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Russel I am using a TY754 box at the minute and had no clearance issues, may be down the make of up-pipe fitted

You may also have to grind a slight bit on the block to accomodate the water pipe on the inboard side of the turbo I did. I also had to modify the actuator bracket slightly as this fouled on my AN right angle fuel connecter at the no.3 cylinder. Other than that it should be a straight fit.

cheers good luck with your build looks like a good start, the only problem is it always grows from what our initial plans are and then the budget goes into over drive

Decided to strip down the gearbox I bought from Galagogsie, it had a whine from the transfer case and it had been diagnosed by Steve Whitson as centre diff bearings - turns out to be spot on diagnosis Stripped it down and found the bearing on the drop gear that engages with the centre diff had a very very worn bearing as can be seen by the amount of movement in the pic, there should be virtually no movement in this at all so fault one. It was actually wobbling around like a good un That lead me to suspect there may well be a problem with the bearing on the centre diff itself. I then carefully removed the centre diff and found that the bearing was indeed well worn in fact I pulled it apart so think this box was removed just in time to stop any furthr damage. I stripped the centre diff for a look and it all seemed fine. This will be an easy fix as I have two spare centre diffs and a variety of drop gears so simple swap over for new parts and job done spare box ready to go.

I havnt actually seen any road works where this car is driven but could make an interesting idea

Well not much to report since Kames I had some issues on the last run with my short shifter which came loose which resulted in a couple of bad gear changes. The fixed portion attached to the gear lever had started migrating up the shaft causing the rod to the gearbox to foul on the tunnel this made it hard to select 3rd. I didnt want to go back to the normal shift as I am convinced this saved time with the changes esp 2nd to 3rd. The solution was to use an M12x1.25 die and thread the whole length of the lever and then lock the mechanism with a nut result not the easiest material to cut a thread on but the result should never come loose. Other than that it was a case of going over everything suspension wise to ensure everything was still tight as Kames was the first outing this year and effectively the cars shake down after being almost totally stripped down again. The adjustable lateral and trailing arms can loosen so I witness marked them so that I would know if one moved, the same with all the camber bolts. - again pics later. The roll bar clamp for my camera has arrived so hopefully get this up and running now. Decided to keep the camera on the dash think it will give me the most feedback as I wasnt happy with the angle it sat on the roll bar. Busy two weeks ahead with the Golspie sprint near Wick this weekend 12th and 13th Sept and Boyndie near Banff the week after. Both long journeys but well worth it as the tracks are superb and also very well run events. It will be the first chance this year to test the car against some of the very quick cars from up north. It will be interesting to see if the set up this year has closed the gap any. I have my doubts as some of the EVO's have certainly moved on such as Donald's evo and also Davie Coutts who is also very quick and i know he has moved his car on a fair bit from last year.

I used to have one fitted and had similar issues I didnt have to slot the holes but it was a tight fit, I loosened the inner ALK bolts right off and the rear attachment to the arm even then it was tight. In the end I removed it as I expected to have to remove the gearbox frequently and didnt want the hassle of a geometry set up each time the box came out as you have to disturb the ALK to remove the brace

Think you need to tidy up the underside it should look like this Good start tho keep the pics coming

Another option which may be as quick but cheaper is to put a post in the scoobynet wanted pages for a bugeye or blobeye WRX rear hub, try and get it complete with the nadbrake shoes it will make fitting a little quicker. It has to be a WRX hub the STI hubs are different. This is a well known and common problem on Impreza's and it very rarely shows up until you have the geometry checked and then find you cannot set the car up properly. Changing the hub is a simple job and takes about 40 mins.

I am pretty certain all the bugeye and blobeye WRX rear hubs are the same. I picked up some hubs from Impreza breakers ltd and they were pretty reliable I have had a few bits and pieces from them and they seem pretty good and always seem to have a fair amount of newish cars breaking. website www.imprezabreakers.co.uk 01508 558880 or do an ebay search for rear hubs

Pretty sur all the VN boxes are 3.54 rear diff. In that case you would be best looking for a TY754VN1AA, TY754VN2AA or TY754VN5AA.

Jac you could start and arguement in an empty house. I merely pointed out that you implied you made a 10sec improvement as a direct result of a geometry change. That is not the case, the case is the improvement was down to :- a)The experience you have gained over the season on how to drive the car and learning how far you can push it. b)Experience of how to tackle Kames. Changes to the geometry would result in time improvements which are a fraction of 10 secs. If you care to read all the post I also mentioned Graham at Whiteline, Duncan at Hypertech and Kenny Brown all as alternatives to Progrip. Your reasons for posting were totally different from mine. You have a sponsorship arrangement with Graham and as such are trying to hard to sell his services to recompense for his time and expense on your car. I have no such arrangement with Progrip, I pay the same cost as everyone else and am happy with that arrangement.

Wasnt that in practice though

Dont remember that

Jac I find it hard to believe that you took 10secs off a lap time at Kames purely on a geometry change, unless your car was so badly set up that it was pointing in all directions, which I also doubt. John at Progrip's business is is 99% alignment and handling thats why most dealers in the area use him. His prices are also very reasonable for the service provided. I have not had any experience of the other guys, so cannot comment, but plenty others have been more than happy with the service of the rest of those mentioned. I would add that I am totally unbiased as I have no sponsorship or other ties with Progrip other than thats who I use to set up my race car and road car, Jac cannot be as impartial. There are lots of people in this area that can provide this service and are more than just competant. Kenny Brown in Hillington is another, Duncan at Hypertech as already mentioned and Graham at Whiteline. It comes down to who you feel comfortable with and cost. The average road car doesnt need any experiments carried out on it, the settings to make a road Impreza handle well, while still retaining reasonable tyre wear are hardly rocket science. The good thing is that there are so many choices in this area all of which will provide a good service.

Would think if you get down to 1100kg you will have done well Wouldnt think my car would be the best to use as an example though as mine is pretty standard apart from some interior trim and seats none of which weigh massive amounts.

John at Progrip has them on the shelf If your phoning to book just mention it to him that way you wont have to buy any unless you need them and from memory, but dont quote me, I think the set John put in mine ages ago were only around £15 they were cheap anyway and were whiteline

Wise decision

Take it so someone who has experience of these cars and knows what they are talking about

Why did you not ask for camber adjustable rear top mounts the difference in cost is negligable and gives you more flexability. John will have camber bolts in stock anyway he always has them. The car should have one fitted as standard on each hub, whether you eed more will be determined by what settings you want.

Pity lad a t work just sold his Elise and he had spent **** loads on it and it was in your price range

If you are going to drive to Aberdeen why not take the shorter journey down to Progrip in Bonneybridge he sets up my car and a good few others and knows his way round the Impreza, probabaly about 40 mins from Dundee. http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?hl=en&re...055445796004956

Carl is a perfectionist so you wont go wrong with anything he has had his mits on

Go to your local kwik fit or tyre/exhaust centre you may well get them there

Absolute nonsense