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As frank says give Alyn at ASP a phone. I used an exeedy 6 puck paddle clutch last year on the RA which was a 330ish bhp and it coped no problem with constant launches using sticky tyres. Alyn will be able to advise you on best options for your use and torque levels.

I done this recently with the RA, John and i used 12 litres of pertol idling the car over very short periods while trying to sort an issue. I immeditaley changed the oil and filter with a cheap oil. Then ran the car for a few miles then changed the oil and filter again this time puting Motul back in. If like mine, the car was run without any load i.e idling, then the chances of any issues are vastly reduced. The smell of pertol was very strong in my oil which was nice considering it had done 0 miles since an oil change Motul 300v ouch There is a risk with the extent I had that you can wash the bores and shells etc. No need to change the plugs etc just clean them up. There is no harm in turning the engine over with the plugs removed after changing the oil just to check there are no oil px issues but that would be unlikely.

Should also be making first apearance both days better get them new tyres sorted Jac

!00% correct craig mine is tested as a MY92 no emissions test - result

oops double post

I would have phoned you jac but for some reason I thought you were running 17's. Result anyway they were cheap tho as I said I would have had them if they were 17's

Just been up at Jim Dickson's in Cumbernauld getting some tyres for the wifes car and "young" Jim mentioned he had a set of 4 new 235x40x18 Toyo R888's that a customer ordered and never came back for he is looking to ofload them. So def a chance of a bargain for someone, I would have had them myself if they were 17's

In my opinion iif the engine work and spec is up to standard then its a cheap car for soemone who doesnt want to source the parts and do the work themself. Wish i had only spent £10k on my "K" reg RA

20G .

Totally agree with Dave my RA is only a WRX and it turned out pretty well and there was another red WRX RA that used to frequent tracks around these parts that was fairly quick . Like Dave says its what you do with the basic car that determines the outcome. The DCCD is a useful tool in the right hands but how many people with this fitted to their road car actually use it to its fullest capabilities, not many I would think. To get the best out of it you need a proper controller not just the thumb wheel gimmick that comes as standard.

Still some sound proofing still in the boot and in on the inside tut tut

C+C do some nice work I have had the centre section of the race car modded there and the work is first class. I have also had the decat pipe on my road car done and the intercooler pipework on the race car done at Meercat and there work is also first class and there prices are very reasonable.

If you are getting it cheap you should take it. It may not add any performance but will add protection and will be a mod in place for when you decide to increase your power.

A subaru one

Grieg I have to be honest I really cant think of anything you could do to help me ! But just for you I will update the thread later once I have removed the gearbox again today. Just a quick update for now. Things were starting to look good the car was pretty much finished and was idling fine. The MOT was done and the geometry was set up to pretty much what I needed at this stage. Unfortunately Andy F was off on holiday so I couldnt get it mapped in time for Boyndie. But desperate to get the car out Andy offered some advice which was greatly appreciated and Simon (Jolly Green Monster) also offered to help out, thanks Simon really appreciate the help . Armed with the info required, John's wide band set up, data log software and a few other Gizmo's, John and I decided to map the car ourselves. We took the car out on Tue using a base map and proceded to tweek things to get the fueling right. The car felt good and really pulled hard through the gears. It felt SIGNIFICANTLY quicker than last year. Just when things were looking good for Boyndie disaster struck I took 5th gear after a hard run through 2nd and 3rd and the gearbox stuck in 5th lucky white heather . We eventually got it into neutral, initially I had thought it may be an issue with the short shifter and bushes that were fitted but it happened again, the gear change although very tight was not smooth at all. Unfortunately I had to go down to Exeter to work for a couple of days which gave me no time to sort it before Boyndie. The only viable option was to withdraw from Boyndie, totally gutted about that, and remove the gearbox and see whats went wrong. So the gearbox will be out in a few hours and I will start to strip it down to see what can be done. The hope is to get the car out for Kames on the 1st Aug although there really is nothing to aim at now as there are not enough events left to score any points worth talking about so the rest of this year will be about tweeking the handling so that the chassis at least is where i want it for next year.

Thats exactly it Grieg I have finally been rumbled I am scared of Jac and Don and am hiding this year But be assured i value your input

I wouldnt use drilled discs. For a road car on Brembo set up then I would go for Performance Friction Z compound pads every day. If the discs are not warped then put some PF pads on and give the discs a good clean with a green pad before fitment of new pads to remove any brake deposits coating the surface of the disc.

Result

Did everyone get sorted

Thanks Jim must admit i have a lot of built up frustration itching to get out

Well eventually making some progress after a lot of head scratching and some rewiring and some tweeks on John's laptop the car now runs and doesnt seem to have wheels that would make Charles Fandango jealous, for all you youngsters ask your dad he will explain . I have sorted the suspension issues I had by changing the coilovers to an inverted set up which has made all the difference. The car now has clearance all round and visible negative camber and there is still clearance to adjust the camber more via the bolts if required without having to widen the track again. I finally decided to sort the holes in the floor left by the grommets which came away when I removed the underseal last year. Was going to just use new rubber grommets but struggled to find any the right size at a reasonable price so just shaped and rivetted some bits of ally, aircraft grade obviously, and sealed with seam sealer - sorted. I seem to have created a hoste of wiring issues as a result of removing the dash, most of them minor and only really MOT issues but since the MOT has expired they needed fixed. One of them was the hazards only working on the RH side but all indicators working properly. It wasnt hard to work out what the fault was but took ages finding the plug breaks under the dash and then tracing the fault. This one turned out to be a broken wire at some point between the hazard switch and the plug break next to the fuse box. Continuity check proved the wire open cct, New wire spliced in problem sorted - 4 hours later tho . most of the other problems I had were poor connections at plug breaks I had disturbed and most only required a clean with contact cleaner and the plugs reseated. There just seemed to be a raft of niggling issues that seem to run away with silly amounts of time but managed to get the car MOT'd today with only an advisory for all 4 tyres being near the limit. Not surprised since I forgot to put the road wheels on and went with the Khumo's on oops. The guy who MOT'd it was hilarious he just kept saying "I am wasting my time everything is new even the bolts are new, the underside of this is cleaner than our canteen table" was another cracker, probably true tho it was probably the quickest MOT he has ever done Managed to get some pics outside today as well which was nice instead of trying to take pics in the garage where space is restricted. Some of the finished engine set up And one showing my new lightweight windscreen washer bottle, its actually a pish sample bottle adapted to fit And one of the Carl Davey's cracking alternator bracket set up, it is a really nice piece of engineering, thanks Carl I am still using the tank from last year which I have put back in but it will be replaced before the Sprint at Boyndie. Some of the inside which is a vast improvement from last year. Its off to John at Progrip tomorrow to have the Geometry set up again which hopefully wont through up any more issues. After that its just the small matter of getting it mapped.

This is still running guys so anyone interested just give Alyn a ring at AS Performance for the price for your partcular set up

Pretty sure you cant get the PF pads for the newage WRX 4 and 2 pots

Guys goat sent to all on the list.

Jac may have beaten some of my times from last year but if the car ever runs it wont be the same item as last year Think Jac's car will need a serious diet to utilise all them BHP/Tq's, and big turbo's dont make quick cars in every scenario. Think BHP/Tonne springs to mind That said I currently have 000 BHP/Tonne but it looks nice