK cars that are not on the imports.

Ciaran you may have some issues with that exhaust location depending on what you are looking to use the car for.

This was only a matter of time, I thought every time I went down that road that it was ripe for an easy money generation trap.

20G is an awesome turbo on a road car although you will be entering the upper limits of your gearbox. I personally would not go the ported standard headers route you will regret not fitting a decent set of tubular headers if you do.

I have a set of Rota Torques which have survived the Stevenson test so no worries here.

why not see what it costs to activate the tracker and what it costs monthly for the tracker. You can then work out if its worth having the tracker activated to get the reduced premium, you might end up paying about the same both ways but have the advantage of an active tracker.

As dark says worth a try, its the most commonly fitted tracker.

Most trackers wont transfer the lifetime subscription to the new owner. Worth contacting them and asking otherwise you will be around £11 a month for it.

What areas does he cover and price to fit 4 tyres and balance?

mmm water pump?

Have a look at the end tanks on the radiator, they are plastic and known to burst. Other than that run the car get it hot and start searching.

Lol you wouldnt have let me down coz I didnt pursue it as it wasnt right for me, good luck for the weekend tho.

Looked at your audi a few times when you put it up for sale a while back, had tow car written all over it, but mileage put me off a little and didnt want to take the hit on my blobeye wrx.

Agree that wasnt Simon.

If you have a ramp changing the clutch is a doddle getting the box back in on your back with the car on axle stands is a pain, notice they didnt show him fiddling with the clutch fork on refit . Bet the guy that bought the car went straight home and pulled the stripes off.

Its not the heat shields that catch on the subframe its the upper flange as it comes down through the channel in the subframe. Its easier to remove the headers at the heads.

You need to remove the headers first, then disconnect the nuts that connect your engine mounts to the subframe and jack the engine a little bit just to give you enough room to bring the uppipe down past the subframe, dont forget to remove your pitch stop as well.

Just seen this, I like the look of the wide body a lot you could probably give craig some tips

Sell everything non standard and put the car back to standard and trade it in.

Of all the cars there at that price point you would be better with the white ver 3 STI but even it is way to expensive.

Nice write up Grant and some amazing efforts have been put in by you and Imy for the Vision charity. Not good ref your health hopefully your positive attitude will see you through the other side sharpish. Will send you a PM tomorrow with some info that may help ref your work. Wish you had PM'd me before ref this as I did mention to you before about certain things you could do but these may stil be an option for you. Talk soon