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I would recommend Performance Friction Z compond, these are about the best all round pad for Brembo's. I use these on the race RA and my road car and I have tried several other makes and componds and nothing has come close for all round performance. As stated above Alyn at AS performance always has good deals on them if you mention SIDC

Cmon now Chris I cant give everything away

Neil the 20G was John's I hade relocated it for the few races I competed in during 2009, it waa returned to John shortly after. The 20G on a 2.5 is a very very good set up and would definately make a very quick road car.

Thanks Callum this is always an intersting time of year and in many ways the most important as decisions made now are often critical.

Close Chris but not correct

Well time for another update. Back from Athens on Tue and thats the contract eneded over there so back to some form of normality. Starting to go through the stuff that has arrived while i have been away and its like christmas. Opened a box and found this bad boy all nicely wrapped up Few other suspension and general parts still to go through

Did you not post about this before? I suggested then that if the normal indicators and hazards are working fine and the sticking only occurs with the alarm lock/unlock then you have an issue with the alarm unit output, as the above post suggests arm/disarm the alrm so that the indicators stick on then tap the alarm unit with the handle of a screw driver this, if your lucky, will unstick the relay within the alarm unit and prove where your fault lies.

last of the Blobeye's

Should have added I got the replacements from Camskill cheapest I could find.

I have KYB Ultra's on my 55 plate WRX and am pretty happy with them. I also have prodrive Sprinhgs and it is firmer than standard but not uncomfortable. I have to admit that I have just replaced the rear two because they were knocking but they had been on the car for 2 years and i bought them 2nd hand and they had been on the other lads car for just short of 2 years so all in all around 4 years use before failure.

If your going to have one made to suit I would also recommend Meercat, they are first rate and have done all my intercooler pipework, made my rotated up pipe and downpipe and wastegate take off and they are very reasonable on price. C+C are also excellent but more expensive.

I repacked mine with really high quality grease made for aircraft landing gear shock struts. It fixed the problem for 2 weeks and then came back so to be honest its not a long term fix. Has anyone taken this to trading standards as a set of shocks that lasts for 6000 miles is "not fit for purpose". When I last replaced mine I also found play in the LH rear top mount which would have added to the knocking. I would have went to trading standards but when my 2nd set went I was out of warranty.

Scott really good season for you this year I have also heard all about corum and the oil px gauge does not make good viewing, we get awy with it on our short sprints and hill climbs bit TA is unforgiving. Hopefully there isnt to much damage and good luck with what ever you decide for next year

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SUBARU-IMPREZA-2-5-WRX-MANUAL-GEARBOX-codeTY754VG7AA-/140467387331?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20b4823bc3 You might be able to negotiate this down a bit as they dont really sell due to the different clutch set up. Check your code though as there ar 2 different codes on the Hawkeye WRX boxes.

A spring washer would definately help but I wouldnt locktite a caliper bolt that screws into an alloy caliper your asking for issues when you try and remove the bolts if the calipers need to come off. I personally have never had a caliper bolt come loose. When you checked the car was the bolt loose in the caliper or did the caliper snap across the bolt mounting flange. If as I suspect the caliper has snapped across the bolt hole in the caliper I would be inclined to think that either there has been a flaw in the material or the caliper has been over tightened in the past causing stress to the mounting flange. Any chance of a warranty claim from compbrake?

Thats really not a good scenario Chris glad there wasnt any more damage what calipers are on the front?

Mark if you go down the 6 speed route you will need to change the rear diff as well. The rear diff in your car will probably be a 4.11 R160. If you go down the 6 speed route you will need the 6 speed box, gear shift and linkage, prop and a matching R160 rear diff. If you buy a UK 6 speed you will be ok as there are plenty options for 3.54 R160 rear diffs to match the UK 6 speeds but if you get a JDM box with a 3.9 rear diff you will struggle to find a R160 3.9 diff so you need to factor all that in.

Mark what is the code of your box? The hawkeye WRX had the clutch set up changed from the previous set ups which makes the Hawkeye WRX boxes very cheap. You might be surprised how little you could pick one up for, 100-150 is possible which would make for a cheap fix. These boxes are uprated from the previous 754 boxes and will handle more torque.

Thanks Steven would be good to see you up here, hopefully I will be down your direction next year

Take the hint

I Think you have a persecution complex that you really need to get over now start your own project thread and stop polluting mine your becoming boring and predictable. You are obviously hurting I defy you to turn up at Doune and drive that hill fast 24 hours after crashing there, your times this year and last year are not startling with a car that should be much faster so stop using all your energy being negative and use it cosnstructively towards improving your own results rather than trawling results from 3 years ago. I have edited the post so that it is 100% correct

Well in the interests of being 100% accurate having made a mistake above I had to trawl back the times for 2008 my first season in a car with standard RA engine and turbo with 270bhp where I was competing against the likes of Donald McCaskil and John St as well as Andrew Scott in his well prepared escort etc. My first outing at Doune wasnt the most successful after crashing into the barriers while trying to keep up with the big boys on my first timed run on the Saturday, thats what happens when you try. The car was a bit of a mess and we had to pull the front end straight with Donald's merc sprinter and then spend a fair number of hours at Stevenson motorsport HQ on the Saturday night rebuilding it and trying to get it as straight as possible for the Sunday. So yes I had forgotten about that but having wrecked the car on the Sat I think it was a fair achievement to even get the car ready and compete again on the Sunday even if i did not do well and finished last behind Donald, John and Andy. The damage etc is detailed on page 2 of the thread. So what i should have said is I have never finished last in any sprint event and have never finished last in a Hillclimb event with a competative car as the car was not running properly on the Sunday and was not straight. I have also not finished last in class in any event that Jac and I have competed head to head. Now hopefully that sorts that

Chris looks good mate glad the gremlins are sorted and you can now enjoy the results

Russell i was lucky to an extent as I could have some say in my dates but it was still a real issue getting the car ready in time with little time at home and also often coming home on a wed night and leaving on a Fri morning for an event. I had to sacrafice some events that i wanted to do in order to do others. This year in particular I could not make either Forrestburn event which meant I could not score in the hills as you have to compete in each event at least once. If you and Chris have longer blocks away it will make it harder but certainly not impossible. Chris why not take your lads with you thats what I do and it works well. The trick with the events up here is to have a car that works as a total package I havnt managed to achieve that yet but I have hopes for next year.

Russell I have spent the last 14 months doing two weeks in athens and 2/3weeks in the uk