arch

Me neither I know who fixes them and some are worse than me

There is a direct flight from Glasgow at 10.40 but not every day, there is def not one on a fri. The edi one is at 8.50 if memory serves me right. The timetable is showing the summer schedule which starts sometime in March.

Thanks for the support it is appreciated. Unfortunately I had an enquiry ref the trumpet even before I advertised it and it is now sold pending payment - sorry.

Right starting to make some progress. Had a list of things to do over the last few days and completed some and failed on others. The ones i failed on are mainly down to parts arriving that turn out not to be correct which is really frustrating. I ordered an turbo oil feed/drain kit and water banjo set from Australia, it finally arrived and surprise surprise its the wrong kit So unable to mount the turbo yet. I also need to arrange some new wastegate springs to match those suggested by Andy F, thanks for the advice as always Andy I did manage to get the new rear diff fitted. So it was out with the old R180 plated diff and in with the new R180 plated diff. Prop also fitted so gear train pretty much finished apart from fluids which I will do later. Also fitted the front hubs back on after they had been down to Alyn at AS Performance to be fixed after a slight mishap with the front driveshafts. All fixed now, cant thank Alyn enough for turning these round so quick and also getting the parts I needed up quick style - top fella thanks Will get the front struts back on tomorrow once the tweaks I need done are completed. I have pulled all the fuel lines out of the car and will redo these tomorrow with new hose which as mentioned previously is far superior to the current hose. I have few new unions just incase but think the current ones will be fine but spares are good and they are shiny so that helps. I have mocked up the inlet pipe to see what angle hose i need to connect to the turbo. I made a few paper templates of various angles to work out what I need so will get that ordered tomorrow. I am using another RCM trumpet which fits into the RCM filter and is the exact diameter of the Garrett so will make fitting easier. Big thanks to Tom Hayes at RCM for the help Pics of the RCM filter and inlet trumpet from last year and the new RCM trumpet. I also fitted the headers and uppipe to enable me to mock up the turbo. I have taken some pics of the rotated kit to show the quality of the finish on the coating which was done by Black Performance really is top quality. Still got a lot to do but gradually ticking things off the list

Seen one of these on these fitted to a car at the Tractive stand at TOTB 2 years ago. It is a quality bit of equipment but has probably been overtaken by the cosworth manifold which is also cheaper.

If your flying down from Glasgow make sure you let me know and I will make sure I dont touch the plane your flying on you might just make it then

Think I would need a head start against these builds

not sure how much i will be at home this summer so my movements will be very limited

Some tidy cars being built up this way at the minute very impressive

As mentioned take the tints off the front windows you will get pulled especially since the whole idea is to make the car an advertisement thereby attracting attention

If you are not going to track the car then its not worth throwing loads of money at the brakes. The standard 4 pots are a capable brake for road use if coupled with a decent pad and disc combination. I used 4 pots on the race RA in the first year I was competing and used a good grooved front disc with Ferodo DS2500 pads all round and the brakes worked very well. DS2500's are around £140 ish for the fronts and a bit less for the rears and discs are fairly cheap prob £80 ish for the front maybe less. Both are a doddle to fit and would take no longer than 1.5 hours all round. I would give Alyn at AS Performance a ring as his prices are as good as you will find anywhere and the service and advice you will get will be second to none. He builds rally cars for a living so he will advise you correctly for your needs and at the worst its the cost of a call to get some advice and ideas. http://asperformance.com/

what craig said

Why would you want to wrap your centre section, theres no need that part of the exhaust is in the airflow and wont cause any harm all you will do is waste money on wrap or coating, you only need to go as far as the bottom bend on the downpipe where it straightens out to run along with the exhaust.

Def looks cracked, get it welded and it should be fine

Can vouch for that all the wrap that was on my Race Ra came from Alyn. Or as an alternative http://www.blackperformance.co.uk/ Just had Stewart do my headers, uppipe, wastegate and downpipe made a cracking job of it and cheaper than you might think

Not many things Alyn cant source at a very good prices, that said I will be accussed of being biased

I have one from a low mileage 2007 STI Spec D if your interested. In fact I have both

This may help

I removed all 3 cats and fitted a prodrive sports cat downpipe and passes mot no problem. The uppipe cat is restrictive and does affect spool. Fit a standard new age STI uppipe which has no cat or a classic standard uppipe without cat they are all the same. You will have to fit a 2.2K ohm resistor across the uppipe EGT sensor plug to remove the cel.

