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Got a standard set of front struts and springs complete from a blobeye WRX 55 plate removed because the rears were knocking and replaced the full set up front and rears.

Good to see the car starting to progress after some bad luck with the old engine

Will need a mammoth effert from all in the Subaru team given the strength of the EVO team this year but fingers crossed that the guys can put in the performances we have become used to and hopefully they will at least be able to stand up after a night in tent city

Wow awesome results

Good luck to all the Scottish contingent including John St who seems to have escaped a mention.

If budget permits they are, in my opinion the best for all round use

PF Z compound

Cant believe you have given up looking after the car to decorate Pads are an aquired taste and really comes down to budget and usage thats why its best to get advice from suppliers who use various compounds and actually build cars hence my suggestion.

Depends on your current bore and whether it needs bored oversize or has been rebored.

Performance friction Z compond but as John says they are not cheap and it depends what you plan to do with them. looks like your wheels dont agree with your pad choice tho John Give Alyn at AS Performance a ring he will be able to advise on a good choice for your usage and he is difficult to beat on price

When the uppipe is all unbolted remove the gearbox to chasis stabiliser bar and the nuts from both engine mounts to subframe and jack the whole engine up a couple of inches that will alow you to withdraw the uppipe.

Makes a big difference and in my opinion should be the first one to remove. When you remove it there is an EGT sensor there which needs to be removed. Unplug the sensor from the loom and put a 2.2k ohm resistor across the plug on the car side. This fools the ECU into thinking the sensor is still fitted by sending a signal proportional to an average EGT, this stops you getting the associated cel light.

Curious myself but will depend on how things are going with the sprints.

May well be up for this as well.

Nice one - thanks

The only difference in shafts is with the bigger R180 rear dif which was fitted to most type R's and newage STI's. You may not have to change the rear diff but there is no way to help if you dont put up the codes of the two boxes.

Thats the one - thanks

The gearbox fitted will prob be a TY754VN1AA whats the code of the one you have bought? I have a spare TY754VN1AA/2AA gea***t available if that helps at all.

Did anyone get a video of my head to head with Eric's evo?

Its debateable if the premium you pay for the Perrin bars being powder coated is worth it. Why not get the Whiteline bars from Graeme and paint them red, will end up cheaper The perrin drop links on the face of it seem better than the whiteline items as they have spherical bushes but having had them on the RA which does virtually no road miles I found the bearings very quickly siezed so I removed them, I definately wouldnt fit them to a road car in this country.

As mentioned above cracking day and big thanks to all the guys who helped make it such a good day. Thourghly enjoyed the day and enjoyed the head to head with Eric Holmes in his time attack evo, track is looking good for the sprint next weekend.

Think the plan is for the increased downforce at the rear to allow the front end to lift off the ground thereby allowing easy and smooth transition across the rumble strips

Alyn at AS Performance every time, he will talk you through the best option for your needs

wow 1.9 bar of boost coming into the drive must have good brakes

You can use pretty much any lubricant but not a degreaser etc like wd40, as playsatan says he used his vaseline I have used just a little engine oil or 3 in 1 oil its just to make sure the seals slip on easily and dont roll or get knicked on the way into the fuel rails. And no i dont mean some super fast thief comes along and nicks your seals while your not looking although in this case that would explain the problem