Didnt achieve much yesterday but did manage to attack the rear shocks on the blobeye. The rear KYB Ultra's had started knocking really badly just after christmas so decided to pull them apart and re grease them today. I had a look at this guide http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Kno...ewageRearStruts To be honest its pretty obvious anyway but wanted to check first. You also dont need to remove the top mount just the bottom nut to remove the strut from the body. When i pulled them apart its hard to tell if the grease is breaking down but there did not seem any contamination of the grease which would rule out a scraper seal failure. Anyway after a clean out I re-greased them using aeroshell grease 33. After it was all back together the test drive was silent no knocking what so ever. This does raise a question, since so many of these KYB struts inc standard Subaru items start knocking after a few thousand miles is the issue the quality or spec of the grease they are using as the main strut assembly seems to work consistenly well, the issue seems to be the strut binding in the body due to lubrication issues. Will be interesting to see how the Grease 33 holds up.

Thanks Peter and that wont be a problem as long as I manage to get it out before I go back to Athens in March, April, May ....... Didnt use your downpipe in the end so will get that back across to you prob on Sun evening Hopefully your build is not far from the big switch on

Managed to spend some time on the car today but t turned out to be a frustrating day but achieved a fair bit. I had an issue with the front drive shafts for the Hawkeye 6 speed. The front shafts from the Spec D would not fully engage with the newage 100pcd hubs which resulted in the hub nuts not running up far enough and were infact only on by about 4 threads I initially thought that this might be due to the ABS rings but had my doubts. I decided to remove the spec D shafts and compare them to a normal 5 speed shaft, a 5 speed Hawkeye WRX shaft with the male gearbox ends and lastly the Hawkeye Spec D shafts . It should be clear from the pics what the issue is. The top shaft is the Spec D shaft, then the Hawkeye WRX then the 5 speed at the bottom. All the shafts are identical in overall length hub to gearbox but for some reason the 115 PCD hubs must be machined slightly differently. Pity because the Spec D shafts have a significantly beefier inner outer joint but hey they are now surplus, anyone after a set of Speed D shafts The next job was to fit the 6 speed gearbox mount. This didn't take long and successfully solved the linkage clearance issues I had with the tunnel. I then fitted the gear linkage and Agency Power short shifter. This is where it went wrong. The linkage itself is a pain to fit but once fitted I couldn't select reverse. The lever pulled up and the arm on the gear box moved but it wouldn't engage. I worked out I needed to lengthen the cable but ran out of adjustment. I had to remove the linkage and cut the slot for the reverse cable slider longer towards the bottom of the shifter. With the linkage in again I then managed to get enough adjustment to solve the issue. Word of warning, if you are thinking of buying an agency power short shifter - DONT it doesn't fit properly and will result in 1 hours worth of filing. The other trauma was the set of Perrin 6 Speed shifter bushes that I had just purchased Again they don't fit at all. They are a smaller diameter than the linkage in the Hawkeye 6 speed so the linkage must also have been changed from Blobeye to Hawkeye - good old Subaru you just have to laugh This is a pain as I fitted a similar set to my 5 speed linkage and it made a significant difference to the solidity and feel of the gear change. Last on the list tonight was to open up the new rear diff to inspect it and check the ratio prior to fitting. All looks good and the correct ratio as expected I decided that it would be rude not to give it a quick lick of POR15 before it gets fitted Well all in all achieved a fair bit but not as much as I anticipated. It never ceases to amaze me how many parts I have bought and found they just don't fit properly, you then have to spend ages making them fit where possible

No further forward at the min, work and an exploding fridge water filter resulting in an indoor lake causing me some time issues Hope to get some progress done tomorrow. Work and families are a real distraction, note to self buy lottery tickets more often All the exhaust pipework has now gone out to Stewart Black at http://www.blackperformance.co.uk/ to be ceramic coated. That should work out better and also save me half a day of wrapping and a week of scratching Few more bits arrived from TSL and RCM today so hopefully sort out the rest of the gearbox fit and driveshafts tomorrow. Then if time permits redo all the engine and fuel tank braided lines. I have been unhappy for a while with the quality of the hose I got from Pirtek which has resulted in a couple of fuel leaks so its all coming out to be redone with better quality hose.

mmm not sure your type of engines are quite suitable Neil

Wouldnt be chasing my tail I would be in an institution To be honest I have never chased numbers and have never had a car on a rolling road. I just bolt on what I hope are the right bits in the right order and then hope it all works. Having some knowledge backed up by the advice and help of a few good friends and a LOT of hard work seems to have worked up till now.